All Power window switches stopped working. Driver side first, then passenger side within about a week. changed switches & circut breakers, but no change. Rear window & power locks all work fine. (knock on wood) Please don't tell me it is wiring issue!! what else could it be? both motors going out together?
All Power Window switches on 92 EBauer 351
- Thread starter Ric45
- Start date
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yo RIC,
Welcome to the ZONE!
Do you hear the motors spin?
Operation & Diagram; "...The door window circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 1 switch for the left motor & 2 switches for the right. The switches share power feed through the ignition switch (key-on only). On Broncos, this feed is also used for the tailgate window motor's dash switch. For the left window, the left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground. When operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. For the right window, the left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the right (passenger's) switch normally holds the motor wires to the dash switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position..."
Source: by Steve83
Trouble Shooting; "...This applies to the Driver and Passenger side doors. You could just have a tired motor or a bind, lowering the window is easier than raising it sice you have gravity working for you going down and against you going up. I would try jumpering the motor direct by disconnecting the plug and putting 12V directly on the pins to the motor, swapping the leads will change the direction of the motor. So if it is up and nothing happens, swap the leads and it should go down. Then swap the leads and see how well it works. If jumpering it direct still exhibits the same symptom, then: First check for a bind in the track. A worn regulator mechanism often causes the window to bind when going up. It causes the window to shift and try to go up at an angle insted of strait. If that is OK then: Second remove the motor and check the condition of the gear. If it looks good, then you probably have a tired motor. However, if the motor works just fine when jumpering it then you have a wiring problem. The problem could be the ground path which originates on the driver side and then goes to the passenger side. It goes thru two flex points where the wires transition from the door to the body and back again to the passenger side. Wires in those areas tend to break but they don't break all at once, they go strand by strand which gives a high resistance path for current to flow thru and causes the motor to be sluggish and first noticable in the up direction. One assumption I have made for the above proceedure is that if the problem is with the Passeger side window and you have the same symptom from either door control. If not, then the +12V path is to that particular window is suspect. The 12 volts comes thru two different paths, one for the driver side control and one for the passenger side control. The flexing wire problem is the same in that the wire breaks strand by strand..."
Source: by my Brother-in-Rust Repair, Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Wiring Diagram in a 92; "...Check for 12V at the passenger door switch on the light blue with black stripe wire. It should be hot when the key is in the Accessory or Run position. If you have 12V there try a temporary ground on the Red with black stripe wire to see if the motor will lower the window. If that works, Grounding the other wire, Yellow with black stripe, will allow you to put the window back up. So the initial suspects are the 12V line or the ground line that runs from the driver side door to the passenger side door..."
Source: by my Brother-in-DIY Repair, Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Welcome to the ZONE!
Do you hear the motors spin?
Operation & Diagram; "...The door window circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 1 switch for the left motor & 2 switches for the right. The switches share power feed through the ignition switch (key-on only). On Broncos, this feed is also used for the tailgate window motor's dash switch. For the left window, the left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground. When operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. For the right window, the left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the right (passenger's) switch normally holds the motor wires to the dash switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position..."
Source: by Steve83
Trouble Shooting; "...This applies to the Driver and Passenger side doors. You could just have a tired motor or a bind, lowering the window is easier than raising it sice you have gravity working for you going down and against you going up. I would try jumpering the motor direct by disconnecting the plug and putting 12V directly on the pins to the motor, swapping the leads will change the direction of the motor. So if it is up and nothing happens, swap the leads and it should go down. Then swap the leads and see how well it works. If jumpering it direct still exhibits the same symptom, then: First check for a bind in the track. A worn regulator mechanism often causes the window to bind when going up. It causes the window to shift and try to go up at an angle insted of strait. If that is OK then: Second remove the motor and check the condition of the gear. If it looks good, then you probably have a tired motor. However, if the motor works just fine when jumpering it then you have a wiring problem. The problem could be the ground path which originates on the driver side and then goes to the passenger side. It goes thru two flex points where the wires transition from the door to the body and back again to the passenger side. Wires in those areas tend to break but they don't break all at once, they go strand by strand which gives a high resistance path for current to flow thru and causes the motor to be sluggish and first noticable in the up direction. One assumption I have made for the above proceedure is that if the problem is with the Passeger side window and you have the same symptom from either door control. If not, then the +12V path is to that particular window is suspect. The 12 volts comes thru two different paths, one for the driver side control and one for the passenger side control. The flexing wire problem is the same in that the wire breaks strand by strand..."
Source: by my Brother-in-Rust Repair, Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Wiring Diagram in a 92; "...Check for 12V at the passenger door switch on the light blue with black stripe wire. It should be hot when the key is in the Accessory or Run position. If you have 12V there try a temporary ground on the Red with black stripe wire to see if the motor will lower the window. If that works, Grounding the other wire, Yellow with black stripe, will allow you to put the window back up. So the initial suspects are the 12V line or the ground line that runs from the driver side door to the passenger side door..."
Source: by my Brother-in-DIY Repair, Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Last edited by a moderator:
Seabronc
New member
Sorry to say this, but if your answer to miesk5's question is NO, it is most likely a wire issue, probably a broken wire or two in the conduit between the driver door and A-post. Usually caused by years of flexing.
Good luck,
Good luck,
Elmo
Member
so what did you find to be the problem ?
Elmo
Member
there you go. my hammer is sometimes my best diagnosis tool.
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