Brakes

[Burns]

I just did my brake system. New master cylinder, new fluid, new springs for the drums, new cylinders, new shoes for the drums and new pads for the disc. Front was no problem, but the drums... Whoever did them last (before I got it) put the trailers on one side and the shorter on the other. We got that all sorted out, put everything together, and went for a test run in the parking lot of a nearby (closed) supermarket. The pedal goes about halfway down no resistance, then catches, and it seems I have to really force it to go further, and it just kinda creeps to a stop instead of stopping normally. It also pulls to the right when I apply the brakes. The guy who did them told me that I have to wait for the brakes to "settle in" to feel like they did. I can't tell if one of the rears is catching while the others not, or maybe one of the caliper's is catcher sooner than the other?

We're going to give it a vacumn test and bleed it again to see if that helps. Could there be something else that we're missing?

 

[pinson27]

I just did my brake system. New master cylinder, new fluid, new springs for the drums, new cylinders, new shoes for the drums and new pads for the disc. Front was no problem, but the drums... Whoever did them last (before I got it) put the trailers on one side and the shorter on the other. We got that all sorted out, put everything together, and went for a test run in the parking lot of a nearby (closed) supermarket. The pedal goes about halfway down no resistance, then catches, and it seems I have to really force it to go further, and it just kinda creeps to a stop instead of stopping normally. It also pulls to the right when I apply the brakes. The guy who did them told me that I have to wait for the brakes to "settle in" to feel like they did. I can't tell if one of the rears is catching while the others not, or maybe one of the caliper's is catcher sooner than the other?We're going to give it a vacumn test and bleed it again to see if that helps. Could there be something else that we're missing?

It sounds to me like their could be a little air still in the system,but you may also have a bad and/or a sticking front rotor.Also,when you swap out your master cylinder,you have to be sure to do it right,'cause theyre is a wrong way to install it which will lead to an air pocket which will stay there until properly installed or taken off and bled out.

 

[beausdad]

I had a similar problem and one of the employees at Auto Zone - not one with fingernails so long she can't pick her nose without puncturing her brain (see previous post about this) told me I need to put it in reverse and go back about 50 ft. and hit the brakes and that would realign them. I had never heard of that so I did it and it fixed whatever problem I had. I can't remember off the top of my head what the problem was, but it fixed it. Bleeding is definitely key too though. Oh yeah and I did the same thing with shorties on one side and long ones on other. Stupid old age - couldn't see the two inch difference in length.

 

[Cocobum]

Did you seat the brakes, go 10 mph then stop then 20 mph and stop / repeat until you reach 40 mph.

 

[Yardape]

Did you bleed the master cylinder properly? It has to be bench bled before it is installed. And then bled according to manufacturers specs. Starting with the brake that is closest to the master and working to the one farthest away. Brake pull is caused by unequally worn calipers. Example: Not replacing them at the same time. Or improper bleeding technique.

 

[Burns]

I had a similar problem and one of the employees at Auto Zone - not one with fingernails so long she can't pick her nose without puncturing her brain (see previous post about this) told me I need to put it in reverse and go back about 50 ft. and hit the brakes and that would realign them. I had never heard of that so I did it and it fixed whatever problem I had. I can't remember off the top of my head what the problem was, but it fixed it. Bleeding is definitely key too though. Oh yeah and I did the same thing with shorties on one side and long ones on other. Stupid old age - couldn't see the two inch difference in length.

Yea, I tried that earlier today. It's still pulling to the right. Didn't get a chance to bleed again, that's going to have to wait a day or two.

Did you bleed the master cylinder properly? It has to be bench bled before it is installed. And then bled according to manufacturers specs. Starting with the brake that is closest to the master and working to the one farthest away. Brake pull is caused by unequally worn calipers. Example: Not replacing them at the same time. Or improper bleeding technique.

The guy who did my master cylinder has been doing brakes longer than I've been alive, /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . I'm dead sure he's got it right. I'm debating getting new calipers anyway, but like I said, I'll try to bleed it again and then we'll reajust the drums again. He said the right rear might be catching before the left rear, so he's gonna check the new cylinders to see what happens.

 

[Yardape]

Usually if I can't isolate a problem with the brakes I will go onto gravel, a gravel road works great, Hit the brakes and then stop, get out look at the marks see what brake is locking up first. I have never had a rear brake pull like you are saying, always a front. If you haven't replaced the calipers, Thats most likely your problem.

 

[bobstrat]

did you bleed the abs valve on the frame rail? and do you have either warning lamps lit?

 

[Burns]

We bled them yet again, and I also read in the Bronco owner's manual that it can take up to 500 miles for brakes to seat. I spent a few bucks one night taking a looooong drive to get them to seat (and of course listen to music uninterupted ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />) , and sure enough, the pulling stopped and they work just fine. Thanks guys, I was feeling a little worried about driving a 3 ton truck with "not-quite-right" brakes.