8.8 to a 9 rear

[Burns]

I want to swap over to a 9" rear, and I have a good deal on a used one from a truck for $200. It's a 5 lug pattern 9" rear end, so I can keep my current rims. I want to make sure it's the same gear, if possible, and if not I'll be rebuilding it. The tag on my current rear reads - "S844A 55 88 9G28" and I have no idea what it means. I'd like to make it a posi rear if I can, and maybe some sort of locker, but lockers are a huge mystery to me. I'm just not sure where to get parts short of JBG, and even then, they seem pricy. If anyone has advice, I'd be very grateful.

 

[Justshootme84]

The Ford 9" will swap onto your 90 Bronco, but you will not have a tone ring for the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) that's i n the Ford 8.8" rearend you have now. Check Miesk5's Homepage for links to solutions to that problem. The second line on your 8.8" ID tag reads "55 8 8 9G28". The gear ratio is 3.55, as the number 3 is often hidden under the tag bolt. It is an open differential, factory limited slip would be "3L55" or "L55" starting the bottom line of numbers. The factory L/S was a Trak-Lok, which is a clutch-type limited slip and OK for mild wheeling. JBG has some for about $220 for your 8.8" rear axle. JSM84

 

[Burns]

I think instead, for now I'll stick with an 8.8 rebuild with a detroit locker. What's the point of having a stronger axle if I still get stuck? /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Plus, I have plenty of time, I don't do anything ******** enough to warrent 3/4 ton gear. Yet.

 

[Justshootme84]

Honestly, I wouldn't go with a Detroit locker or any full locker on your rig if you just do mild wheeling or are not running big tires like 35's-up. The Dana Trac-Lok would be a good choice and about half the cost. It's stupid easy to install, too, in the 8.8" axle.

 

[akford]

Honestly, I wouldn't go with a Detroit locker or any full locker on your rig if you just do mild wheeling or are not running big tires like 35's-up. The Dana Trac-Lok would be a good choice and about half the cost. It's stupid easy to install, too, in the 8.8" axle.

Is this Dana Trac-Lok available at jeffs cause i didnt see it on their site. Also, How much better than fully open does it really make it for a moderate offroader?

 

[Justshootme84]

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32324_...__31_spline.htm

JBG lists at $265, so the Aussie Locker may be a better option.

Any type of traction aide, be it limited slip, posi-, locker or spool/mini-spool, will make a huge difference off pavement. With an "open" differential, the tire that spins and loses traction gets all of the power, while the other tire gets none and just sits there. You can easily get stuck on wet grass, or just pulling into the driveway on uneven ground. The L/S units like the Trac-Lok divert about 50% of the power to the opposite wheel from the one spinning, so both turn and provide more traction than an open diff. For offroad, I run a full spool in the Ford 9" rearend, which locks both axleshafts together all the time. The downside to that is driving on the street and turning a corner, since the wheels rotate at different speed and will slip/chirp with a spool. THis also wears out the tires alot faster, JSM84

 

[akford]

So for me, someone who uses my bronc for a DD and likes to take it out and do some mild 4x4ing would a trac-lok be my best option? I also live in Alaska and there have been many times where my right rear tire gets into some snow and i get stuck. Regardless of 4 wheel drive do you think a Trac-Lok might help out there alot too?

Trak-Lok = kicks in when needed

Air Locker = controlled by driver to fully lock rear axle when desired

spool = makes both wheels always spin, always locked

Do i got those right? thanks

 

[Justshootme84]

Yes, just having the trac-lok in the rear axle will help you out, whether in 2WD or 4WD. Think of it this way: with an open rear and front axles, you realy have only 2 of the 4 wheels driving your rig. Any traction aid in the rear makes it 3-wheel drive when the t-case is in 4hi/4lo, and a traction aid in the front axle too makes it a true 4wheel drive. There is some major difference in driving on snow, ice or slippery surfaces, so that should be a major consideration for you in AK.THe ARB air locker is the cat's meow, but will run close to $2000 for both axles and the air compressor, depending on the labor to install. I've rode in a few rigs set-up with the ARB's, and have only heard of one breaking due to the owner not torqueing the ring gear bolts on a scheduled basis. I prefer a full spool since 90% of my driving in the Broncos is off=highway, either on gravel roads or in mud. It is much harder on axleshafts and front axle u-joints. I run the factory limited slip rear only in my 98 Z-71 and 06 Dodge 4x4 daily drivers, which only see 50% offroad, mostly mud. Having an open front axle on these trucks has gotten me in trouble whenever on an incline, since the wheel on the low side spins and gets all the power.

JSM84

 

[akford]

Yes, just having the trac-lok in the rear axle will help you out, whether in 2WD or 4WD. Think of it this way: with an open rear and front axles, you realy have only 2 of the 4 wheels driving your rig. Any traction aid in the rear makes it 3-wheel drive when the t-case is in 4hi/4lo, and a traction aid in the front axle too makes it a true 4wheel drive. There is some major difference in driving on snow, ice or slippery surfaces, so that should be a major consideration for you in AK.THe ARB air locker is the cat's meow, but will run close to $2000 for both axles and the air compressor, depending on the labor to install. I've rode in a few rigs set-up with the ARB's, and have only heard of one breaking due to the owner not torqueing the ring gear bolts on a scheduled basis. I prefer a full spool since 90% of my driving in the Broncos is off=highway, either on gravel roads or in mud. It is much harder on axleshafts and front axle u-joints. I run the factory limited slip rear only in my 98 Z-71 and 06 Dodge 4x4 daily drivers, which only see 50% offroad, mostly mud. Having an open front axle on these trucks has gotten me in trouble whenever on an incline, since the wheel on the low side spins and gets all the power.JSM84

Thanks alot for the helpful info.

 

[Burns]

Yes, just having the trac-lok in the rear axle will help you out, whether in 2WD or 4WD. Think of it this way: with an open rear and front axles, you realy have only 2 of the 4 wheels driving your rig. Any traction aid in the rear makes it 3-wheel drive when the t-case is in 4hi/4lo, and a traction aid in the front axle too makes it a true 4wheel drive. There is some major difference in driving on snow, ice or slippery surfaces, so that should be a major consideration for you in AK.THe ARB air locker is the cat's meow, but will run close to $2000 for both axles and the air compressor, depending on the labor to install. I've rode in a few rigs set-up with the ARB's, and have only heard of one breaking due to the owner not torqueing the ring gear bolts on a scheduled basis. I prefer a full spool since 90% of my driving in the Broncos is off=highway, either on gravel roads or in mud. It is much harder on axleshafts and front axle u-joints. I run the factory limited slip rear only in my 98 Z-71 and 06 Dodge 4x4 daily drivers, which only see 50% offroad, mostly mud. Having an open front axle on these trucks has gotten me in trouble whenever on an incline, since the wheel on the low side spins and gets all the power.JSM84

Actually, that answered a lot of my questions too. If I do swap to a 9 rear, I've seen 3.50 gear but not a 3.55. Is there any gear that's in both the dana 44 ttb and a 9 rear?

 

[Justshootme84]

Actually, that answered a lot of my questions too. If I do swap to a 9 rear, I've seen 3.50 gear but not a 3.55. Is there any gear that's in both the dana 44 ttb and a 9 rear?

If your 8.8" rear has 3.55:1 gears, the front will have 3.54:1 gears. That is close enough to 3.50:1 to not worry about. You can also get 4.10, 4.56, 0r 4.88 gears for both axles like I have in the 78 Bronco. The 3 stock ratios I know of for the 80-86 Dana44 TTb and the matching Ford 9" rear are 3.00, 3.55 and 4.10. For the D44 TTB and Ford 8.8" rear on 83-up trucks/Broncos, the available ratios are 3.08, 3.55 and 4.10. The 3.00/3.08 gears are best for highway use and give the best gas mileage, while the 4.10's are best for towing or running 33" tall tires. JSM84

 

[Burns]

If your 8.8" rear has 3.55:1 gears, the front will have 3.54:1 gears. That is close enough to 3.50:1 to not worry about. You can also get 4.10, 4.56, 0r 4.88 gears for both axles like I have in the 78 Bronco. The 3 stock ratios I know of for the 80-86 Dana44 TTb and the matching Ford 9" rear are 3.00, 3.55 and 4.10. For the D44 TTB and Ford 8.8" rear on 83-up trucks/Broncos, the available ratios are 3.08, 3.55 and 4.10. The 3.00/3.08 gears are best for highway use and give the best gas mileage, while the 4.10's are best for towing or running 33" tall tires. JSM84

So running a 3.54 d44 ttb and a 3.50 9" rear won't be a problem? I'd like something inbetween, I don't do much highway but I don't tow or run 33" tires yet.

 

[Justshootme84]

You could look for 3.73 gears, or maybe a 3.92.

 

[akford]

So i was just hunting around and decided to look at my axle code, its H9. So from what i searched and found on FSB forums i found that it supposedly has 3.55 gears and limited slip. So does that mean i already have a trak-lock? and does this sound right? also was wondering what 3.55 gears are good for?