Best way to manage 12V accessories

[AdamDude04]

What's the best way to manage all these aftermarket accessories on the Bronco?

I got a new 90 amp alt after mine crapped out.. I could run all my lights, A/C, radio, wipers, and CB radio and only time the volt guage would move is when I turned the blinker on.

Now with my offroad lights (only draw roughly 3.2 amps) with the A/C and headlights on, my volt gauge will hang around 10 volt range at idle..then bump back up to the middle point (normal) when I give the peice some gas.

So two questions..what's the best way to manage all these extra wires instead of connecting directly onto the battery... and do I need a bigger amp alt?

 

[Shadow_D]

Broncos have had trouble with corrosion for years, therefore you should run your own power for all accessories.

This can be as simple or elaborate as you want, I've done the elaborate type and I have around 50 hours building it.

First is the primary power wire going from the battery into a fuse then to a pair of breakers on my board. One breaker is a 30A, and the other is 25A. The reason for the second breaker is so that I can run that wire to a relay and only power those accs. when the ign key is on. Then from the relay I ran a wire to a power distribution block. The other breaker goes to another power distribution block that always has power. I've also installed an aux fuse block from a Crown Vic that I run my equipment through.

I've included a picture with labels so you can get an idea as to what I'm talking about. Keep in mind, I built this several years ago and have made a lot of changes to it so it isn't as neat and clean as it used to be. Maybe after I get the Beast back up and tunning, I'll go through it and clean it up again.

WARNING! THE PICTURE IS HUGE!

 

[Seabronc]

I would definitely recommend an upgrade to at least a 3G 130 amp alternator. The alternators don't put out full capacity at idle. You might want to consider a 3G 200 amp alternator with all the modifications you make to the electrical system. That is more than likely overkill for now, but I'd still consider it. The conversion is real simple and shouldn't take more than 4 hours at the most. If you want more details, let me know.

Good luck,

 

[AdamDude04]

I had the idea for a breaker box. Make labling/route/keeping everything safe and a dedicated area to tap into..

The 3G.. I think I heard of that. it's an Alternator off another make/model right?

I'm converting all my lighting to LEDs, and the headlights/offroad lamps are already HIDs which help save power. But I do plan on installing a new subwoofer, indash touch screen, then a nifty mount for my iPad.

Currently my power consumers are:

Navigation

Offroad lights

CB radio

Cellphone

Soon to be sucking up juice:

iPad (once I get a mount)

subwoofer

neon lighting (for camping only - My truck is my tent)

LED lighting inside the truck (my makeshift stuff - not ford lighting)

Power inverter with two power outlets installed

air compressor (for tools, an air up tire..nothing big)

winch? doubt it, but possible if I find one cheap enough

trailer an accessories:winch, lighting, power outlet

So I think maybe the 200 amp alt is in my future >-

 

[wileec]

If you are patient you can find a 130 at the U Pull Um yards aroud Denver. I do not remember what modle to pull from to get one that will polt on to an 89 though. You can look it up this guy has it all, http://rjminjectiontech.com/

 

[AdamDude04]

Thanks for the link.. I'm going to start looking out for one. Or maybe just buy one from the auto part store.

 

[wileec]

If you plan on buying a new one look at the prices RMJ beats the parts store by a bunch. Also if you go bigger than 130 you will need to redo the wireing the stock stuff will not hold up.

 

[AdamDude04]

If you plan on buying a new one look at the prices RMJ beats the parts store by a bunch. Also if you go bigger than 130 you will need to redo the wireing the stock stuff will not hold up.

I'll check em out.. link?

I know I'd have to update the wiring..probably have to anyway as the truck is now 21yrs old though everything still works.. Which wiring are you talking of though? The easy wire under the hood, or the entire vehicle to handle 130+ amp?

 

[wileec]

RMJ was the link I gave you. Pretty much just the Alt wiring. The harnesses are on the site and Ryan is a great guy willing to explain to us electrical newbs.

 

[wileec]

RMJ was the link I gave you. Pretty much just the Alt wiring. The harnesses are on the site and Ryan is a great guy willing to explain to us electrical newbs.

 

[AdamDude04]

Sweet. Well looks like I got another project for this winter!

 

[Seabronc]

I'll check em out.. link?

I know I'd have to update the wiring..probably have to anyway as the truck is now 21yrs old though everything still works.. Which wiring are you talking of though? The easy wire under the hood, or the entire vehicle to handle 130+ amp?

The only wiring upgrade you need to make immediately is for the output of the alternator. If you purchase from Ryan at RMJ he has everything you will need. You will be needing to upgrade the wire from the alternator to the battery. My installation is a bit different than yours will be, due to the age of the truck and other personal preferences, but the connection should be basically the same. I go from the alternator to a 175 amp mega fuse and from there to my battery, with connections to my solenoid and voltage distribution system.

Good luck,

>-

 

[hammer down bronco]

i honestly wouldnt upgrade, for all the savings with leds you can just use that power for your sub and what not, just dont run everything at once and you should be in good shape, maybe do a dual battery setup

 

[AdamDude04]

i honestly wouldnt upgrade, for all the savings with leds you can just use that power for your sub and what not, just dont run everything at once and you should be in good shape, maybe do a dual battery setup

I'm worried about running my sub, with my offorad/headlights on at the same time, at idle at night. If I have my foot on the gas, the volt meter reads normal..only at idle does it go low.

 

[Seabronc]

The purpose of the battery is to start the engine. Once the engine is running the alternator is supposed to be sized to supply all loads plus have some left over for replacing the charge in the battery that the starting process took. If the alternator can't supply the load, the deficit will come from the battery. If you load is more than the alternator can supply all dual batteries will buy you is more time until they are discharged. If you run long enough in that configuration both batteries will become discharged to the point that you will not be able to start the truck even with 10 batteries in parallel. Diesels use dual batteries in order to supply enough cranking amps to get it started.

A true dual battery installation has the batteries doing different functions with relay isolation between them so that when the engine is off you can run your camping stuff with out worries about discharging the main battery to a level you won't be able to start the truck. When the engine is running the relay connects the Aux battery to the charging system and recharges it.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Seabronc]

I'm worried about running my sub, with my offorad/headlights on at the same time, at idle at night. If I have my foot on the gas, the volt meter reads normal..only at idle does it go low.

That is because, at idle, the alternator is not turning fast enough to supply the demand.

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[AdamDude04]

Well yeah I know that.

So how low is too low? If at idle, with A/C, offroad/headlights, stereo on, the volt meter goes down to roughly 10v.

I doubt I'd be at idle much with nearly everything on, unless I'm cutting a tree out of the trail, or spotting a buddy. If it idles at 10v for 5 minutes, and uses the battery..once I start moving again the alt will just charge it back up right?

I got a pretty hefty battyer in there now.. Though I don't want to damage it by radpid discharge/charge.

 

[Seabronc]

Well yeah I know that.

So how low is too low? If at idle, with A/C, offroad/headlights, stereo on, the volt meter goes down to roughly 10v.

I doubt I'd be at idle much with nearly everything on, unless I'm cutting a tree out of the trail, or spotting a buddy. If it idles at 10v for 5 minutes, and uses the battery..once I start moving again the alt will just charge it back up right?

I got a pretty hefty battyer in there now.. Though I don't want to damage it by radpid discharge/charge.

Then why are you asking in the first place? If you don't plan on running in that configuration, and you don't have this problem the way you normally run, why is it important? "Doctor, Doctor, every time I bend my elbow it hurts!" Response from the doctor is, "then don't do that" Same thing here. If you don't want to upgrade and don't want to have the problem, "Don't do that".

If your battery life is important to you and you do extended running in that configuration, upgrade to an alternator that will supply the load required while the engine is idling. Your alternator to engine ratio is about 2 - 2.5 to 1. There is a given RPM for any alternator at which it can supply X load. The attached diagram gives you an idea of what speed the alternator needs to turn to supply X load. That doesn't mean that the alternator is necessarily putting out it's maximum capability at any given RPM. It only tries to put out what is required. If you run so that your alternator is putting out it's maximum all the time it will severely shorten the alternators life. Just like you don't want to run your engine at max RPM all the time, or sooner than later, a piston will find it's way out of the block.

So the whole thing is, 1. keep the alternator you have until it likely dies and leaves you on the road some place, 2. Upgrade to a larger one that is not stressed all the time and may last the life of the truck. I personally would upgrade any truck that adds heavy current drawing equipment like off road lights, high power stereo equipment, radios, etc. But that is just me .

Bottom line, it's up to you, it's your truck. The upgrade is an easy "no brainer", only takes a couple of hours, 135 amp alternators are all over the junk yards, 200 amp ones are available from several sources. There is tons of information on doing it on various model years in the Bronco forums.

Good luck,

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