93 Bronco tailgate key switch
- Thread starter Duck dog
- Start date
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Yo,
Scroll down to; BY removing ONLY the silver clip, the switch assembly can be removed from the lock cylinder.
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TailgateLockParts.JPG | Hits: 6700 | Size: 38.01 KB | Posted on: 7/7/06 | Link to this image
Lock Cylinder for '78-96 Bronco tailgate
The parts are shown in factory order:
E-ring
Spacer
Spring washer
Paddle
Flat washer
Extension
Hairpin
The switch assembly (permanently attached to the t/g wiring harness) fits around the part in the insets.
TSB 99-24-02 Service PN: F6TZ-9821984-AA
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Switch C.JPG | Hits: 6617 | Size: 56.71 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image
The tailgate key switch is 2 weather-resistant SPDT micro switches riveted into a bracket, and operated by a paddle attached to the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder is retained by the brown clip against the painted surface, much like the door lock cylinder retainer clips. The switch assembly is retained on the lock cylinder by the hairpin behind the center of the paddle.
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Switch Down.JPG | Hits: 6970 | Size: 47.95 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image
When the key is rotated CW, the paddle presses the lower switch. The silver hairpin clip retains the switch assembly on the lock cylinder.
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Switch Up.JPG | Hits: 5893 | Size: 62.88 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image
When the key is rotated CCW, the paddle presses the upper switch. Note the arrangement of parts on top of the switch bracket: E-ring, spacer, spring washer, paddle, switch bracket.
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The only minor difference is in the key cylinder portion.
You just rob those parts off of your bronco original key switch and put them on the replacement. everything else is identical. The only thing these wont have is the leads for the defrost. My defrost grid is long since been butchered so I dont even have that connected.
If like me, you have issues with the window going up or down slow, there is an alternative wiring method that uses 2 relays. This takes all of the amp load off of the old wiring and the switches. The switches only carry enough to activate the solenoid inside the relay. All of the amperage that drives the motors comes thru the relays. You will have to run a dedicated power feed from the battery to the rear of the truck. I just use my Subwoofer Power feed and piggy back off of that.Here is the diagram for that.
From Eighty5Eddy ......."The original wiring uses the dash switch and wiring to power the tailgate motor as well as ground the motor when using the tailgate/key switch, this causes high resistance for the motor as it has to go through several switches and travels a long distance on thin wire. This rewire provides a thicker wire to power the motor and a closer/better ground to allow stronger operation. It uses the dash switch only to power relays and requires the dash switch to use very little power to activate the relays. This will allow easy installation of additional switches for the tailgate as well.The rewire uses the previous dash switch wiring and only requires 2 single pole double throw (SPDT) relays and an 8ga power wire going from your battery to the drivers side rear by the taillight. Once you have the power wire (red) going to the taillight, splice it to carry two wires going to the 87 post on each relay. Find the wiring coming out of the tailgate and cut 3 wires - 2 pink wires and the black/white wire. Connect the black/white wire (BK/W) to the 8ga power wire (this powers the key switch on the tailgate). One relay will only use the pink/light brown wire (PK/LB) and the other relay will only use the pink/light green wire (P/LG). Connect the PK/LB wire coming FROM the tailgate into the 30 post of one of the relays. On the SAME relay, connect the PK/LB wire coming FROM the dash switch into the 85 post. Do the same for the other relay only using the P/LG wire (FROM the tailgate going to post 30. FROM the dash switch going to post 85). Finally, ground the 87a and 86 posts to the chassis. Make sure to use a good ground, your tailgate motor will use this ground for power. To add more relays, simply splice into the P/LG and PK/LB wires, making sure your "UP" wire splices into the the P/LG and the "DOWN" wire splices into the PK/LB, this splice can be made at the dash switch or at the relay on the 85 posts."A convenient ground is readily available under the bumper where the tailgate harness connector is located. You can see the Defrost Grid Ground is attached there. You can run the ground off of the relays to the same ground and that will make things more consistent with the stock configuration.
Scroll down to; BY removing ONLY the silver clip, the switch assembly can be removed from the lock cylinder.
Url
Tag
Img
Thumb
TailgateLockParts.JPG | Hits: 6700 | Size: 38.01 KB | Posted on: 7/7/06 | Link to this image
Lock Cylinder for '78-96 Bronco tailgate
The parts are shown in factory order:
E-ring
Spacer
Spring washer
Paddle
Flat washer
Extension
Hairpin
The switch assembly (permanently attached to the t/g wiring harness) fits around the part in the insets.
TSB 99-24-02 Service PN: F6TZ-9821984-AA
Url
Tag
Img
Thumb
Url
Tag
Img
Thumb
Switch C.JPG | Hits: 6617 | Size: 56.71 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image
The tailgate key switch is 2 weather-resistant SPDT micro switches riveted into a bracket, and operated by a paddle attached to the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder is retained by the brown clip against the painted surface, much like the door lock cylinder retainer clips. The switch assembly is retained on the lock cylinder by the hairpin behind the center of the paddle.
. Url
Tag
Img
Thumb
Switch Down.JPG | Hits: 6970 | Size: 47.95 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image
When the key is rotated CW, the paddle presses the lower switch. The silver hairpin clip retains the switch assembly on the lock cylinder.
. Url
Tag
Img
Thumb
Switch Up.JPG | Hits: 5893 | Size: 62.88 KB | Posted on: 11/29/04 | Link to this image
When the key is rotated CCW, the paddle presses the upper switch. Note the arrangement of parts on top of the switch bracket: E-ring, spacer, spring washer, paddle, switch bracket.
. The only minor difference is in the key cylinder portion.You just rob those parts off of your bronco original key switch and put them on the replacement. everything else is identical. The only thing these wont have is the leads for the defrost. My defrost grid is long since been butchered so I dont even have that connected.If like me, you have issues with the window going up or down slow, there is an alternative wiring method that uses 2 relays. This takes all of the amp load off of the old wiring and the switches. The switches only carry enough to activate the solenoid inside the relay. All of the amperage that drives the motors comes thru the relays. You will have to run a dedicated power feed from the battery to the rear of the truck. I just use my Subwoofer Power feed and piggy back off of that.Here is the diagram for that.From Eighty5Eddy ......."The original wiring uses the dash switch and wiring to power the tailgate motor as well as ground the motor when using the tailgate/key switch, this causes high resistance for the motor as it has to go through several switches and travels a long distance on thin wire. This rewire provides a thicker wire to power the motor and a closer/better ground to allow stronger operation. It uses the dash switch only to power relays and requires the dash switch to use very little power to activate the relays. This will allow easy installation of additional switches for the tailgate as well.The rewire uses the previous dash switch wiring and only requires 2 single pole double throw (SPDT) relays and an 8ga power wire going from your battery to the drivers side rear by the taillight. Once you have the power wire (red) going to the taillight, splice it to carry two wires going to the 87 post on each relay. Find the wiring coming out of the tailgate and cut 3 wires - 2 pink wires and the black/white wire. Connect the black/white wire (BK/W) to the 8ga power wire (this powers the key switch on the tailgate). One relay will only use the pink/light brown wire (PK/LB) and the other relay will only use the pink/light green wire (P/LG). Connect the PK/LB wire coming FROM the tailgate into the 30 post of one of the relays. On the SAME relay, connect the PK/LB wire coming FROM the dash switch into the 85 post. Do the same for the other relay only using the P/LG wire (FROM the tailgate going to post 30. FROM the dash switch going to post 85). Finally, ground the 87a and 86 posts to the chassis. Make sure to use a good ground, your tailgate motor will use this ground for power. To add more relays, simply splice into the P/LG and PK/LB wires, making sure your "UP" wire splices into the the P/LG and the "DOWN" wire splices into the PK/LB, this splice can be made at the dash switch or at the relay on the 85 posts."A convenient ground is readily available under the bumper where the tailgate harness connector is located. You can see the Defrost Grid Ground is attached there. You can run the ground off of the relays to the same ground and that will make things more consistent with the stock configuration.
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Mr.Splinter
New member
Mr.Splinter
New member
Good advice. I will check it out.
Yo Mr.Splinter
SEE https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replac...5-39c2-4922-b832-d33ebe2b1ecf&redirect=mobile
SEE https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replac...5-39c2-4922-b832-d33ebe2b1ecf&redirect=mobile
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