92 5.0 bronco missing while lugging

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jimbo_146

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my 92 bronco misses while lugging, but when you give it gas it quites. it idles fine when warm but when you start it cold it idles up and down then eventually dies. and there is no check engine light...NEED SOME HELP

 

kschirman

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By lugging do you mean at idle or while under a load (up hill, towing etc)?

 
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jimbo_146

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by lugging i mean cruizin in overdrive, but soon as you lay the throttle to it, its fine

 

miesk5

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yo,

Does that OD LED light up when you turn OD off?

Pull codes anyway

a Self Test by BroncoJoe19do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first

& Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

have all accessories, lights,radio etc OFF

Post any Code(s) found here according to KOEO or KOER

 

miesk5

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Also,

E4OD Shudder; "...If the shudder occurs

a) during the 3-4 or 4-3 shift at HEAVY throttle, or

B) at 40mph in 2, OD OFF, and OD, or

c) at the same RPM in every gear, or

d) coasting, cruising, or in R, or e) during extended light braking,

then it is NOT TC clutch shudder;

The following is a list of common vehicle concerns that have been misdiagnosed as torque converter clutch shudder. For diagnosis of the following items, refer to the appropriate sections of the workshop manual and the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual (PCED).

Spark plugs - check for cracks, high resistance or broken insulators.

Plug wires.

Fuel injector - filter may be plugged.

Fuel contamination - engine runs poorly.

EGR valve - valve may let in too much exhaust gas and cause engine to run lean.

Vacuum leak - engine will not get correct air/fuel mixture.

MAP/MAF sensor - improper air/fuel mixture.

HO2S sensor - too rich/lean air/fuel mixture.

Fuel pressure - may be too low.

Engine mounts -loose/damaged mounts can cause vibration concerns.

Axle joints - check for vibration..."

Source: by Ford

 
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jimbo_146

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yes the od light comes on when you turn overdrive off, im goin to pull codes in the morning and also i drove it to work this evening and it missed all the way there no matter how i drove it. it was like one of the cylinders wasnt fireing. i check all the plug wires they all seemed to be ok, i put them on bout this time last year along with plugs

 

miesk5

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yo,

ok

post any Code((S) found here

While you're under da hood, look @ the fuel Injector wire connectors.. see if any are off

pic by Ryan M

injector.jpg


 
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jimbo_146

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i fixed the miss with a simple tune up, but i read the codes after the tune up and got the code 625

 

miesk5

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yo;

For Now;

Check for connector /wiring corrosion

Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) Solenoid:

Description: The Electronic Pressure Control solenoid is a variable force solenoid. The variable-force type solenoid is an electro-hydraulic actuator combining a solenoid and a regulating valve. It supplies electronic pressure control which regulates transmission line pressure and line modulator pressure. This is done by producing resisting forces to the main regulator and the line modulator circuits. These two pressures control clutch application pressures.

Symptoms: Failed on — minimum electronic pressure control pressure (minimum transmission torque capacity). Limit engine torque (partial fuel shut-off, heavy misfire). Flashing transmission control indicator lamp.

Failed off — maximum electronic pressure control pressure, harsh engagements and shifts. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 624,* 625,* P1746,* P1747.*

CAUTION: The electronic pressure control pressure output from the variable force solenoid is NOT adjustable. Any modification to the electronic pressure control solenoid will affect the transmission warranty. (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical condition.)

Possible causes

Damaged harness connector.

Damaged EPC solenoid.

Damaged MLP sensor.

Intermittent harness continuity.

Damaged PCM connector pins.

Key off.

Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

Install breakout box, connect PCM.

Connect DVOM to test pins as indicated:

For EPC solenoid:

Connect one test lead to EPC signal pin and the other to EPC VPWR pin. Refer to cover page schematics per application for correct EPC test pin.

For MLP sensor:

Connect one test lead to MLP signal pin and the other test lead to Test Pin 46. Refer to cover page schematics per application for correct MLP test pin.

Key on, engine off.

Observe DVOM display for indication of a fault while performing the following:

Note: In either case, the voltage should remain steady (less than 10.0 volts for the EPC and less than 5.0 volts for the MLP with vehicle in PARK). A changing voltage or one greater than expected is an indication of a fault.

Shake, wiggle and bend the component harness.

Lightly tap on the component connector to simulate a road shock.

 

miesk5

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yo,

Have you tested it yet?

It is da Solenoid pack

This is all I have on it or the other solenoids (seemy site for other solenoid & E4OD ino Links)

Drain fluid

remove pan

"10 bolts remove it.

None of them IIRC were under any covers. Here is a picture of how the pack was once I pulled it out.

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/295434/fullsize/IMG_1946.JPG

there is an o-ring around the connector. That is what is holding it in

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/237490/fullsize/IMG_4618.JPG

..."

by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco)

Solenoid Pack is #190, behind 195 & 18

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/543732_1

by Ford via Steve83

Connection Diagram for E4OD Transmission

http://www.baumannengineering.com/tcswrg.htm

Transmission Solenoids and Sensors Resistance Tests

EPC Solenoid

Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.

Connect negative lead of ohmmeter to the electronic pressure control (EPC) jack.

Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the vehicle power (VPWR) jack.

Record resistance.

Electronic Pressure Control: 4.0-6.5 ohms

Connector Diagram

http://www.zoom-tech.com/downloads/support/tranxpages/ford/Ford-E4OD.pdf

.

If out of specification, refer to «Pinpoint Test E» in this Section.

 
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jimbo_146

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sorry to get off the subject, but im tryin to change the fuel filter too and i've got all the sizes in the disconnect tool and there is not enough room to get it in behind the line to shove it off. it seems to be the factory fuel filter is there another tool i have to have. any suggestions?

 
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jimbo_146

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yeah my fuel filter is like the one in the picture with the big wrong on it, i guess i will have to cut my off, i thought the one i bought looked like it had longer ******* on it, and do you know who sells the fuel pump acess plates? that would be handy to have if i ever have to change my fuel pump

 
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jimbo_146

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the fuel filter thats on my bronco is for an older one and the ****** is shorter and for the plastic clip type which pushes the quick connecter almost up against the fuel filter body and there is no room for the disconnect tool.

 

miesk5

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yo, ok

The clips...

here ya go

This filter is for plastic hairpin fittings on older trucks - the correct filter for this truck has much longer *******. Now that this stainless fitting is locked on, there's no room for the safety clip, or for a tool to release the fitting. The only way to remove it is to cut the ****** off the filter so a tool can be inserted. But the risk of sparks is extremely high when cutting metal, so the filter body must be cut open first to drain the fuel & remove the paper

fuelfilterwrong.jpg

by Steve83

I've seen this before when friends had filter replaced at a mom & pop garage here in da Pinies..they use the std old filter for anything that rolls in to save parts stocking $

 

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