B-Co Kid
Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2010
- Messages
- 235
- Reaction score
- 8
Haven't been on here in a while, but i have been slowly moving forward with the B-Co. My two cents so far:
i can only speak for 1987 bronco, 5.8L 351w, borg warner 1356, c6 trans, carb application, duraspark II ignition system, without EEC (from factory).
If you plan on upgrading your cap and rotor to MSD cap and rotor, the MSD 8242 WILL NOT FIT (despite what MSD tech support says). The rotor is totally different. MSD support will not ask if you have a duraspark system, they will just rattle off whatever pops up in their computer. if you have a DURASPARK II system, with the canister ignition coil, your cap and rotor MUST BE the MSD 8450. There is also another cap and rotor set, for DURASPARK II application, that has a dizzy spacer, MSD 8414, but if the clamps that attach the original cap are ok, and the body of the original spacer is ok, you do not need the MSD 8414.
If you are upgrading your "canister" ignition coil to a MSD blaster coil, and your DURASPARK II system has the horseshoe connector, you can easily swap the stock canister ignition coil with the MSD 8205 because the connections are made especially for the horseshoe connector. You will not need the MSD resistor MSD 8214, the DURASPARK II system has a resistor pre-made into it. If you are considering buying the MSD canister ignition coil holder, MSD 8213 (for show), be advised that the original coil holder has a bolted connection to the coil holder that appears to be a ground or something. mounting this connection to the new MSD 8213 bracket may, or may not, be necessary. On a side note, I had a problem with my B-Co dying abruptly after driving. I upgraded my fuel line, from pump to carb, with all metal lines using AN fittings, and covered it with heat shield, assuming the dying was due to vapor lock. Turns out, i had a faulty coil. I replaced the coil with a stock coil, and i havent had that problem since. when i tested the battery, with the engine running, my voltmeter read roughly 13.3v with the stock coil. When i upgraded to the MSD blaster coil 8205, my reading was 14.5v.
If you are replacing your heater core with an aftermarket core, ie. summit racing vista pro ready aire heater core, be sure to get the smaller 6" core, or you will have one helluva time trying to fit the 7" in the dash (but the 7" will fit, forcibly).
If you are upgrading your 2G alternator to the 3G alternator, you will most likely need a 3G alt from a 1990-1993 ford taurus 3.8L with 8.25" ear to ear. I tried both the 7" ear to ear and the 8.25" ear to ear. The 7" definitely will not fit. The 8.25" fits but appears to stretch past the end of the tension bracket. An easy fix is to get a shorter than stock belt. problem solved.
If you are wanting to replace your front grill, many of the aftermarket grills will fit according to the year/make/model; however, be advised that the oval FORD name plate emblem varies. Most vendors will automatically offer you the flat oval name plate emblem. Some B-Co's may, or may not, call for the flat name plate emblem. My application need the oval name plate that was not flat, but more of a cup shape, part number E7TZ-8213-AA. before ordering your oval ford name plate emblem for the front grill, be sure to remove the grill and look at the grill emblem to see if it requires the flat emblem or the cup-like emblem.
If you are replacing the complete headlight assembly (including park lights), it is not necessary to remove the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. I considered having a body shop do my headlights/park lights bcuz i didnt want to deal with the hassle. Actually it was easy to replace. Again, windshield wiper fluid reservoir removal is not necessary.
If you have the time, energy, patience, money, etc., the dry rotting, flaking interior trim pieces can be sanded, primered, and painted (excluding the door panels) for a drastic improvement. The only reason painting the door panel would be advised against, is because sweating and rubbing against the panel will ultimately lead to discoloring of the panel and paint residue on your arms and elbows. I repainted my fender panels, speaker grills, ash tray, camper trim, a-panel, etc. Duplicolor worked very well.
Ive done several other mods, but the mods listed required unfortunate trial and error (and unnecessary $$$). Hope this helps the next!!
i can only speak for 1987 bronco, 5.8L 351w, borg warner 1356, c6 trans, carb application, duraspark II ignition system, without EEC (from factory).
If you plan on upgrading your cap and rotor to MSD cap and rotor, the MSD 8242 WILL NOT FIT (despite what MSD tech support says). The rotor is totally different. MSD support will not ask if you have a duraspark system, they will just rattle off whatever pops up in their computer. if you have a DURASPARK II system, with the canister ignition coil, your cap and rotor MUST BE the MSD 8450. There is also another cap and rotor set, for DURASPARK II application, that has a dizzy spacer, MSD 8414, but if the clamps that attach the original cap are ok, and the body of the original spacer is ok, you do not need the MSD 8414.
If you are upgrading your "canister" ignition coil to a MSD blaster coil, and your DURASPARK II system has the horseshoe connector, you can easily swap the stock canister ignition coil with the MSD 8205 because the connections are made especially for the horseshoe connector. You will not need the MSD resistor MSD 8214, the DURASPARK II system has a resistor pre-made into it. If you are considering buying the MSD canister ignition coil holder, MSD 8213 (for show), be advised that the original coil holder has a bolted connection to the coil holder that appears to be a ground or something. mounting this connection to the new MSD 8213 bracket may, or may not, be necessary. On a side note, I had a problem with my B-Co dying abruptly after driving. I upgraded my fuel line, from pump to carb, with all metal lines using AN fittings, and covered it with heat shield, assuming the dying was due to vapor lock. Turns out, i had a faulty coil. I replaced the coil with a stock coil, and i havent had that problem since. when i tested the battery, with the engine running, my voltmeter read roughly 13.3v with the stock coil. When i upgraded to the MSD blaster coil 8205, my reading was 14.5v.
If you are replacing your heater core with an aftermarket core, ie. summit racing vista pro ready aire heater core, be sure to get the smaller 6" core, or you will have one helluva time trying to fit the 7" in the dash (but the 7" will fit, forcibly).
If you are upgrading your 2G alternator to the 3G alternator, you will most likely need a 3G alt from a 1990-1993 ford taurus 3.8L with 8.25" ear to ear. I tried both the 7" ear to ear and the 8.25" ear to ear. The 7" definitely will not fit. The 8.25" fits but appears to stretch past the end of the tension bracket. An easy fix is to get a shorter than stock belt. problem solved.
If you are wanting to replace your front grill, many of the aftermarket grills will fit according to the year/make/model; however, be advised that the oval FORD name plate emblem varies. Most vendors will automatically offer you the flat oval name plate emblem. Some B-Co's may, or may not, call for the flat name plate emblem. My application need the oval name plate that was not flat, but more of a cup shape, part number E7TZ-8213-AA. before ordering your oval ford name plate emblem for the front grill, be sure to remove the grill and look at the grill emblem to see if it requires the flat emblem or the cup-like emblem.
If you are replacing the complete headlight assembly (including park lights), it is not necessary to remove the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. I considered having a body shop do my headlights/park lights bcuz i didnt want to deal with the hassle. Actually it was easy to replace. Again, windshield wiper fluid reservoir removal is not necessary.
If you have the time, energy, patience, money, etc., the dry rotting, flaking interior trim pieces can be sanded, primered, and painted (excluding the door panels) for a drastic improvement. The only reason painting the door panel would be advised against, is because sweating and rubbing against the panel will ultimately lead to discoloring of the panel and paint residue on your arms and elbows. I repainted my fender panels, speaker grills, ash tray, camper trim, a-panel, etc. Duplicolor worked very well.
Ive done several other mods, but the mods listed required unfortunate trial and error (and unnecessary $$$). Hope this helps the next!!