I stopped into a 4 wheel parts store to ask about leaf springs vs. coils for the back of my '70 EB. It was set up on 2.5" blocks with the original leafs on top of the blocks. The guy told me at the store I would need to get the stock 1" block to sit on the axle and then put the new better leafs ontop. Is this the best way to prevent my shudder or should I not use the 1" block for the lift. My car has a 3" lift in front and about 3.5 in back and told me the 4.5" leaf pack would work and look good as well. So second question is, any problems with lifting the back about 4.5 or 5" and the front is only 3". I think my breaklines and driveshaft should be fine?
5" lift on a '70 question
- Thread starter ToddJerad
- Start date
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"Is this the best way to prevent my shudder ?"
The "shudder" could be a number of things.....starting with the clutch, the U-joints, the U-bolts/weak rear leaf springs, even diff. issues.
"or should I not use the 1" block for the lift ?"
NO.... don't need it.
"guy told me at the store I would need to get the stock 1" block"
Never had one ..unless he's refering to the spring purch...is it missing/cut off?
"So second question is, any problems with lifting the back about 4.5 or 5" and the front is only 3?"
Just that it would look odd.....that look went out in the '60's
you want your truck somewhat level...unless you're hauling "heavy" loads.
11 pack 3" or 3.5" lift springs should do the trick. (11 pack ride way smoother)
Those blocks will cause a bit of axle wrap...and/or shudder... If the clutch, U-joints, etc. are good & you still have shudder (aft. new springs) then traction bars might be in order.
Any lift over 2.5" can have dr. shaft, emergency brake cables, brake line issues.
HTH
B B)
The "shudder" could be a number of things.....starting with the clutch, the U-joints, the U-bolts/weak rear leaf springs, even diff. issues.
"or should I not use the 1" block for the lift ?"
NO.... don't need it.
"guy told me at the store I would need to get the stock 1" block"
Never had one ..unless he's refering to the spring purch...is it missing/cut off?
"So second question is, any problems with lifting the back about 4.5 or 5" and the front is only 3?"
Just that it would look odd.....that look went out in the '60's
you want your truck somewhat level...unless you're hauling "heavy" loads.
11 pack 3" or 3.5" lift springs should do the trick. (11 pack ride way smoother)
Those blocks will cause a bit of axle wrap...and/or shudder... If the clutch, U-joints, etc. are good & you still have shudder (aft. new springs) then traction bars might be in order.
Any lift over 2.5" can have dr. shaft, emergency brake cables, brake line issues.
HTH
B B)
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rodsteal
New member
I don
I gotta agree, stay away from 4WPW for any kind of lift on an EB. You will end up with a SuperLift, Rancho or ProComp lift. All of which are garbage compared to any of the kits offered by the EB warehouses.
As for the shudder, does it do it only when you take off in 1st gear or does it do it in every gear? A lot of what Bully Bob describes is what is called axle wrap and a very easy fix is to get new GOOD leaf springs. And ditch the blocks, they will also cause your shudder.
As stated, they never came with a "stock" lift block. Another reason not to buy from them. Shows their lack of knowledge and that becomes a safety issue...yours.
If you lift your rear end higher than 3.5" you will have to have your driveshaft extended. Same with the e-brake & brake lines. There is no getting around that.
As for the shudder, does it do it only when you take off in 1st gear or does it do it in every gear? A lot of what Bully Bob describes is what is called axle wrap and a very easy fix is to get new GOOD leaf springs. And ditch the blocks, they will also cause your shudder.
As stated, they never came with a "stock" lift block. Another reason not to buy from them. Shows their lack of knowledge and that becomes a safety issue...yours.
If you lift your rear end higher than 3.5" you will have to have your driveshaft extended. Same with the e-brake & brake lines. There is no getting around that.
STLKIKN
New member
If the sales guy is telling you you need to use the stock 1" block and you don't drive a 78 and up Bronco, tell him to go learn more about the product he is trying to sell you...
As mentioned, stick with the guys that know their EBs... you will end up with a much better ride.
As mentioned, stick with the guys that know their EBs... you will end up with a much better ride.
Thank you guys for all your help, I love this forum. I will ditch the blocks and try and buy an 11 pack from one of the eb dealers on the web. Lets hope when I am through painting (first time with a whole car and 2 stage) that the shudder will stop when I replace the leafs and block in back. It seems like I should buy new u bolts just for the sake of updating as well. Are coils much better in the back and if so is there a reasonable inexpensive way to weld caps like the ones in the front or am I creating too much work.
"so is there a reasonable inexpensive way to weld caps like the ones in the front or am I creating too much work. "
YES...& YES....
It's doable but expensive compared to new leafs...& yes, you'll prob. need new U-bolts. If yours are no longer parallel, the threads are streached, and in anyway (the shafts) distorted...prob. time to replace. Although they're prob. long enough.
11 pack spgs. come in normal.., & heavy duty.
Having said all that..,
If you have lots of $$$ & time.., & are going to rock crawl...then rear coil kits are the way to go. James Duff in Tenn. has a nice set-up.
YES...& YES....
It's doable but expensive compared to new leafs...& yes, you'll prob. need new U-bolts. If yours are no longer parallel, the threads are streached, and in anyway (the shafts) distorted...prob. time to replace. Although they're prob. long enough.
11 pack spgs. come in normal.., & heavy duty.
Having said all that..,
If you have lots of $$$ & time.., & are going to rock crawl...then rear coil kits are the way to go. James Duff in Tenn. has a nice set-up.
Crude dude
New member
In a nutshell, if you go with coils, be prepared to drop this Bronco off at a shop for a while unless you have the patience, tools and money to make it right. Its going to be totally custom because of the four link bars and pivot point locations, let alone the frame and axle mounts for the coil springs. Leaf springs of today offer wicked articulation with soft ride for street and wash board roads .Coil springs are very sensitive and it may take a few tries to get the right ride. Big horsepower? Thats going to be an equation also. It would be cool to be different but sometimes the norm is the best way....and safest. Also noticed that you were going to install the rear leafs with the blocks, are these angled blocks? If so, this could be a vibration at take off. Let a driveline shop look at your pinion angle.
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The blocks were not angled just probably cheapo 2" blocks with the leaf set on top. I bought the truck like that and it also has rancho shocks as well, I think the person before just wanted a super cheap lift and did not care. As for me it will be in the city and I cannot deal with the wrap taking off in first. To answer an above question it is only when getting into first that this happens. I only was going to do the coils if it was easy and plus there is a jeep fabrication place next to my warehouse that could help with tools etc. but like i said before much easier to order leafs and cheaper it seems. Will i notice a big difference if i replace the rancho's? Off the top of my head they are rancho 9800 i think (if that makes sense).
You should be fine with those shocks...assuming they're the right length, & working properly, no leaks, etc.
