94 Bronco front brakes

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Shade tree

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This is my first time doing brakes on a 4x4. I'm going to replace with all new pads and rotors. I got the hub-cap and spring off to find there is a interior piece that requires and specialized tool.

I have look for a repair manual and both do not have the lay out of the 4x4 hub removal.

The tool I go is a bearing locknut socket 6-lug for 3/4 ton vehicles with a Dana 70 series axles. It does not look right. Anyone knows of a good refinance guide to tell me if I have that Dana and the steps to do this project.

Any help would be great full....

 

Rons beast

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Welcome

I have done the brakes on my 96 without any special tools.

I am assuming you have the hubs off and have trouble removing the bearing nuts.

They should not be on tight, just snug, so as not to overload the bearings. The first nut should come off with a light tapping on the flats with a long screwdriver. Tapp them counterclockwise. The nut should come loose in less than 1/4 turn. Spin it off. The second is held in with a retainer that will slip off if pulled straight out. Note that the retainer is keyed to hold the second nut in by aligning small pins and holes. Once this retainer is out, you can remove the second nut the same way as the first. The hub/rotor will now slip off. Catch the bearing, don't let it hit the floor.

reassemble in reverse, don't over tighten the nuts.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

 

miesk5

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yo ST

What Ron cited is for the original auto locking hubs w/ 3 cap screws that do not have as much Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings as compared to the manual locking hubs.

Bearing Locknut Socket pic (OTC 6795 for 95-96 3 *****) Source: by OTC via tooldesk.com

OTC-6795b.jpg

if pic doesn't appear, see it @ http://www.tooldesk.com/images/previewFile/OTC-6795b.jpg

Bearing Locknut Torque for 95-96 3 ***** AUTO Hubs; While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 N-m (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In)."

Source: by Ford via miesk5

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If you have manual locking hubs, use this type for your Dana 44 by our Sponsor here, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard;

Spindle Nut Socket, Dana 44 with 4-prong design spindle nuts.

Item #29625 - New

$15.00

HUBTOOL.JPG


if pic doesn't appear, see it @ http://broncograveyard.com/images/catalog/HUBTOOL.JPG

or at local auto parts stores.

this is a neat idea for the socket;

Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket Bushing Fabrication for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS; "...This spanner socket will start to slip off of the locking nut once you pass 100 ft lbs or so of torque. I even had someone else handling the torque wrench while I used both hands to hold the socket onto the nut. The torque action kept causing the socket to slip off and created lots of frustration for me. I needed a bushing of sorts to keep the socket square on the locking nut.." read more

Source: by Rough Rider (roughrider) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/18644/68331

Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!! Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

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Dana 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ Auto & Manual Locking Hubs & BoM; 6 MB PDF; see page 121 Source: by www2.dana.com

 
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Shade tree

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Thanks for the help and the links you sent me. I will report the out come...

 

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