Burning Oil

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brenden84

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hey guys. i'm burning oil and i originally assumed that i had bad valve cover gaskets, however, ive been learning more and i think its possible i might have bad piston rings and that the oil is leaking into the chamber and thats where its being burned, not on the engine block. thinking back on it, it looks like the smoke was coming from one of the spark plugs. would the best way to check this be to remove the plug from the questionable shaft and inspect it for oil deposits? if it is the rings whats the best way to go about fixing it?

thanks, brenden

 

BigNasty

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Depends on where the oil smoke is coming from and for what duration..

If it is from the exhaust and only a few puffs on start up, i would suggest getting new valve seals installed. (You can do this yourself with the right tools, but if you are unsure of your abilities or lack tools, it isn't too expensive to have done at a shop)

If from the exhaust and constantly while running, then I would suspect the rings or an over pressurizing of the block.

The over pressuring of the block can be something as simple as a pcv valve that has become completely clogged or stuck, where it isnt allowing the intake vacuum to remove the natural pressure due to slight ring blowby.

The first thing I would do, it sounds as if you have already done, which is search for obvious leaks, then determine what you can about the exhaust smoke- just at start up or constant?

Check the pcv valve by removing it and shaking it, listening for free movement by the slug inside, or just replace it since they are rather cheap :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Reading the plugs can lead to some clues about what is going on inside the combustion chamber as well. If a plug or plugs is/are wet with oil, I would deffinately say the rings are worn and if it has heavy dry carbon build up or patchy thick deposits, I would be inclined towards valve seals and or pcv valve.

If it is suspected to be valve seals, then it is a simple fix by merely replacing the valve seals. (I won't get grimey with details on that :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> )

If it is determined to most likely be the rings, there are a few ways to go about correcting the issue.

One way is to have a ring job done, where the pistons are pulled, cylinders ridged and honed and new rings installed and everything installed back into its original location (pistons)

Another way is to yank and simply rebuild (I recommend this way as if the rings are worn, then the bearing surfaces and other parts are probably worn out or very close to being worn out anyway). During a ring job, it may be found out that you will need to rebuild as well as bore and install oversize pistons or replace all the bearings anyway..so....

Another thing to consider is whether or not the engine has been rebuilt in the past and if it was actually done properly with the correct parts...

Trust me.. one set of wrong parts can wreak havok on your engine and your mind trying to figure it out.

My bronco is a prime example of that.

It has a 351w, built stout, all aftermarket internals, big cam etc and one set of overlooked parts which were causing over pressurization of the block to the point of killing the engine much like a clogged cat and blowing oil (yes, wet oil) out the tail pipes. (had the bronco about 3 weeks before discovering what was causing the problem...)

The overlooked parts, were the rocker arms.

The originals were used on top of the big cam when long slots should have been used.

The result was nearly disasterous as the person that rebuilt it, managed to run it for about 17,000 miles while the cam, lifters and pushrods were literally beating the rocker studs (press in) out of the heads.

ALL of the studs were pushed out to some degree with the studs on the #3 cylinder being the worst, with the exhaust valve not being moved at all and the intake valve barely opening enough to let some air in on the intake stroke.

The result of the valves improper opening was that all the compressed gasses in that cylinder were being forced past the rings and presurizing the block enough to push gobs of oil past all the remaining live cylinders, eventually slinging it out the exhaust.

It is fixed now (time consuming pain in my tailbone...) and may be another post in it's own :D /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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indoz

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The quickest way to test if the pistonrings are bad is to take all the sparkplugs out and pressure test each cylinder, then with an oil can put a good squirt of oil in each cylinder, one at the time, and read pressure again, if pressure is higher with oil then your rings are bypassing. Good luck.

Henk from Oz

 
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brenden84

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wow. that was an impressive reply. well, the smoke is actually coming from the block...under the hood. im unaware of smoke coming from the tailpipe at all, i'll start it up and check but ive never seen that before. also, the block is covered in oil, wet oil, more than it was about 2 weeks ago. im assuming now that its the gaskets...what u think?

brenden

engine has appx 30000 miles on it, brand new from the factory(says previous owner) i suspect its not all new parts but ive never had a problem starting it or with the way it runs the entire time ive owned it. 8 months with not a single engine problem isnt bad. 155000 on the chasis.

 

BigNasty

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If that's the case, oily block, then I would get the engine steam cleaned to get all the oil and dirt off it and see just where the oil is coming from after its started up.

Depending on where its actually coming from (the fan can blow oil and other fluids all over, sometimes making it difficult to find the true leak) will determine the course of action.

It could be a leak on the timing cover and get sprayed all over both sides of the block easily by the fan.

And dang it!

I didn't even think about testing the rings with a bleed down gauge..

then again, I havent done that in so long... it didn't even occur to me :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

Justshootme84

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brenden84, I would firswt wsuspect your valve cover gaskets as well, if you have oil running down the block. My engine had several leaks when I boght it, an the engine was just rebuilt!!! Valve covers, intake gaskets, fuel pump, oil pan, and the worst was a dipstick tube hole in the block that was not plugged. When searching for the source of the leak(s), remember that oil will not run uphill, so start looking from the bottom with a good light and a mirror. I needed a dentist-type mirror on a stick to find the dipstick hole, but noticed a wide trail on the side of the oil pan.

Like posted if your rings or valve guides are burning oil, you will see blue smoke when you start the engine. My Chevy is that way due to it being on propane which ruined the seals, but it still runs.

 

Shadow_D

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There is something that will make life a lot easier searching for an oil leak, it's called "Oil Dye". You put it in your oil and run the truck for about a day or so then you need to use a black light to look all over the engine. The black light will light up the oil dye like crazy. Now that you know where the leak/s is / are you can now fix it / them.

I think you can find it at your LAPS or dealer.

Good Luck

 
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brenden84

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ok, thanks a lot guys, i think im gonna go ahead and replace the gaskets as well as look for any other leaks. they're old anyway.

shadow d- i know the old broncos have been used as police vehicles before, what exactly does the police package noted in your signature entail?

brenden

 

Shadow_D

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I have the quad suspension, Front & Rear sway bars, High output alternator and the 351W.

According to the sales brochure I got, Ford didn't offer the 351 in the 1990 FS Bronco

 

Shadow_D

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I'm not sure about that but I just had to replace the starter tonight and it is not the standard 351 starter found in most 1990 FS Broncos. The correct one is for a 1994 FS Bronco :huh:

 

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