sliverbronco
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when i take off from a dead stop i hear and feel a clunk sound from somewhere along the driveshaft near the rear axle. anyone have any ideas what this might be? thanks.
clunk sound??
- Thread starter sliverbronco
- Start date
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MacDaddy
New member
Sounds like it could be your U joints or maybe even the crush sleeve in your rear end. U- joints def #1 suspect. Good luck bud.
Ya.., what Mac said...,
And it could be the famous "Bronco clunk"... which is actually "axle wrap".
The whole axle tries to rotate on launch & stopping. Some times it's a bind in the dr. shaft slip joint (then pops loose on takeoff) ....sometimes it's the springs binding.
This prob. is solved by traction bars on cars runn'n at the drag strip.
They work well on 4x4's as well....as do dual shocks.
A lift will sometimes amplify this prob.
And it could be the famous "Bronco clunk"... which is actually "axle wrap".
The whole axle tries to rotate on launch & stopping. Some times it's a bind in the dr. shaft slip joint (then pops loose on takeoff) ....sometimes it's the springs binding.
This prob. is solved by traction bars on cars runn'n at the drag strip.
They work well on 4x4's as well....as do dual shocks.
A lift will sometimes amplify this prob.
Seabronc
New member
I have a similar problem and believe it to be in the transmission failing to downshift to 1st when I stop. I checked fluid level last week and found it down about a quart. Filled it and haven't noticed it since. It was worse when it was cold out. Actually, to me it felt like the rear brakes were sticking for a second and then let loose.
Good luck,
>-
Good luck,
>-
Last edited by a moderator:
yo,
As the guys advised;
From Ford, 96 Bronco Workshop Manual
The Bronco rear driveshaft is of the double Cardan type which incorporates two universal joints, a driveshaft centering socket yoke (4782), and a driveshaft center yoke (4784) at the transfer case end of each shaft. A single universal joint is used at the axle end of the driveshaft.
Rear Driveshaft and Coupling Shaft, Bronco
Item Part Number Description
1 4635 Universal Joint Kit
2 — Bearing (Part of 4635)
3 — Snap Ring (Part of 4635)
4 — Seal (Part of 4635)
5 — Spider (Part of 4635)
6 — Splined Stub Shaft
(Part of 4602)
7 4421 Slip Yoke Boot
8 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke
9 — Boot Groove (Part of 4841)
10 4K227 Large Clamp
11 4K227 Small Clamp
12 4602 Driveshaft
13 — Front Driveshaft Yoke
(Part of 4602)
Clunk, Driveshaft in a 96; "...could be a few things..
U-joints going out on the driveshaft,
slip shaft needs greasing
or 3rd member is worn and loose.
get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the shaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all;
than grease your slip-joint and go from there
by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong); "...When you check the u-joints as Spiked described, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad..."
Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) & by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)
To grease slip yoke; cut the boot retaining ring clips
slide the boot over the shaft. grease splines & pull boot back over & use zip ties to hold boot in-place.
This is how FORD describes it;
cut the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamps (4K227) with sidecutters. Remove and discard the clamps
Separate the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) from the splined stub shaft on the driveshaft.
Remove the slip yoke boot. Inspect the slip yoke boot for rips or holes and replace if required.
If, during inspection, the driveshaft and coupling shaft boot is found to be cracked or split, the grease should be checked for contamination. Check the lubricant by rubbing between two fingers. Any gritty feeling indicates a contaminated driveshaft slip yoke and stub shaft. If driveshaft (4602) is operating satisfactorily and the grease does not appear to be contaminated, add grease as described in the assembly portion of this procedure and replace the slip yoke boot. If the grease appears contaminated, disassemble the driveshaft, clean and inspect the stub shaft and driveshaft slip yoke for wear. If splines are excessively worn, replace driveshaft.
If required, remove and replace the U-joints.
Assembly
Install the slip yoke boot with the small diameter side facing the splined stub shaft on the stub shaft. Push the slip yoke boot as far as it will travel on the stub shaft.
Install a small driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp and crimp the clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.
Compress the slip yoke boot and coat the stub shaft splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Fill the slip yoke boot with approximately 10 grams of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Slide the large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp onto the barrel of the driveshaft slip yoke.
Align the blind splines on the splined stub shaft and in the driveshaft slip yoke. Push the driveshaft slip yoke onto the stub shaft.
Remove all excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces. Position the slip yoke boot over the driveshaft slip yoke boot groove.
Move the driveshaft slip yoke in or out in order to obtain the distance of 10 inches between stud shaft weld to the centerline of the driveshaft slip yoke U-joint
Before installing the new large slip yoke boot clamp, make sure that any air pressure which may have built up in the slip yoke boot is relieved. Carefully insert a screwdriver between the slip yoke boot and the driveshaft slip yoke and allow the trapped air to escape ("burp") from the slip yoke boot. THE AIR MUST BE RELEASED ONLY AFTER THE DRIVESHAFT IS SET AT THE SPECIFIED LENGTH
Position the new large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp over the slip yoke boot and groove in the driveshaft slip yoke. Crimp the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp with Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.
As the guys advised;
From Ford, 96 Bronco Workshop Manual
The Bronco rear driveshaft is of the double Cardan type which incorporates two universal joints, a driveshaft centering socket yoke (4782), and a driveshaft center yoke (4784) at the transfer case end of each shaft. A single universal joint is used at the axle end of the driveshaft.
Rear Driveshaft and Coupling Shaft, Bronco
Item Part Number Description
1 4635 Universal Joint Kit
2 — Bearing (Part of 4635)
3 — Snap Ring (Part of 4635)
4 — Seal (Part of 4635)
5 — Spider (Part of 4635)
6 — Splined Stub Shaft
(Part of 4602)
7 4421 Slip Yoke Boot
8 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke
9 — Boot Groove (Part of 4841)
10 4K227 Large Clamp
11 4K227 Small Clamp
12 4602 Driveshaft
13 — Front Driveshaft Yoke
(Part of 4602)
Clunk, Driveshaft in a 96; "...could be a few things..
U-joints going out on the driveshaft,
slip shaft needs greasing
or 3rd member is worn and loose.
get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the shaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all;
than grease your slip-joint and go from there
by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong); "...When you check the u-joints as Spiked described, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad..."
Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) & by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)
To grease slip yoke; cut the boot retaining ring clips
slide the boot over the shaft. grease splines & pull boot back over & use zip ties to hold boot in-place.
This is how FORD describes it;
cut the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamps (4K227) with sidecutters. Remove and discard the clamps
Separate the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) from the splined stub shaft on the driveshaft.
Remove the slip yoke boot. Inspect the slip yoke boot for rips or holes and replace if required.
If, during inspection, the driveshaft and coupling shaft boot is found to be cracked or split, the grease should be checked for contamination. Check the lubricant by rubbing between two fingers. Any gritty feeling indicates a contaminated driveshaft slip yoke and stub shaft. If driveshaft (4602) is operating satisfactorily and the grease does not appear to be contaminated, add grease as described in the assembly portion of this procedure and replace the slip yoke boot. If the grease appears contaminated, disassemble the driveshaft, clean and inspect the stub shaft and driveshaft slip yoke for wear. If splines are excessively worn, replace driveshaft.
If required, remove and replace the U-joints.
Assembly
Install the slip yoke boot with the small diameter side facing the splined stub shaft on the stub shaft. Push the slip yoke boot as far as it will travel on the stub shaft.
Install a small driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp and crimp the clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.
Compress the slip yoke boot and coat the stub shaft splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Fill the slip yoke boot with approximately 10 grams of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Slide the large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp onto the barrel of the driveshaft slip yoke.
Align the blind splines on the splined stub shaft and in the driveshaft slip yoke. Push the driveshaft slip yoke onto the stub shaft.
Remove all excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces. Position the slip yoke boot over the driveshaft slip yoke boot groove.
Move the driveshaft slip yoke in or out in order to obtain the distance of 10 inches between stud shaft weld to the centerline of the driveshaft slip yoke U-joint
Before installing the new large slip yoke boot clamp, make sure that any air pressure which may have built up in the slip yoke boot is relieved. Carefully insert a screwdriver between the slip yoke boot and the driveshaft slip yoke and allow the trapped air to escape ("burp") from the slip yoke boot. THE AIR MUST BE RELEASED ONLY AFTER THE DRIVESHAFT IS SET AT THE SPECIFIED LENGTH
Position the new large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp over the slip yoke boot and groove in the driveshaft slip yoke. Crimp the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp with Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.
Last edited by a moderator:
koontreeguy
New member
does it happen in reverse also?
I had a similar problem on my '96 EB Bronco. After rebuilding the drive line with new universals, I added a TrakLok LS rear and then realized the rear springs were the problem. Replaced them with a new set of HD springs and shackles and the problem disappeared.
yo goff,
( I almost mis-spelled your name)
Were the shackles rusted-out?
I found one bad shackle ready to pop in a friend's truck a few yrs ago; the garden hose stethoscope works well for this as well as the slip's splines clunk.
( I almost mis-spelled your name)
Were the shackles rusted-out?
I found one bad shackle ready to pop in a friend's truck a few yrs ago; the garden hose stethoscope works well for this as well as the slip's splines clunk.
