1991- upgrade thoughts
- Thread starter CJGamer
- Start date
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AdamDude04
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With all that work, I'm surprised you didn't just take the motor out and rebuild the whole thing top to bottom.
Great update though. You're making a great progress.
Great update though. You're making a great progress.
yo, Good job!
\re; MSD; I'd pass on that until you resolve the "stalling when at Idle"..
The Ford TFI has its buncha issues, but the MSD costs $$ to buy and then others seem to have coil/module problems. Some will say it's great, but I feel that you're on the track to get it all running right and then go onto the perf products.
Diagrams for 5.0, 87-93 by Tank92 (Tank) at SuperMotors.net
MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur.
So it's good that you're getting the seperators.
-
Did you check for Codes yet using buddy Joe's DIY test?
Some pure Guesses on the stall @ idle;
aside from the Usual Maintenence thAngs such as air filter...etc..
Vacuum Leak Symptoms, General; Too fast an idle speed; A rough idle or stalling; Hesitation or misfiring when accelerating; An idle mixture that defies adjustment (carburetor)
Idle or Stalling Problems & Troubleshooting; The Idle Air Control (IAC) is a cylindrical unit attached to the upper intake manifold. This unit electrically controlled by the computer, and allows air to flow into the intake at idle, bypassing the throttle plate. The extra air is accompanied by extra fuel to bring the idle up to proper speed, and when cold, allows a high idle condition. These units may become dirty, and need cleaning. Many idle and stalling issues tend to be blamed on these units. Cleaning is achieved by removing the electrical connector, and two screws holding it on. Once off of the vehicle, clean with throttle body cleaner (or a good carburetor cleaner). Continue cleaning until unit is clean, like new; reinstall unit. This is also a good time to clean the intake, and EGR ports (if applicable). Testing may be achieved by bringing the engine to operating temperature, noting the idle speed (should be within spec). Unplug the unit’s electrical connector, and the idle should drop to about 650 RPM. When the unit is reinstalled, it should return to normal idle speed. If the vehicle does not idle at proper RPM (too low), there are no vacuum leaks, and the TPS calibration is correct, than the unit is most likely fault
See my site for cleaning, TSBs, etc.
EGR valve that’s stuck open will act like a vacuum leak and cause a rough idle and stalling
etc.
-------------------
And as for not pulling the Motor... You did well! Esp in these weather conditions!!!
\re; MSD; I'd pass on that until you resolve the "stalling when at Idle"..
The Ford TFI has its buncha issues, but the MSD costs $$ to buy and then others seem to have coil/module problems. Some will say it's great, but I feel that you're on the track to get it all running right and then go onto the perf products.
Diagrams for 5.0, 87-93 by Tank92 (Tank) at SuperMotors.net
MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur.
So it's good that you're getting the seperators.
-
Did you check for Codes yet using buddy Joe's DIY test?
Some pure Guesses on the stall @ idle;
aside from the Usual Maintenence thAngs such as air filter...etc..
Vacuum Leak Symptoms, General; Too fast an idle speed; A rough idle or stalling; Hesitation or misfiring when accelerating; An idle mixture that defies adjustment (carburetor)
Idle or Stalling Problems & Troubleshooting; The Idle Air Control (IAC) is a cylindrical unit attached to the upper intake manifold. This unit electrically controlled by the computer, and allows air to flow into the intake at idle, bypassing the throttle plate. The extra air is accompanied by extra fuel to bring the idle up to proper speed, and when cold, allows a high idle condition. These units may become dirty, and need cleaning. Many idle and stalling issues tend to be blamed on these units. Cleaning is achieved by removing the electrical connector, and two screws holding it on. Once off of the vehicle, clean with throttle body cleaner (or a good carburetor cleaner). Continue cleaning until unit is clean, like new; reinstall unit. This is also a good time to clean the intake, and EGR ports (if applicable). Testing may be achieved by bringing the engine to operating temperature, noting the idle speed (should be within spec). Unplug the unit’s electrical connector, and the idle should drop to about 650 RPM. When the unit is reinstalled, it should return to normal idle speed. If the vehicle does not idle at proper RPM (too low), there are no vacuum leaks, and the TPS calibration is correct, than the unit is most likely fault
See my site for cleaning, TSBs, etc.
EGR valve that’s stuck open will act like a vacuum leak and cause a rough idle and stalling
etc.
-------------------
And as for not pulling the Motor... You did well! Esp in these weather conditions!!!
have not picked up the code reader- but I probably will. I did grab the wire guides last night, so I'm ready for this next weekend. Hopefully pulling off the intake manifold isn't that bad. Like everything else here, never done that before!
yo,
ok
You can read all codes using Joe's DIT test and save the $ on buying a Code reader.
For the INtake Man; see my site for R&R & Tip Links @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=167
such as
Removal, Upper Intake in an 89 5.0 Source: by Waltman at SuperMotors.net
Removal, Upper Intake in a 90 5.0
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at http://web.archive.org/web/20041105151429/http://rfr.htmlplanet.com/bronco/journal/journal_page10.html
Removal, Upper Intake Tip & Tool in an 86 5.0; "...This is the Torx T-40 you're going to need to get that pesky inner center ***** out with to remove the EFI's upper intake. Trouble is you'll never get that 3/8" drive socket between the runners, with the space the way it is. I just drift the center part of the T-40 out. It happens to be 1/4" hex. Now it's seperated from it's 3/8" host housing. I use contact cement to glue the T-40 bit into a 1/4" drive 1/4" sized socket and then work with several 1/4" rachet extensions, which pass through the intake runners no trouble at all..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=20145#content
or spend some $ for da tool
Removal, Upper Intake, T40 Socket Overview & pic; "... This tool is made to help remove the upper intake from your vehicle. It is not needed for all Ford intakes. Some intakes have longer bolts that are easier to reach. But if you can only see 4 or 5 of the bolts holding the upper intake on the engine, you’ll probably need one of these. The bolt that you can’t see way down in the middle has a torx 40 head. It is possible to make a chain of 3/8 or 1/4 drive socket pieces to reach these bolts. But this page is about all the cool tools you don’t have yet..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=12
etc.
GL
ok
You can read all codes using Joe's DIT test and save the $ on buying a Code reader.
For the INtake Man; see my site for R&R & Tip Links @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=167
such as
Removal, Upper Intake in an 89 5.0 Source: by Waltman at SuperMotors.net
Removal, Upper Intake in a 90 5.0
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at http://web.archive.org/web/20041105151429/http://rfr.htmlplanet.com/bronco/journal/journal_page10.html
Removal, Upper Intake Tip & Tool in an 86 5.0; "...This is the Torx T-40 you're going to need to get that pesky inner center ***** out with to remove the EFI's upper intake. Trouble is you'll never get that 3/8" drive socket between the runners, with the space the way it is. I just drift the center part of the T-40 out. It happens to be 1/4" hex. Now it's seperated from it's 3/8" host housing. I use contact cement to glue the T-40 bit into a 1/4" drive 1/4" sized socket and then work with several 1/4" rachet extensions, which pass through the intake runners no trouble at all..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=20145#content
or spend some $ for da tool
Removal, Upper Intake, T40 Socket Overview & pic; "... This tool is made to help remove the upper intake from your vehicle. It is not needed for all Ford intakes. Some intakes have longer bolts that are easier to reach. But if you can only see 4 or 5 of the bolts holding the upper intake on the engine, you’ll probably need one of these. The bolt that you can’t see way down in the middle has a torx 40 head. It is possible to make a chain of 3/8 or 1/4 drive socket pieces to reach these bolts. But this page is about all the cool tools you don’t have yet..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=12
etc.
GL
AdamDude04
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Oh yeah I forgot about the T40 ***** in the center... That was a PITA finding it not knowing it was even there!
Try to get the smallest one you can find. My problem was I needed an extension, and the socket that holds in the T40 in was too fat to fit in the gap, so I had to shove my hand in there under the intake holding the T40 socket and putting the extension in through the top gap.
Try to get the smallest one you can find. My problem was I needed an extension, and the socket that holds in the T40 in was too fat to fit in the gap, so I had to shove my hand in there under the intake holding the T40 socket and putting the extension in through the top gap.
why am I not surprised by this. I tell you- the engineering of this thing is just ridiculous. Especially for a motor that has been used so long, and get's such good remarks. no wonder the germans laugh at us.
That said- I am enjoying this- and how cheap the parts are is great.
That said- I am enjoying this- and how cheap the parts are is great.
Last edited by a moderator:
Continued this weekend. Got the fan painted, and put back on. Put the AC compressor back in place, put the main drive belt back on after looking at it- it's perfect. Installed a Cold Air Intake (old air box was all busted up, hose to valve cover broken)- needed to redo the air anyway, so why not? Things are really looking good.
Now- discovered a problem- that I think I did when doing the driver side valve cover. The stuff sitting on top of the rear of that valve cover- I think that's the Ignition system, or fuel injection? (This is all new to me- esp the electrical) Anyway- there are two colored wires, one orange, one yellow- and both are broken. I'm guessing that I did that myself a few weeks ago. And I tested it last night- and she doesn't start- tries to turnover, but wont. Any theories to what those wires are, and hopefully that's the cause...replace, patch, tell me please!!!
lol
Now- discovered a problem- that I think I did when doing the driver side valve cover. The stuff sitting on top of the rear of that valve cover- I think that's the Ignition system, or fuel injection? (This is all new to me- esp the electrical) Anyway- there are two colored wires, one orange, one yellow- and both are broken. I'm guessing that I did that myself a few weeks ago. And I tested it last night- and she doesn't start- tries to turnover, but wont. Any theories to what those wires are, and hopefully that's the cause...replace, patch, tell me please!!!
lol
Elmo
Member
Those that you found broken are probably vacume lines not wires, they break very easily i repair them with a piece of 1/8 rubber vacume hose about 1" long unless they seem brittle then i have replaced the whole dam line. Also they will not prevent the truck from starting. When you said it tries to turn over did you mean the engine turns very slow when you turn the key ? Or does it turn over fast like normal except it doesnot start and run.
yo, this is what I and Elmo think you broke;
"...Be advised that the ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve and the AIR BPV is the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve. The VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can where the red & black vacuum lines plug into; On my 1990 ex-5.8L, the Yellow Vacuum Line goes from the TAD Solenoid (driver's side forward solenoid) to the TAD (Diverter) Valve located at the rear of the Intake Manifold. You have to climb up onto the engine to feel the Diverter Valve or remove the Intake Manifold. I'd rather climb up using plans, ala a scaffolding type set-up; maybe remove hood depending on circumstances such as me now, w/ backache..."
Source: by Seattle FSB
The Pink Vacuum Line goes from the TAB Solenoid (driver's side rear solenoid) to the passenger side (adjacent to the Vacuum Reservoir Can) and down to the bottom of the TAB (Bypass) Valve
& to help ID it all; same as your year..
by Steve83
"...Be advised that the ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve and the AIR BPV is the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve. The VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can where the red & black vacuum lines plug into; On my 1990 ex-5.8L, the Yellow Vacuum Line goes from the TAD Solenoid (driver's side forward solenoid) to the TAD (Diverter) Valve located at the rear of the Intake Manifold. You have to climb up onto the engine to feel the Diverter Valve or remove the Intake Manifold. I'd rather climb up using plans, ala a scaffolding type set-up; maybe remove hood depending on circumstances such as me now, w/ backache..."
Source: by Seattle FSB
The Pink Vacuum Line goes from the TAB Solenoid (driver's side rear solenoid) to the passenger side (adjacent to the Vacuum Reservoir Can) and down to the bottom of the TAB (Bypass) Valve
& to help ID it all; same as your year..
by Steve83
Been a while since I replied, and i've been crazy busy with work stuff and kids stuff. but I've progressed.
I took off the Intake manifold, then replaced the gasket on it, the small gasket on it, and the gasket between it and the throttle body. It's put back together- and about to mount back on the lower intake manifold. I then replaced the passenger side header, and passenger side valve cover and gaskets. I've bolted both headers into the Y bracket from the cat converter, and just need to tighten them down. I'm having problems getting the 8th bolt in on the passenger header still..blah.
While the manifold is off, I'm about to rerun the plug wires. I've also bought all kinds of new connections for the vacuum lines, and will work on that stuff this weekend.
Two other items I swapped out were the ignition coil, and the starter solenoid. both cheap while I had everything apart.
I've also installed a Cold Air Intake- since the air intake box was all broken- and the hoses etc associated with it needed replaced. It looks pretty cool, even though I know it doesn't really add much. Pretty **** looking engine now with the CAI, chromed ford racing valve covers, and black headers. Every hose has been changed- except the little tiny one on the pcv valve- I got the valve and gromet, but couldn't find that hose, I'm gonna check some of the ones that just say "Ford" etc on them, and see if one fits- I bought two to check. I'll do that when I put the intake manifold back on sunday.
So in summary- the intake manifold should go back on easily (those links to supermotors were awesome to help me- Thanks)
and the only issues I have are correctly putting in the plug wires (since I've got so much conflicting info from different sites on them) along with replacing/patching vacuum lines as it all goes back together. Of course, the guy at autozone said...you know, if you want a place that will pass your inspection for emmisions without the lines hooked up, let me know.....lol
Anyway- I'm very happy with how this is coming, but hope I can get the plug wires correct.
I took off the Intake manifold, then replaced the gasket on it, the small gasket on it, and the gasket between it and the throttle body. It's put back together- and about to mount back on the lower intake manifold. I then replaced the passenger side header, and passenger side valve cover and gaskets. I've bolted both headers into the Y bracket from the cat converter, and just need to tighten them down. I'm having problems getting the 8th bolt in on the passenger header still..blah.
While the manifold is off, I'm about to rerun the plug wires. I've also bought all kinds of new connections for the vacuum lines, and will work on that stuff this weekend.
Two other items I swapped out were the ignition coil, and the starter solenoid. both cheap while I had everything apart.
I've also installed a Cold Air Intake- since the air intake box was all broken- and the hoses etc associated with it needed replaced. It looks pretty cool, even though I know it doesn't really add much. Pretty **** looking engine now with the CAI, chromed ford racing valve covers, and black headers. Every hose has been changed- except the little tiny one on the pcv valve- I got the valve and gromet, but couldn't find that hose, I'm gonna check some of the ones that just say "Ford" etc on them, and see if one fits- I bought two to check. I'll do that when I put the intake manifold back on sunday.
So in summary- the intake manifold should go back on easily (those links to supermotors were awesome to help me- Thanks)
and the only issues I have are correctly putting in the plug wires (since I've got so much conflicting info from different sites on them) along with replacing/patching vacuum lines as it all goes back together. Of course, the guy at autozone said...you know, if you want a place that will pass your inspection for emmisions without the lines hooked up, let me know.....lol
Anyway- I'm very happy with how this is coming, but hope I can get the plug wires correct.
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