95 ABS

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stusainte

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Hey everyone : heres my delema its snowing !! my 95 xlt front brakes are locking up only when trying to stop in the snow and when the brake pedal is depressed hard I get like a chatter felling and doesn't feel like a pulse has anyone else run into this problem and found a fix or know how I should go about taking care of this Im planning on going with a rear disc brake conversion but not until after the new year since the kids have depleated my bank account for christmas presents LOL I replaced pads and shoes, rear wheel cylinders ,and all that just before fall any help will be appriciated Thanks Stu

 
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stusainte

stusainte

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Hey miesk5 the abs light is not on and does not come on when the brakes lock up ill do a test when it stops snowig hopefully this afternoon and ill post the results Thanks for the links

 

miesk5

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yw

Since the Light is not ON, you should consider;

Warped disc(s); how is da run-out? were wheel lug nuts ever over=torqued by somene @ a garage?

brake shoe or drum is greasy or contaminated w/brake fluid (were the rear wheel cylinders leaking?)

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Some FAQs below frpm Bendix:

The most common cause of ABS activation at low speeds where an intermittent WSS (Wheel Speed Sensor) signal is present is metal filings on the magnetic section of the WSS. Carefully inspect the tone rings with a magnifying glass for cracks and chips

How do I determine if brake pull is ABS-related or foundation brake-related?

The easiest method is to deactivate the ABS system by pulling the fuse and performing several moderate speed stops to determine the reason for pull in the foundation brake system.

 
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stusainte

stusainte

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No the discs ar e less than 6monthes old put new slotted fronts on with new pads and shoes ne wheel speed sensors rear drums were turned down and plenty of life left with out replacement wheeel cylinders replaced not leaking seezed drivers side so i replaced both new rear hardware also , it only happens in the snow but mostly pass front wheel locks have plenty of pedal on normal braking I also noticed the other day coming down a slite hill just before my house have to take a right turn at bottom of this hill there was slush /snow and applyed the brakes (brfore the bottom) and the front brakes locked up and the pedal went to the floor and got that chattering feel and acts like the rears aren.t even working I used to work for a brake and exaust shop so brakes aren.t new to me but this has got me stumped what do you think?

 

miesk5

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Merry Christmas!

ok, get it out and drive around awhile where it is safe to apply brakes a lot; then feel rear wheel near drum area to feel for heat... no heat there = rear's are not operating.... feel both sides...don't burn your fingers in case they are working.

 

miesk5

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and,

"...In gravel, sand and deep snow, ABS tends to increase braking distances. On these surfaces, locked wheels dig in and stop the vehicle more quickly. ABS prevents this from occurring. Some ABS calibrations reduce this problem by slowing the cycling time, thus letting the wheels repeatedly briefly lock and unlock. The primary benefit of ABS on such surfaces is to increase the ability of the driver to maintain control of the car rather than go into a skid

 
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stusainte

stusainte

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First thing Thanks miesk5 for all your help on this I found the problem after digging through the brake system over and over and bangging my noggon on the brake drums LOL the rears were not fully working what was happening was where the brake line rolls up over the rear axle to the back odf the drum (Drivers side) there was a pin hole in the brake line for some reason the abs would devert braking to the front wheels because not enough presure to the rears never heard of this before but who am I to question the allmighty BRONCO so anyways i replaced the brake line and fixed the locking up issues Im still baffeld THanks again for the help and yes im still going rear discs someday LOL

 

miesk5

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Glad you found it Stu!

Figures, huh?

If it's not one thAng, then....

... it could be 1000 other thAngs!...lol

btw, I ditched my 4wabs.... first had a bad valve in pump, then the controller went South....

Bendix stopped rebuilding both..prolly due to quality issues and guarantees...

yard prices are outrageous for both, and being non-returnable/refundable without them doing any testing to ensure they're a-ok...

went thru 2 controllers before I figured it was time to return to old-school braking.

 

bobstrat

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Glad you found it Stu!
Figures, huh?

If it's not one thAng, then....

... it could be 1000 other thAngs!...lol

btw, I ditched my 4wabs.... first had a bad valve in pump, then the controller went South....

Bendix stopped rebuilding both..prolly due to quality issues and guarantees...

yard prices are outrageous for both, and being non-returnable/refundable without them doing any testing to ensure they're a-ok...

went thru 2 controllers before I figured it was time to return to old-school braking.

i am considering this route myself, does your abs light stay lit now?

 

miesk5

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Bob,

I removed the ABS bulb from cluster. some just pop trim off and place tape over the cluster area.

Also, some others have gone further by removing the 4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) & controller, and the brake line from Master Cylinder to HCU and to front brakes...etc.

Thinks some also swap out tone ring etc in front wheels while doing rotor replacement.....

GL!

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i am considering this route myself, does your abs light stay lit now?
 

Red95gotpotential

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Stu I'm having the same problem in my 95'. My ABS light is on however, but the fact that ford said the light is just a broken sensor baffles me because all 4 of my wheels lock up in the rain under even mild braking. I have a chatter or shake or whatever you wanna call it in my front end while braking also. I put on new rotors calipers and pads and replaced the radius arms and bushings and mounts. I have come to the conclusion that my bronco is old and old cars do odd things and I learnt to deal with it lol. If anyone knows any way to fix that dang shake let me know please! :p /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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miesk5

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Red,

If that Amber ABS light is Lit then the 4WABS System is OFF; system is designed so that any Sys, failure (any front wheel sensor or VSS (also called ABS or DSS), hydr control unit or controller, etc reverts braking to old school braking without any abs functions.

"...There are three main causes of "brake shudder," which is generally felt as a brake pedal or steering wheel pulsation or vibration. Having verified that your rotors are not warped (i.e. warped rotors are another, more obvious, cause of the brake shudder phenomenon), the following are possible, commonly overlooked, explanations for an experienced brake shudder:

An improperly seated or mounted rotors (i.e. the rotor does not turn perfectly parallel to the brake pad surfaces). This can be due to:

(i) debris trapped between the backside mating surface of the rotor and the wheel hub

(ii) improperly tightened lug nuts/bolts

(iii) pads that are not properly re-aligning themselves after releasing the brake pedal,

due to a very rough or dry (i.e. non-lubricated) brake pad to mounting clip interface

Heavy friction material film transfers on the rotors. Very heavy use of the brake pads, especially use which exceeds the manufacturer's recommended heat range, can result in uneven friction material deposits on the rotors. This results in a "grab-release" effect when the brakes are applied. While this will generally even itself out over time, in extreme cases, the rotors may need to be resurfaced/turned/cut.

Worn suspension parts (i.e. springs, shocks/dampers, bushings, etc.). "Old timers" call this type of suspension shift under torque load "tramp." In this situation, the car's alignment is slightly changing due to brake torque upon brake pedal application. Severe cases of this result in a very notable pull in the steering, and can become evident as a shudder. If this is the cause of your brake shudder, the suspect suspension components should be replaced..."

by Carbotech Engineering

 
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stusainte

stusainte

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Yea Thinking of goin back to old school myself because even if there is an issue you can always pump up the brakes and Red no my abs light is not on and I had to replace my rotors after finding them warped that s where my shutter was coming from I bought slotted disks on ebay for a fair price and once I get some cash put away im going rear disk conversion Good luck

 
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stusainte

stusainte

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Miesk5 do you have any links in vast memory bank of brushguard mounting directions and hardware I need 95 XLT Thanks Stu

 

miesk5

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stusainte

stusainte

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Cool thanks for taking the time to find these links much appriciated and sorryy for not getting back till now have lots of new projects goin on with the Bronc new 35,s brushguard and hpipe for exaust not to mention the brake issue I was having ( So much to do so little time ) thanks again for all your help Stu

 

shift1313

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sorry if im off topic but this is for my own knowledge. Ive only ever worked on rabs trucks. was 4wabs an option on 92+ trucks?

 

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