oil pick-up tube on a 390.

[johnnyreb]

Well maybe one of you older guys might have one laying around . i FOUND OUT WHY I WAS NOT GETTING ---much----OIL IN MY ROCKERS. I don,t even know how I was getting any oil period. I decided to tear back into the motor and find out why. Seems PARTS GEEK SOLD ME THE WRONG PART. Now if you THINK you see them on the internet and THINK YOU KNOW. Take a really good look at it--the ones you see are about 6 inches long---THAT IS THE WRONG PICK-UP. It takes one about 15 inches long and as you all know the sump goes down into the rear lower part of the pan and about 1/2 inch off of the bottom of the pan. MELLINGS---DOES NOT MAKE THEM. I called and talked to a guy buy the name Dakota. He is the tech and knows alot about them. We talked and he tried to find one and he also did not have any luck. He said these people who sale part will say anything to get your money. I have a couple laying around hear some place or I can make one. I wanted you all to know what I found out. Hope everyone is doing good. Take care----Why I did not notice the difference--I guess I was in a hurry and I,ve had 390,s and 428 since the early 70.,s---Lesson learned the hard way.

 

[johnnyreb]

Hello L/Bronco. I hope you are doing good and all your health is going great too.

 

[johnnyreb]

I went looking again for the oil pick up and never had any luck,but I found a bunch of parts I forgot about that I needed for my Fairlane.

 

[johnnyreb]

Anybody have a oil pick-up tube and screen for a 352-360-390-410-427 or 428. I am interested in buying one. Thank you

 

[wyo58]

Anybody have a oil pick-up tube and screen for a 352-360-390-410-427 or 428. I am interested in buying one. Thank you

Johny,
Check this link out:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/18445/10002/-1?msockid=04e88af012ac629910799f0a1301631b

 

[johnnyreb]

Johny,
Check this link out:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/...ered buy FED EX----I MIGHT GET IT NEXT MONTH.

http://

 

[johnnyreb]

I think I,ll just buy the tubing and bending tools and make my own. Alot cheaper then what they are asking. The truck oil pick up IS ALOT DIFFERENT THEN THE CAR ONE--IT IS LONGER TOO.

 

[goodO1boydws]

I think I,ll just buy the tubing and bending tools and make my own. Alot cheaper then what they are asking. The truck oil pick up IS ALOT DIFFERENT THEN THE CAR ONE--IT IS LONGER TOO.

For what its worth, I just put in a GOOGLE search for " oil pickup tube for a ford bronco with a 390 engine in it" (I didn't specify the year, and I don't know if your oil pump and pan are original or aftermarket) ) and what showed up was a large number of photos of DIFFERENTLY configured LONG pickup tubes. Do you know for certain what yours is SUPPOSED to look like-to clear obstructions?

I suspect that the Bronco's model year (or the engine's model year if it was swapped into your truck from a different year Bronco) is going to be one of the biggest determining factors for the pipe configuration to work properly with OEM pumps and pans.

 

[johnnyreb]

For what its worth, I just put in a GOOGLE search for " oil pickup tube for a ford bronco with a 390 engine in it" (I didn't specify the year, and I don't know if your oil pump and pan are original or aftermarket) ) and what showed up was a large number of photos of DIFFERENTLY configured LONG pickup tubes. Do you know for certain what yours is SUPPOSED to look like-to clear obstructions?

I suspect that the Bronco's model year (or the engine's model year if it was swapped into your truck from a different year Bronco) is going to be one of the biggest determining factors for the pipe configuration to work properly with OEM pumps and pans.

Well I had taken the 390 out of a 1974 Ford pick up--king cab. It had bee on fire and had the hood bent and sat for along time beside this corn field. I noticed the driver side valve cover had a hole rusted in it. I took both head off and took all the valves out and cleaned out all the valve seats .Found 1 valve on the driver side with a really small speck in it and replaced the valve and put new seals on them. New timing gears and chain and a HIGH VOLUME MELLINGS OIL PUMP----That was my big mistake. The motor was stock. The HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP IS FOR A MODIFED OR RACING MOTOR. It caused the oil line to stop up--bent the oil-distributor shaft barely. I READ AND FOUND THIS OUT THIS WEEK. I have a new SEALED POWER pump on the way. Plus FORD QUIT MAKING THE REAR SUMP PAN FOR THE 390,S IN 1977. I found out this this week. So now what you use is a FRONT SUMP OIL PAN. I have one and the front oil pump with the regular short tube. It fits down in the pan and gives you about 1/2 inch clearance off the floor of the front sump of the oil pump. Also when you use a 390---don,t use the old square manifold that came on them. They will **** the power and cause the motor to burn up. So get a set of headers for it or a set of the old 390 High Performance manifolds that came on the 66-67 Fairlane GT or Cougar or Mustangs---if you can find them or afford them. I,ll keep you posted of more I get done and what I find out.

 

[johnnyreb]

Well I had taken the 390 out of a 1974 Ford pick up--king cab. It had bee on fire and had the hood bent and sat for along time beside this corn field. I noticed the driver side valve cover had a hole rusted in it. I took both head off and took all the valves out and cleaned out all the valve seats .Found 1 valve on the driver side with a really small speck in it and replaced the valve and put new seals on them. New timing gears and chain and a HIGH VOLUME MELLINGS OIL PUMP----That was my big mistake. The motor was stock. The HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP IS FOR A MODIFED OR RACING MOTOR. It caused the oil line to stop up--bent the oil-distributor shaft barely. I READ AND FOUND THIS OUT THIS WEEK. I have a new SEALED POWER pump on the way. Plus FORD QUIT MAKING THE REAR SUMP PAN FOR THE 390,S IN 1977. I found out this this week. So now what you use is a FRONT SUMP OIL PAN. I have one and the front oil pump with the regular short tube. It fits down in the pan and gives you about 1/2 inch clearance off the floor of the front sump of the oil pump. Also when you use a 390---don,t use the old square manifold that came on them. They will **** the power and cause the motor to burn up. So get a set of headers for it or a set of the old 390 High Performance manifolds that came on the 66-67 Fairlane GT or Cougar or Mustangs---if you can find them or afford them. I,ll keep you posted of more I get done and what I find out.

I also got the innformation of the motor--off of the intake manifold.

 

[goodO1boydws]

You wrote about the high VOLUME oil pump, and mentioned that the oil line stopped up and also that the oil pump drive shaft bent. Did you mean that the distributor-oil pump drive shaft TWISTED?

If so, that twisted pump drive shaft would most likely have been caused by the oil pump having been jammed by a piece of something too hard for the oil pump clearances to allow through-(possibly even a chunk of rust from the rusted valve cover you wrote about).

(The pump pushing enough crud through before it jammed could also explain how the oil line got plugged up.)

(PS. High volume/greater flow rate oil pumps and higher viscosity oil can also be used to compensate for an engine with a lot of bearing wear, as greater bearing clearances can quickly bleed off the initial higher pressure advantage from a high pressure, but normal volume pump, before it gets to all the critical parts.)

 

[wyo58]

I also got the innformation of the motor--off of the intake manifold.

Something that just hit me, the 390 was an FE block as was the 360. The 360 was used in countless trucks in that era. Can you use a 360 rear sump pan and pick up? Just a thought. A front sum on a 4wd used as a 4wd can cause oil starvation on steep up hill climbs.

 

[johnnyreb]

Something that just hit me, the 390 was an FE block as was the 360. The 360 was used in countless trucks in that era. Can you use a 360 rear sump pan and pick up? Just a thought. A front sum on a 4wd used as a 4wd can cause oil starvation on steep up hill climbs.

The oil pump is on the FRONT. Now the 4 whel drives DID HAVE THE LONG PICK UP TUBE----THAT WENT FROM THE FRONT TO THE BACK. Now the cars and 2 wheel drive pick up tube---used the front sump pan. Now on some block--they used a different motor mount

 

[johnnyreb]

You wrote about the high VOLUME oil pump, and mentioned that the oil line stopped up and also that the oil pump drive shaft bent. Did you mean that the distributor-oil pump drive shaft TWISTED?

If so, that twisted pump drive shaft would most likely have been caused by the oil pump having been jammed by a piece of something too hard for the oil pump clearances to allow through-(possibly even a chunk of rust from the rusted valve cover you wrote about).

(The pump pushing enough crud through before it jammed could also explain how the oil line got plugged up.)

(PS. High volume/greater flow rate oil pumps and higher viscosity oil can also be used to compensate for an engine with a lot of bearing wear, as greater bearing clearances can quickly bleed off the initial higher pressure advantage from a high pressure, but normal volume pump, before it gets to all the critical parts.)

 

[johnnyreb]

You can read all about the damage a HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP ---CAN CAUSE IN A ---NON MODIFIED OR NON RACING MOTOR---BUY MELLINGS. Now when the truck caught on fire. It had about 20,000 miles on it . It looked like a brand new motor and I had only drove it about a mile and sit idling while I was doing other work to it.

 

[johnnyreb]

You can read all about the damage a HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP ---CAN CAUSE IN A ---NON MODIFIED OR NON RACING MOTOR---BUY MELLINGS. Now when the truck caught on fire. It had about 20,000 miles on it . It looked like a brand new motor and I had only drove it about a mile and sit idling while I was doing other work to it.

High volume can push too much oil and cause the oil to not go through the oil gallery. ALSO---The new FEL-PRO HEAD GASKETS----DO NOT MAKE THE OIL HOLE BIG ENOUGH TO MATCH THE OIL HOLE IN THE BLOCK. So if you use FEL PRO HEAD GASKETS---MAKE SURE YOU DRILL OUT THE OIL HOLE IN THE GASKET---TO THE SAME SIZE THE OIL HOLE IS IN THE MOTOR BLOCK.

 

[johnnyreb]

High volume can push too much oil and cause the oil to not go through the oil gallery. ALSO---The new FEL-PRO HEAD GASKETS----DO NOT MAKE THE OIL HOLE BIG ENOUGH TO MATCH THE OIL HOLE IN THE BLOCK. So if you use FEL PRO HEAD GASKETS---MAKE SURE YOU DRILL OUT THE OIL HOLE IN THE GASKET---TO THE SAME SIZE THE OIL HOLE IS IN THE MOTOR BLOCK.

Now IF the FE--352--360--390-427--428 is NOT MODIFIED OR IS NOT A RACING MOTOR---USE A STANDARD OIL PUMP.-------IF IT IS MODIFIED OR IS A RACING MOTOR--USE A HIGH VOLUME. You can find this from MELLING ON THE INTER NET.----also ---MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE HEAD GASKETS TO--IF YOU HAVE IT APART AND GONNA PUT NEW GASTETS ON IT.

 

[johnnyreb]

Something that just hit me, the 390 was an FE block as was the 360. The 360 was used in countless trucks in that era. Can you use a 360 rear sump pan and pick up? Just a thought. A front sum on a 4wd used as a 4wd can cause oil starvation on steep up hill climbs.

yES IT IS A FE MOTOR. Yes the pans will interchange on a 352-360-390--427 and 428, Now some has the oil dip stick going straight into the oil pan. Some dip sticks goes into the motor block and some dip sticks are different too.

 

[johnnyreb]

yES IT IS A FE MOTOR. Yes the pans will interchange on a 352-360-390--427 and 428, Now some has the oil dip stick going straight into the oil pan. Some dip sticks goes into the motor block and some dip sticks are different too.

Now taking the oil pan (front sump) off. All I did was got a few pieces of wood and jacked the motor up buy the harmonica balancer and the pan came out the back. I had to do a little jiggleing because I have a single exhaust header pipe on it. I DID NOT HAVE TO UN-HOOK THE HEADER PIPE. Now I can,nt tell you about a 2 wheel drive pick-up . I,m working on a 78 Bronco

 

[johnnyreb]

You wrote about the high VOLUME oil pump, and mentioned that the oil line stopped up and also that the oil pump drive shaft bent. Did you mean that the distributor-oil pump drive shaft TWISTED?

If so, that twisted pump drive shaft would most likely have been caused by the oil pump having been jammed by a piece of something too hard for the oil pump clearances to allow through-(possibly even a chunk of rust from the rusted valve cover you wrote about).

(The pump pushing enough crud through before it jammed could also explain how the oil line got plugged up.)

(PS. High volume/greater flow rate oil pumps and higher viscosity oil can also be used to compensate for an engine with a lot of bearing wear, as greater bearing clearances can quickly bleed off the initial higher pressure advantage from a high pressure, but normal volume pump, before it gets to all the critical parts.)

yes it is the same SHAFT.