I think my fuel pump is shot but I wanted ot bounce it off here first. I usually have to apply slight pedal pressure whe attempting to start my truck to get it to run evenly when cold. If I dont it stalls. WHe its running I can hear the pump running pretty steady for a bit. This AM I went to start it, the pump only goes on for a few minutes and then stops. The engine tries to catch but it won't take, it seems like its not getting fuel but has spark because it tries to catch like its getting limited fuel. If it is the pump any reccomendations on what to replace it with?
Trying to start
- Thread starter ms329
- Start date
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Broncobill78
New member
Uhm, yeah. Another pump would be high on *my* list. Do you just have the single HP pump or do you have the low pressure in-tank pump & hi-pressure framerail booster ? If you have the twin pump dealio then it could be either. Single pump system is easier to diagnose but still a hassle to replace.
What's with the spate of dead fuel pumps ?
BroncoJoe19
Active member
To put in a new pump, it requires one to drop the tank.
First check to see if you are getting fuel at the fuel rail.
Then run a fuel pressure check. You can get a 100 psi pressure guage for $25- $40 that will do the trick.
Frankly I turn the key on my Bronco and wait a second or two for the fuel pump to build up pressure and stop, then I crank her up. So if your pump only runs for a couple of seconds, it may be functioning properly.
You may have a hard time starting because you need a tuneup, or have other problems.
joe
Broncobill78
New member
Before deciding to drop the tank ck out the threads on cutting an access hole. Might be something you want to do, might not but it's worth reading what's been said about it before embarking on THAT particular journey. I absolutely second the recomendation to *actually* check what the delivered pressure is before doing anything else, once the pump primes & presurizes the line it's usually pretty freaking silent. Might be dead, might not but it behooves you to ck it out before dropping the tank or cutting into the bed. Joe's right, lots of other things could be causing it to not fire, I'd narrow it down before spending bux on parts and going thru the hassle. The shotgun approach does work but it's often expensive.
Roadkill
New member
I'm with Broncojoe and Dave. I suspect your pump is not the problem. It doesn't say in your post what year your truck is, (or maybe it does but I've been drinking) but since you have electric pump, I'm assuming you have a fuel injected motor. The fact that you need to give it gas to start it troubles me since you engines computer should be able to start the engine without you doing anything other than turning the key. I'd make sure that everything else is working right before you go to the hassle and expense of replacing the pump.
Went out this morning to start checking on what the issue might be, I decide to turn the key, and bang she starts right up!. I let it run to warm up a little, shut it down and started right up again.
Its a 95 w/ a 302 FI
Its a 95 w/ a 302 FI
BroncoJoe19
Active member
I hope you are not feeling lucky. Intermittant problems are the toughest to track down, and most likely it will return at the worst possible moment.
(Do yourself a favor and follow the recommendations that you were given in this thread.
Give your baby a tuneup
take it to get it checked for codes
either pick up a fuel pressure tester, or hookup with a friend who is willing to lend it to you.
regarding tuneup
IF you don't do a fuel pressure test, and you don't know when the fuel filter was replaced... change it.
Ask about a special fuel line disconnect tool when you buy the filter.
Also check your plug wires. If they are old or cracked, they may arc before the spark gets to the plug, causing it not to jump the plug gap. You can use a ohm meeter to check for whatever the specified resistance is, AND in the relative dark with the engine running look under the hood to see if you have any sparks jumping around between the wires and anywhere else. You can also mist a little water with a spray bottle on them to see if they arc then, or if the engine runs rough. If so... replace them. They are a little costly, but with bad wires, your truck may not run in the rain.
:excl: Remember to think SAFETY whenever looking under the hood with a running engine. Don't wear a tie, or a hoodie with cords, or other loose clothing that could get caught in a moving part.
Good luck
joe
THe day I tried to start it it was much warmer then usual..in the upper 40'ds with high humidity, the wires would be a good call. I picked up all my parts tonight, wires, fuel filter, plugs etc to do a tune up Wednesday. I'll let you know how everything turned out.I hope you are not feeling lucky. Intermittant problems are the toughest to track down, and most likely it will return at the worst possible moment.
Do yourself a favor and follow the recommendations that you were given in this thread.
Give your baby a tuneup
take it to get it checked for codes
either pick up a fuel pressure tester, or hookup with a friend who is willing to lend it to you.
regarding tuneup
IF you don't do a fuel pressure test, and you don't know when the fuel filter was replaced... change it.
Ask about a special fuel line disconnect tool when you buy the filter.
Also check your plug wires. If they are old or cracked, they may arc before the spark gets to the plug, causing it not to jump the plug gap. You can use a ohm meeter to check for whatever the specified resistance is, AND in the relative dark with the engine running look under the hood to see if you have any sparks jumping around between the wires and anywhere else. You can also mist a little water with a spray bottle on them to see if they arc then, or if the engine runs rough. If so... replace them. They are a little costly, but with bad wires, your truck may not run in the rain.
:excl: Remember to think SAFETY whenever looking under the hood with a running engine. Don't wear a tie, or a hoodie with cords, or other loose clothing that could get caught in a moving part.
Good luck
joe
ms329
BroncoJoe19
Active member
Excellent!
I hope ... etc. means cap, rotor, and air filter
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />It is now recommended that you use a little dielectric grease on both ends of the wire.
I reccommend that you do one wire at a time, so that you don't get them crossed (a mistake I made more than once in my life time)
Good luck,
and please let us know how you make out.
joe
New plugs, cap, rotor,fuel filter, Fuel Pressure testing at 3200 psi specks call for 3 to 3500. Prior to changing the wires I sprayed the them with a light mist of H20 along with the cap an it still started right up, I bought everything and felt I might as well do it. I even put in a new collant tempeture sensor which can somtimes make it run rough when starting cold. Fresh coolant and flush as well.Excellent!I hope ... etc. means cap, rotor, and air filter
It is now recommended that you use a little dielectric grease on both ends of the wire.
I reccommend that you do one wire at a time, so that you don't get them crossed (a mistake I made more than once in my life time)
Good luck,
and please let us know how you make out.
joe
Last test will be tommorow AM, 14 degrees tonight and the truck is outside, I can't wait to see how she will start in the AM. I'llfollow up soon!
-
A few day s later and it has goten colder! -6 w/ the wind chill and she fires right up!
BroncoJoe19
Active member
Man... I love it when a plan comes together.
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />Thanks for keeping in touch.
IF by chance that didn't fix her, give us a shot, and we can help you trouble shoot her further.
Have a Great Day!
joe
Thanks again for your insight..hope I can return the favor!Man... I love it when a plan comes together.
Thanks for keeping in touch.
IF by chance that didn't fix her, give us a shot, and we can help you trouble shoot her further.
Have a Great Day!
joe
