Hi everyone. I am new to this site and I was hoping if someone can help me. I am thinking about buying a 1995 bronco with the 302 and the E40D tranny. Off the top of my head I do not know the millage on the truck. There is a little body rust but again its a 95. The guy told me it runs fine but the tranny slips a little going into 2nd gear and only seems to be 2nd he said. Is this worth buying or no? Also give me some things to look for that can run into problems later. Thanks a lot.
Buying my first Bronco
- Thread starter FX41014
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bobstrat
New member
how much is he asking?
yo,
We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule.
One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.
Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- E4OD - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 95 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing; ask owner if you can do a self-tesdt for Code (see below);
Shift solenoids 1 and 2 provide gear selection of first through fourth gears by controlling the pressure to the three shift valves.
Shift Solenoid 1: Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp. Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 621,* P0750,* P0751, P0781,** P0782,** P0783.** (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
Shift Solenoid 2: Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 622,* P0755,* P0781,** P0782,** P0783,** P0756. (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...
check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- ball joints.. costly if not DIY
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM) is speedo in 92-96, make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY
- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mounts and fram rust
- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
For pre 96 do a Self Test, by my pal, BroncoJoe19do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first
& Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion
We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule.
One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.
Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- E4OD - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 95 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing; ask owner if you can do a self-tesdt for Code (see below);
Shift solenoids 1 and 2 provide gear selection of first through fourth gears by controlling the pressure to the three shift valves.
Shift Solenoid 1: Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp. Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 621,* P0750,* P0751, P0781,** P0782,** P0783.** (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
Shift Solenoid 2: Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 622,* P0755,* P0781,** P0782,** P0783,** P0756. (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...
check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- ball joints.. costly if not DIY
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM) is speedo in 92-96, make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY
- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford myford.fordvehicles.com (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mounts and fram rust
- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
For pre 96 do a Self Test, by my pal, BroncoJoe19do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first
& Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion
bobstrat
New member
i would not recommend this for a primary daily driver. the mileage alone is reason enough. if it is to be a 2nd vehicle you could not have picked a cooler ride.
the e4od is an expensive rebuild.
the rusted fenders are par for the course.
as long as the interior is in good shape, it idles and runs normally and the 4x4 system works - $1800 doesn't sound like a bad price, but the cheaper you can go, the better. can you post a few pictures, maybe both sides and the interior? that would make it easier to give advice.
i would not suggest purchasing a 16 year old vehicle if at least one of the following statements are not true:
1) i am wealthy and money is no object.
2) i have the tools and ability to remove and replace vehicle parts such as transmissions and/or engines. (if you are capable of this, the nickle and dime problems you will surely encounter should be no problem.)
the e4od is an expensive rebuild.
the rusted fenders are par for the course.
as long as the interior is in good shape, it idles and runs normally and the 4x4 system works - $1800 doesn't sound like a bad price, but the cheaper you can go, the better. can you post a few pictures, maybe both sides and the interior? that would make it easier to give advice.
i would not suggest purchasing a 16 year old vehicle if at least one of the following statements are not true:
1) i am wealthy and money is no object.
2) i have the tools and ability to remove and replace vehicle parts such as transmissions and/or engines. (if you are capable of this, the nickle and dime problems you will surely encounter should be no problem.)
Krafty
New member
I would have to say that it has alot of potential, but the trans problem will keep jumping up. it could be all kinds of things from a slipping clutch disc to not enough fluid. I would say tell the guy to do a trans flush and filter change and consider $1600 or $1500 as it is. the rust is easy enough to fix as long as the floor and rockers are still solid.
Emphasize the rust and trans problem if he starts whining about the offer.
I drive a rusty old 93 f150 which I would rather spend money on fixing then making newer truck payments. ( which is way less then truck payments)
but hey its up to you.
Emphasize the rust and trans problem if he starts whining about the offer.
I drive a rusty old 93 f150 which I would rather spend money on fixing then making newer truck payments. ( which is way less then truck payments)
but hey its up to you.
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