fx2004j
New member
on my truck i replaced the electrical gauge with a Mechanical autometer gauge and i still am not getting a reading . can i please get some help.
cooling never gets hot
- Thread starter fx2004j
- Start date
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Broncobill78
New member
Need more info Chief, where did you plumb in the sending unit ? Was the electrical gauge working before you replaced it ? Any chance the electrical was dead so you replaced it with a mechanical but used the same sender ? If the mechanical came with it's own sender where did you sink it ?
terprugr
New member
need more info - is there a thermostat installed or is the coolant always flowing free. Is teh block getting hot. Do you live in the antarctic by any chance?
bassplayer07
Member
Well if the gauge worked before and just never got into the normal range then I had this same issue. Just drain some coolant out of the radiator, pull the connection on the engine, and replace the thermostat. Works just fine for me now. Hope that helps.
Broncobill78
New member
Man, I gotta admit you're losing me. DID the gauge work before or didn't it ? Did it always read low so you replaced it and now it still reads low ? Are you saying that when you drain coolant, yank an engine connector & then replace the T-stat it works fine ? Is it working just fine for you *right now* or isn't it ?. Does it work OK for awhile & then quits working and then you drain some coolant, pull *some* connection on the engine & then replace the T-stat & then it STARTS working again only to repeat the cycle ? I'm really lost here. Help me help you. Just what connector are you yanking on ? Just *what* does your mechanical gauge read ? How many T-stats have you gone thru & just WHAT temp T-stat are you buying ?
fx2004j
New member
your lost i am more lost . i changed the t-stat the electrical gauge never worked. so i went mechincal figuring that was the problem sill no reading put it in the intake were it goes. still nothing i never had a problem like this .
Seabronc
New member
Did you ever replace the sender unit on the electrical gauge? If so, did you use any thing like Teflon on the threads? Do you have any other gauges that don't work? I'm ignoring the mechanical one since it is easy to break the capillary tube which is perhaps why it is not working.
Good luck,
>-
Good luck,
>-fx2004j
New member
what is the capillary tube . and no i never did replace the sender went straight to the mechanical.Did you ever replace the sender unit on the electrical gauge? If so, did you use any thing like Teflon on the threads? Do you have any other gauges that don't work? I'm ignoring the mechanical one since it is easy to break the capillary tube which is perhaps why it is not working.
Good luck,
bassplayer07
Member
The gauge DID work before. It always read low BEFORE I changed out the T-stat. Now that I have changed out the T-stat everything has worked just fine since. The gauge works properly. I don't know all the names of the parts. Sorry. It's a connection on the front of the engine. There is a hose coming from the radiator to the engine. Underneath of that is where I found the T-stat. I tried a T-stat rated at 170 degrees and it didn't work. I went to Ford and they told me the direct replacement. I don't remember exactly what the temp rating is. I think it's about 190 degrees but don't quote me on it.
fx2004j
New member
i just replaced the sender and still nothing .only thing left is the radiator. the t-stat was a 190 degree.
Seabronc
New member
The capilary tube on the mechanical gauge is that long coper tube from the gauge to the engine. It can not be disconnected from the gauge while installing and must be threaded through a hole in the fire-wall, it is easily kinked so any sharp bend will usually destroy it.
As far as the sender for the gauge, was that the one just behind the distributor?
Also, you must not use any Teflon on it. The threads must make contact with the intake manifold. You must also have a good ground for both the instrument panel and the engine plus a strap from the manifold to the fire-wall.
There are two connector the wire goes through that may be corroded as well as the contacts on the back of the instrument panel. Taking them apart, cleaning them and reassembling with dielectric grease would be a good thing to do. The wire that goes to the gauge is the red with white hash marks on it.
What about other gauges?
Is there any thing else that doesn't work on the instrument panel?
Good luck,
>-
As far as the sender for the gauge, was that the one just behind the distributor?
Also, you must not use any Teflon on it. The threads must make contact with the intake manifold. You must also have a good ground for both the instrument panel and the engine plus a strap from the manifold to the fire-wall.
There are two connector the wire goes through that may be corroded as well as the contacts on the back of the instrument panel. Taking them apart, cleaning them and reassembling with dielectric grease would be a good thing to do. The wire that goes to the gauge is the red with white hash marks on it.
What about other gauges?
Is there any thing else that doesn't work on the instrument panel?
Good luck,
>-fx2004j
New member
everything on the instrument panel works just not the temp gauge.now my back window window motor went out if its not one thing its another. thanks guys for your help. joe
As far as the sender for the gauge, was that the one just behind the distributor?
Also, you must not use any Teflon on it. The threads must make contact with the intake manifold. You must also have a good ground for both the instrument panel and the engine plus a strap from the manifold to the fire-wall.
There are two connector the wire goes through that may be corroded as well as the contacts on the back of the instrument panel. Taking them apart, cleaning them and reassembling with dielectric grease would be a good thing to do. The wire that goes to the gauge is the red with white hash marks on it.
What about other gauges?
Is there any thing else that doesn't work on the instrument panel?
Good luck,
>-
As far as the sender for the gauge, was that the one just behind the distributor?
Also, you must not use any Teflon on it. The threads must make contact with the intake manifold. You must also have a good ground for both the instrument panel and the engine plus a strap from the manifold to the fire-wall.
There are two connector the wire goes through that may be corroded as well as the contacts on the back of the instrument panel. Taking them apart, cleaning them and reassembling with dielectric grease would be a good thing to do. The wire that goes to the gauge is the red with white hash marks on it.
What about other gauges?
Is there any thing else that doesn't work on the instrument panel?
Good luck,
>-
