age long problem.. rust

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rebelyelltex

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ok heres what im up against. ive got some rust on my floor boards, nothing to an extreme mind you. i have 3 holes. one up near the e- break petal. one near the the back seat, and one in the bed area. how should i fix these holes? buy a new panel from somewhere? if so, where from? i can only find the drive side front floor board so far. could i just pop rivit or weld sheet metal over them?

mind you i would do these after treating the metal for the rust. (cuting, sanding, prime'n, ect.)

 

Yardape

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LMC truck sells replacment panels. How you fix all depends on how long you plan on keeping the truck. The correct way to fix is cut out the rusted area and weld in a new piece. This is time consuming but very rewarding in the end. After you remove the rust and replace with new metal you could also order some rust bullet, If you take your time the repair will last longer than you own the truck. The cheapest mickey mouse fix is just treat the area with rust check and pop rivot metal over top. I would never do that to my truck but each to his own.

 

whitey

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i was reading a thread the other day about using that 3m metal panel adhesive the other day on a bronco restoration project. it seemed to say that a lot of body shops are using this stuff for body panels instead of welding now. the guy who was using it was getting awesome results. it was an interesting read.

i can't believe i didnt bookmark it i may have found it on the miesk page.

 

Yardape

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This sounds like something GM would use... Had to go check it out

3m8115sm.jpgTwo-part epoxy used to bond steel, aluminum, SMC, and FRP (traditional fiberglass). The primary use is to replace quarter panels, roofs, box sides, van sides, utility vehicle sides and door skins.

For use on outer body panels only. Not for use on structural components such as pillars, frame rails, core supports, or rocker panels (on unibody vehicles). Cures on demand with addition of heat. Glass beads work as built-in spacers for optimum bond line thickness. Product has corrosion inhibiting ability. Has excellent shelf life, either opened or unopened. Using this product eliminates most overhead welding and heat warpage of sheet metal (associated with welding). Work time is 2 hours at 70 degrees F and 1 hour at 100 degrees F. Handling time is 4 hours and cure time is 24 hours. There are two recommended applicator guns. They are the MixPac

 

whitey

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yeah i think a lot of the manufacturers are using it in new car builds. apparantly even though it's not recommended for certain areas alot of body shops still do because it holds up very well. anyhow there was a guy on there that was redoing his bronco and used it for applying his rear quarter panels rather than welding. another guy on there was broadsided in his f150 and the panels he had glued on stayed intact. the whole thread was really long like 15 pages but totally fascinating. let me see if i can look through my browsing history and dig it up for you.

 

firelt90bronco

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I rivited metal plates over the holes and used RTV sealant around the edges. I then bedlinered over the whole thing so you'd never know there was any repair.

 
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rebelyelltex

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im not quite sure what im gona do yet. im just gona get the holes all cut out and see what i have to work with before i make the final decision. im somewhat curious about that stuff they used, i wonder how easy that would be to work with.

 

whitey

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im not quite sure what im gona do yet. im just gona get the holes all cut out and see what i have to work with before i make the final decision. im somewhat curious about that stuff they used, i wonder how easy that would be to work with.
did you read the thread? it seemed like it was fairly easy to work with. this is a floor panel correct? i may get the opinion of a couple local body shop men before you do it. just to make sure it's safe. but i would think cosmetically at least it would look fine. i know i'll use it in the future for at least some things.

 

theHIGHLANDER

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Floors are more structural than you may think. They're like big shear plates. Weld in some new panels. If you take your time and study how it's built replacement is a pretty simple task. Seal well when done and kiss rust goodbye forever. Get some sheetmetal drills for removing spotwelds and replace as close to the joints as possible. Spend an extra $20 and get a can of weld thru primer. Coat it all with POR15 when finished. Good luck with it.

 

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