Auto to Manual Hubs 95 Bronco

[Broncobeginner123]

I have a 95 bronco EB. For the past week it has started bucking, not the engine but the truck, when it does this i have no control of the truck and i unually end up in the wrong side of the line. I got all new Brakes, hubs, calipers, drums, and rotors. The mech said that my auto hubs were sticking, I was wondering if i could easily change from auto to manual hubs. Thanks.

 

[miesk5]

I have a 95 bronco EB. For the past week it has started bucking, not the engine but the truck, when it does this i have no control of the truck and i unually end up in the wrong side of the line. I got all new Brakes, hubs, calipers, drums, and rotors. The mech said that my auto hubs were sticking, I was wondering if i could easily change from auto to manual hubs. Thanks.

Sure; btw, do you hear a clicking sound when in reg. 2 wh drive mode?

Read this TSB - Auto Hub Lock, Ratcheting Noise - Self-Engagement of, TSB 97-6-28 by Ford for 95-96 via miesk5

http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/technical_...d%20for%2095-96

and, is this mechanic usually relaible as to his diagnosis?....when my auto hubs went bad, there was NO loss of control whatsoever.

How many screws are there in the hub's cover?

if 3 torx ***** cover; you need a conversion kit along w/the Man. Hubs

and;

it's a good DIY project; about 1 to 2 hours

one thAng - 95/96 factory 3 ***** auto hubs are revised from earlier years and you'll need a conversion kit to do it w/3 ***** units.

And, too many articles show diff. specs...must get to everyone to clear this up soon. I know Froggman will do a write-up soon w/everything needed + proper specs. & Lock nut socket tools/info; as Topher has done, see below...

------------------------------------

5 ***** Cover Swap by Topher: http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_hubs.htm

btw, he was replacing bearings too so if you're not doing that, skip those & caliper and brake pads sections.

And no need to remove wheel/tires or jack it up.

and Chris wrote to me about the BEARING LOCK NUTS TORQUE; something other articles do not fully address well & offered this:

"Word for word from Haynes Manual

Ford Pickups and Bronco 1980 - 1996

Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing.

Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees.

Assembler the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds.

Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006

 

[KJEfting]

Also, check your radius arm bushings. If they are completely shot, the front axle will dance around a little bit, especially while braking and accelerating. My bushings were completely missing and I had about an inch and a half of play there. When I first hit the brakes, the truck would randomly pull hard left or right. AutoZone sells the bushing kits for $6.50 a side and it only takes about twenty minutes per side to replace them.

 

[Seabronc]

My guess is a combination of locking hubs and frozen axle U-joints. I hope you are not running this on the road any more.

 

[Broncobeginner123]

Also, check your radius arm bushings. If they are completely shot, the front axle will dance around a little bit, especially while braking and accelerating. My bushings were completely missing and I had about an inch and a half of play there. When I first hit the brakes, the truck would randomly pull hard left or right. AutoZone sells the bushing kits for $6.50 a side and it only takes about twenty minutes per side to replace them.

After reading this I knowticed my driver side bushing was shot, most of it was gone and only a piece was remaining I am going to replace both sides on Mon. Hopefully this works thanks..

Sure; btw, do you hear a clicking sound when in reg. 2 wh drive mode?

Read this TSB - Auto Hub Lock, Ratcheting Noise - Self-Engagement of, TSB 97-6-28 by Ford for 95-96 via miesk5

http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/technical_...d%20for%2095-96

and, is this mechanic usually relaible as to his diagnosis?....when my auto hubs went bad, there was NO loss of control whatsoever.

How many screws are there in the hub's cover?

if 3 torx ***** cover; you need a conversion kit along w/the Man. Hubs

and;

it's a good DIY project; about 1 to 2 hours

one thAng - 95/96 factory 3 ***** auto hubs are revised from earlier years and you'll need a conversion kit to do it w/3 ***** units.

And, too many articles show diff. specs...must get to everyone to clear this up soon. I know Froggman will do a write-up soon w/everything needed + proper specs. & Lock nut socket tools/info; as Topher has done, see below...

------------------------------------

5 ***** Cover Swap by Topher: http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_hubs.htm

btw, he was replacing bearings too so if you're not doing that, skip those & caliper and brake pads sections.

And no need to remove wheel/tires or jack it up.

and Chris wrote to me about the BEARING LOCK NUTS TORQUE; something other articles do not fully address well & offered this:

"Word for word from Haynes Manual

Ford Pickups and Bronco 1980 - 1996

Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing.

Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees.

Assembler the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds.

Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006