1989 302

[Skitter302]

My 302 is down 1 cylinder now, I made my "EGR problems" thread back when my engine started having troubles, after discovering that my vacuum is steady, I took my Bronco to my mechanic to see if he could find anything. He found that Cylinder 8 is down to 50PSI of compression. Problem is pointing to piston rings which is believable because their is gas in my oil. Looks like that by using Seafoam I only accelerated a problem that would of come up later. Damn my luck.

I have decided that I am going to have the engine rebuilt. The Body only has rust on the bottom of the tailgate and a very small spot on the passenger rear fender flare. Basic sanding will have those spots repaired.

So my question is, do I have my 302 rebuilt to stock spec? OR For a few $$$ more I'm pretty sure I could have the engine rebuilt to 240(ish)hp and 340(ish)lb-ft. If I have a day this week that I get off on time I'm going to talk to the local engine shop about $$$ and options.

 

[miesk5]

yo Skitter,

Sorry to hear abut it needing a rebuild.

  Depends on what you want and would feel good when driving... more power - will that make you smile?

If staying stock;

Consider Ford Remanufactured Transmissions & Engines - Motorcraft® Brand, Broncos & all Ford

Halli wrote on 30 DEC 2010 that for a Ford Reman 5.8l long block it is 2308.00 exchange. 2210.00 for a 5.0; These are Ford dealer prices in the Mid-South Reman 5.0 = $1914.56

http://www.fordinstallersupport.com/files/catalogs/ptm200.pdf   (19MB pdf)

get some estimates from the Distributors (listed in each Catalog above) & Ford;

 dealer parts dept; see if local dealer will discount.

F1TZ-6V012-ARM

(LGB-144-RM)
Engine Long Block
5.0L 302 CID 8 Cylinders; w/ Knock Sensor
  $2,533.33 Select a dealer for prices & availability

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Part Description: 1989 5.0L 302 CID 8 Cylinders; w/ Knock Senor

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=7JN5t5Aq7e18rVQ24oKYvw%3d%3d&id=263580348&m=44&search=true&year=1989&make=Ford&model=Bronco

Ford has a good guarantee and the Qual is up there. And the Ford reman trannys/engines do not need to be installed by a Ford Dealer
Look at this Excerpt; (Ford guarantee shown below reportedly has been extended according to some friends)
"...Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines
Ford Motor Company, The American Road, Dearborn, MI 48121 (“Ford”) provides the following Limited Warranty on Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured
Transmissions and Gas Engines to Ford, Lincoln and Mercury Dealers (each being a “Dealer”) or general Installers (each being an “Installer”). This Limited Warranty provides that Ford will credit the Dealer or Installer for repairing or replacing, at Ford’s option, any Ford or Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmission or Gas Engine sold by Ford that is found to be defective in factory-supplied material or workmanship subject to the following terms, conditions and limitations:
Retail Customers: To obtain warranty service, please return your vehicle to any Ford, Lincoln or Mercury Dealership or return to the Installer who
originally installed the Ford or Motorcraft Engine or Transmission Assembly in your vehicle. Please have your original dated receipt for installation date verification.
Complete Gas Engine Long Block Assemblies (6006/6V012) and Transmission Assemblies (7000/7V000/7003)
• 36 months or 36,000 miles from warranty start date, whichever occurs first. Ford will cover 100% of all parts and labor at approved warranty reimbursement rates
• If installed by a Dealer, reasonable towing charges (up to 35 miles or to the nearest Dealer) are covered only if the vehicle is not covered under
another towing insurance coverage Short Blocks (6009/6V009), Cylinder Heads (6049/6V049) and Crankshaft Kits (6303/6V303) for Gas Engines
• 12 months or 12,000 miles from warranty start date, whichever occurs first. Ford will cover 100% of all parts and labor at approved warranty reimbursement rates
• If installed by a Dealer, reasonable towing charges (up to 35 miles or to the nearest Dealer) are covered only if the vehicle is not covered under
another towing insurance coverage
Warranty Start Date
• Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines installed by the Dealer or Installer—warranty begins on the date of installation
• Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines sold by Dealer or Installer over-the-counter or to a retail purchaser—
on the date of sale
Limitations to the Warranty
The following limitation applies to the products covered by this Limited Warranty
• Towing charges are not reimbursable for Ford and Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and Gas Engines sold
over-the-counter by a Dealer or Installer..."

read more incl the;
"No-Risk" Core Return policy means accurate quotes for engine and transmissions are no problem. 100 percent core credit will be given (regardless of damage or quality of returned core); just follow these guidelines and the return runs
smoothly.
• Returned core is the same part as the assembly purchased
• Core is 100% complete with all parts attached and all fluids drained and is returned in original package.

JR Nice wrote on 5 MAY 2012, Ford crate 5.0 H.O was about $1900. My local rebuild on my 5.8 was about $2300.
radiolotek wrote on 19 May 2012, $2300. For a complete assembly (1995 5.8)

 

[Skitter302]

I've been trying to figure out the best way to go about this, So far, Best thing I can figure is to order the Long Block from Ford and Hop it up later when I'm not trying to pay for school. Having a new engine will be up-grade enough for now.

O'Reilly's will loan the tools I need to swap everything from my current block to the new one. Over all less downtime and about $1k cheaper. Money I can put towards other items (i.e. Ball joints)

I've never done an engine swap before but I have friends who have /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[miesk5]

yo Skitter,

I didn't see your reply until this morning (24 DEC)

get some estimates from the Distributors (listed in each Catalog above) & Ford  dealer parts dept; see if local dealers will discount.  None will have the engine in stock, all will get them from the distributors so shipping costs will vary as well as Total Price,  Ensure they don't yak you into a Jasper or locally rebuilt engine w. a diff warranty,

In the Ford Remanufactured Transmissions & Engines Catalog I cited in prev reply, Ford provides a basic;

http://www.fordinstallersupport.com/files/catalogs/ptm200.pdf

Installation Instructions, Gas Engines ................................................................................ P-6 – P-9

Installation Instructions, Transmission .......................................................................... P-10 – P-11

Inspect other engine accessories, parts and systems that may need replacement very soon such as the;

Air Injections sytems TAB/TAD valves, hoses, etc. behind engine near firewall

EGR Tube

Motor Mounts

PCV Valve

Intake Manifold Gasket Set & Sealers

Hoses

Penetrating Fluid (or make your own w/acetone (or nail polish rebover) and ps fluid or auto trans fluid, 50/50 mix)

Have a torch to heat fasteners, esp exh manifold?

Torque Wrench & Torques Chart

 Hoipefully, other members here will add to list.

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Joey wrote a brief narrative on his eng. swap; But first disconnect battery (inspect cables);  and label all wiring connectors, plug wires and all fasteners (ARP sells some kits; check their site);  basically, label and snap pics of anything taken off engine before removing. Have enough printer paper to print pics and re-take any that needs clarification.

"...Disconnect all wiring from engine (remove upper intake to access the injector wiring)

Drain the coolant and remove the radiator.
Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter.
Disconnect fuel lines (requires a special removal tool that is easily found)
Remove starter
Remove flex plate cover and rotate the engine to remove the Torque converter-to-engine bolts (note, be sure to rotate the engine clock wise when looking at it from the front)
Unbolt the exhaust manifolds.
Unbolt the A/C compressor and tie it off to the side
Unbolt the Power steering pump bracket and tie that with the pump on it off to the side.
Unbolt the engine mounts and raise the engine up about an inch with a shop crane and then unbolt the transmission to engine bolts. It helps to remove the access plate inside the cab under the carpet for these bolts
And with some shaking, the engine should come up and out!
Once again I was being brief with the removal of the engine, Just get yourself a Haynes manual and it will tell you in much better detail how it is removed.
Getting the engine in and bolted up to the transmission was hard for me, I had ended up unbolting the motor mounts to get a better angle at the time..."

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 Haynes Manual; http://www.haynes.com/products/?searchType=vehicleApplicationSearch2&searchEnd=yes&sfID1=&sfID2=&sfID3=&year=1989&make=Ford&model=Bronco&x=13&y=14

I like the older red cover edition



Avail on www or local library, most have Chilton On-Line or Auto Repair Reference Center or

many local library's offer free on-line access for their members; just log-in w/your library Card # and password

mine has All Data on-line for free but in-library use only; All Data uses the Ford do

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Ford Racing has some crate engine install tips @ http://fordracingparts.com/download/enginetips.asp

Check each out for applicability to your 89 5.0

and try calling them for any Qs at

Ford Racing Techline at (800) FORD788

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