Wheel Bearings

[fbnwest]

Following up on the last post when S_bolt said get in there and clean up your front end......I happen to be doing just that. I have what is suspected to be a rear end bearing going bad so since I was dismantling to repair the two back ones I decided to knock off the two front ones at the same time so I would know when they were last replaced and what condition they were in.

Got stopped dead in my tracks at Autozone when the guy looked me in the eye and asked whether I had a 3300 lb. axle or a 2800 lb. axle. Any body wanna give me a hint on how to tell?

First off though I should mention all the body panels (fenders etc.) on my rig were replaced by previous owner(s) so I got no tags of any sort to look at. I even got a sneaking suspicion the VIN on my glove box doesn't match the frame, but I tend not to dwell on that. The title matches the VIN but the running gear matches something a year or two earlier.

Was told by a very reliable Broncoholic that I had a Dana 30 in front, but truck is listed as 1971.

How do I determine (without buying both and seeing which fits) which bearing/axle I have?

Anything else to check while I am in there?

 

[Bully Bob]

"Any body wanna give me a hint on how to tell?"

---- REAR -----

10" x 2" brake drum..... '66 thru '75

The rectangular plate (4 bolts) removed to pull axle....Measure the plate holes center to center.

3 5/16" on the long run... 2" on the short run. hole @ 3/8"

----------equals small bearing-----------2800

11x 1 3/4 drum.....'66 thru '75

3 1/2" long run.......2 3/8" short run. hole 1/2"

----- equals large bearing -----3300

There's two more rectangular plate sizes....'74 thru '77 ...they are large bearing as well.

----- FRONT ------

Dana 30 was stock thru '71 1/2

It has "kingpins"...not ball joints...look on top/bottom of the steering knuckle...if it has a small plate with 4 bolts.., it's a Dana 30. (brake line usually attaches to the top plate.)

There may still be a small tag attached to the front dif. cover plate bolt as well ....(hard to see)

I've hunted for yrs., I can't find any vin #'s on my rigs frame..go figure...

"Anything else to check while I am in there?"

Well.., While working the front hubs, & wheel bearings---give a look at the u-joints behind the steering knuckle....and, there's (spindle) bearings & seals there as well.

Might get by W/O doing these now..., but, something to be aware of.

Great post BTW....! >

Makes it so easy to understand... & answer. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Also.., The rear bearings & collars are pressed on & off (if you didn't already notice) the axle shaft.

(if you don't have a press.., a shop will do this pretty cheap)

And, go easy installing/sliding axles back in place....there's an inner seal (or guide)(I believe) inside, near the pumpkin.

HTH

B

 

[fbnwest]

OK, the right rear bearing was pretty much toast. Friend saw what I was attempting and had me take it into his shop for some after hours work, glad I didn't try that in the driveway. Now it doesn't sound like a growling beastie going down the street.

Got all the horror stories told to me of what could have happened if the bearing disintergrated or something, not quite sure seeing the tire pass me on the freeway is an accurate description or not. So it cost me the price of the parts, a twelve pack and two large pizzas.

Now you make this front end sound like a different ball of wax with your edit, maybe I should start from the inside and work my way out?

Not always going to have this type of labor available and if I change it now it should last awhile shouldn't it?

Also, buying a bushing kit for the running gear, any favorites? It doesn't look they have ever been changed, or at least not in this century.

 

[Bully Bob]

Good job..!!! >

".....maybe I should start from the inside and work my way out? Not always going to have this type of labor available and if I change it now it should last awhile shouldn't it?"

Actually it's kinda fun...pull the hub components & lay in order & note face up or down.., & take pics if you don't have a book. Clean & insp. for serious breakage or ware.

Then same-same with the hub & bearings.

If the U-joints aren't loose & seals aren't leaking....you can stop there..or go on & remove the spindles/bearings/seals/axles. (A book helps here but it's really a 1 banana job.) It's a judgement call.

"Also, buying a bushing kit for the running gear, any favorites? It doesn't look they have ever been changed, or at least not in this century."

Are-U ever going to lift it...? If not then the stock bushings are fine. (lift req. diff. "C" bushings)

The "rubber" is better than the "poly" ..it just doesn't last as long....(only 20 yrs... ha..)

Wildhorses in Stocton Cal. has the rubber....not sure 'bout the other suppliers....but they all have good quality.

When repl. "C" bushings...radius arms must be parallel.

& yes...! all this work should hold for 20 yrs. or better, with good care.

All fun projects......safety is paramount...good jack-stands, etc.

Enjoy...,

B

 

[fbnwest]

Not planning on lifting it anymore then it already is, and strangely enough right before checking here I was just reading in JBGs catalog about the C bushings being different for different lifts. So that brings up the question of how do you tell how much lift you already have? I know I read it somewhere on here or classics forum, will go search, but wondered if someone had it off the top of their head.