driving down the road and the truck stalls, i changed the plugs, wires, and rotor cap and theres still no spark? any ideas and plz remember i'm a girl so thorough explanations plz. also my truck has never had anything wrong with it before and was running great--or so i thought
89 bronco 2
- Thread starter sandie
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
yo
Is there, or was there, a Check Engine Light?
if so..you can do a Self Test on it to narrow down the problem(s) - Self Test by Ryan M
Does starter engage & engine turn over?
When it stalls, will it run after cooling down?
post again pls.; esp if you have a CEL & then did the Self Test
thanx for answering, i'm no mechanic so i had no idea u could do a self test, i'm goin to do that tomorrow after work, yes the check engine light has come on since i bought it, usually after i had been driving for 15 min, or went from a higher speed down to a low speed, it turns over still but wont fire, hasn't run for 3 days now, i'll get back to you again after i've done a self test, although i may not get to it as soon as i would like because i work full time, have a newborn, and i had the truck tower into town and i live out of town so i dont have direct access to it. thanx so much for the help this far sandie
ok, in the self test, you can do the Key On - Engine office (KOEO) since it is not running.
GL!
just to see what would happen i tried to turn it over today and it fired right up. i drove it about 15 miles, almost home and then it stalled again. now i'm waiting to do the self test tomorrow after it gets towed. someone said to tell you it was raining when it quit the first time and today it started raining right before it quit today. does that make any difference? they said something about moisture in the rotor. any ideas please feel free to let me know
i went to tow it today and it started, now i'm wondering what is going on?? can i do a self test even though it runs?
sandie
Just a thought . . .
There have been problems with the Bronco II TFI units, the electronics module that attaches to the back of the distributor. Never had this issue myself, but apparently they would overheat and shut down the vehicle. Once cool, they would start up again.
Replacing this unit is a pain in the ass. It's attached with a couple of inset screws with 5.5mm (yes - 5.5mm!!!) hex heads. Also, some sort of gel has to be applied to the flat back part of the unit where it contacts the distributor (usually supplied with the TFI unit). Possibly for heat transfer???
Anyways, it's just a thought.
And it sounds like it wouldn't hurt to take off your distributor cap and use a hair dryer or something to dry out the inside of your distributor, then carefully re-install the cap. (Actually, I'd try this first, just in case you have a simple moisture issue.)
Good Luck!
CraigK
Just a thought . . .
There have been problems with the Bronco II TFI units, the electronics module that attaches to the back of the distributor. Never had this issue myself, but apparently they would overheat and shut down the vehicle. Once cool, they would start up again.
Replacing this unit is a pain in the ass. It's attached with a couple of inset screws with 5.5mm (yes - 5.5mm!!!) hex heads. Also, some sort of gel has to be applied to the flat back part of the unit where it contacts the distributor (usually supplied with the TFI unit). Possibly for heat transfer???
Anyways, it's just a thought.
And it sounds like it wouldn't hurt to take off your distributor cap and use a hair dryer or something to dry out the inside of your distributor, then carefully re-install the cap. (Actually, I'd try this first, just in case you have a simple moisture issue.)
Good Luck!
CraigK
well you are now the third person to say that that is what is prolly goin on!! i would have never guessed it. thanx for all of the help from everyone. sandie
sandie
today's thoughts . . .
As well as checking out your TFI and thoroughly drying out your distributor, make sure you put a small dab of grease on/into the connections of the ends of each of your plug wires and the coil wire where they attach to the distributor cap. (There is a special grease available at auto parts stores for this, but good old regular grease always works for me.) This will help with water resistance. And make sure all the wires are FIRMLY connected to the cap, especially the center coil wire. Also, check the coil end of the coil wire, and again, put some grease in that connection too.
CraigK
today's thoughts . . .
As well as checking out your TFI and thoroughly drying out your distributor, make sure you put a small dab of grease on/into the connections of the ends of each of your plug wires and the coil wire where they attach to the distributor cap. (There is a special grease available at auto parts stores for this, but good old regular grease always works for me.) This will help with water resistance. And make sure all the wires are FIRMLY connected to the cap, especially the center coil wire. Also, check the coil end of the coil wire, and again, put some grease in that connection too.
CraigK
jaminjimlp
New member
an old trick we used for when water would get in your distributor and get the points wet (before electronic ignitions) was spay w.d. 40 in the cap and on the points because it displaces water and it would fire right up.
may not be your problem but you can try it...
however i think the other fellow may be correct
may not be your problem but you can try it...
however i think the other fellow may be correct
Last edited by a moderator:
andre
New member
90% chance it the module
ad same prom on 2 of my bronco 1990 and my 1989
ps the white grease is "silicone dielectrick compond "prevent heat
ad same prom on 2 of my bronco 1990 and my 1989
ps the white grease is "silicone dielectrick compond "prevent heat
