i gotta drop the tank for this don't I? trying to see a quick disconnect with a mirror and I dont see it...is that C411? On the diagram it is just saying fuel pump/fuel sender connector. Would you recommend making a "door" for this from the top. I am sure i gotta be real careful with that tank underneath but i just cant see myself getting this back in the frame with any fuel in it once it comes down. i am sure it is heavy enough without the fuel in the mix of things.
yo
Yes it is Connector C411
See this diagram showing Pump + & PUMP - locations on connector
+ wire is Brown
Check the Grounds
I would fab a fuel pump access hole,
Fabrication by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/212/66211
Disconnect the wiring at the connector.
Remove all dirt from the area of the sender.
Disconnect the fuel lines.
Turn the locking ring counterclockwise to remove it. There is a wrench designed for this purpose. If the wrench is not available, you can loosen the locking ring by placing a WOOD dowel against on the the tabs on the locking ring and hammering it loose. NEVER USE A METAL DRIFT!
Lessons Learned
Source: by digitalbill
1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed.
2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation
3: If you decide to cut an access door, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).
I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.
4: Speaking of cutting.. .I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.
5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...
6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy.
Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy.
7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.
8: Also, the edges are sharp. let me clairify.
YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself
==============
Panel Attachment pics in a 90; "...Notice that I only cut three sides of the access panel and then bent the panel up to access the fuel pump. Once I was done I bent the panel back into place. I went to Ace Hardware and purchased the straight steel bar that fit perfectly between the ridges in the truck bed (I belive it 10" long by 3/4 inch wide by 3/8 inch thick). The holes for the screws were already predrilled into the steel bar when I purchased them. I used short self tapping screws to secure the bar to the truck bed and the panel. Make sure you do not use screws that are too long or you will end up screwing into the tank or fuel lines! Caulked it up. You an barely tell the panel is there. Covered it again with my vinyl flooring, put the trim back on and good as new - well at least as good as it was before I started..."
Source: by jesusfrk at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/20985/71111
you can cut a larger patch panel out of any 80-96 Bronco or F Series
Our Sponsor Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has this Patch Panel, 48 in. x 16 in.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-34094-rear-bed-patch-panel-48in-x-16in-.html F350
and your 90 has one pump, in-tank
Two pumps were used up to 89
