total engine rebuild

[CSM_Bronco]

i have a 89 bronco with a 351w....blown....as long as im tearing it apart im overhauling it....i want to do a 418 stroker kit....with that said....what will i need to make the engine run good....in terms of the extra ci.....does everything come with the kit? as far as bearings and stuff? the engine is locked up from too much water in the intake....not sure what locked up though....rod, piston, crank.....idk? i was told its one of them.....help please

 

[bidibronco]

You'll have to look at what the kit has in it. All kits should tell you what they contain. Also, I would recomend a 4bbl in leu of that EFI or you're going to have lots of trouble. (I believe the 89 had EFI) Well, enjoy and keep us informed...

 

[FLA Moon Runner]

You'll have to look at what the kit has in it. All kits should tell you what they contain. Also, I would recomend a 4bbl in leu of that EFI or you're going to have lots of trouble. (I believe the 89 had EFI) Well, enjoy and keep us informed...

Yea, I agree the only problem I can see is clearance on the bottom end for the longer rods at 418 you are pushin the stock block. at minimum I would have the block sonic testd for the over bore. and would diff take my time in this rebuild to make sure the rods would clear at the bottom end without hitting or slinging thru the pan. If I was going to go EFI I would do an aftermarket EFI setup on a high rise intake.

 

[bidibronco]

Now that you mention it, I believe there is block clerance with the crank counter weights that have to be addressed. Also, with that size of a bore, you're water jackets are very thin and you'll have an over heating problem unless you get a bad ass cooling system or run super duper rich or N2O. Strait race fuel will help keep it cool too but then you'll run into timing issues unless you know how to get that adjusted correctly. I deffinatly wouldn't do that bad ass of a motor for a daily driver but if it's just a toy then why the **** not? Also, I believe that in doing this motor work you'll have to go a bigger cam wich in turn means you'll need a stall converter or manual tranny and with all the CI under the hood you'll want to make sure your tranny and t-case can handle it along with your rear diff and front diff. If I'm not mistaking that front TTB set up wouldn't like a lot of HP and TQ that a motor like that will make. Anyways, just things to keep in mind, unless it's a play only truck then you may want to think this over a little bit. Not to be an ass but I thought the same thing when I re did my motor and was talked out of it due to the EFI to carb and e4od to C6 swaps. I like the efficiancy of EFI and I like that OD gear in my tranny. Well, good luck to you...

 

[CSM_Bronco]

Now that you mention it, I believe there is block clerance with the crank counter weights that have to be addressed. Also, with that size of a bore, you're water jackets are very thin and you'll have an over heating problem unless you get a bad ass cooling system or run super duper rich or N2O. Strait race fuel will help keep it cool too but then you'll run into timing issues unless you know how to get that adjusted correctly. I deffinatly wouldn't do that bad ass of a motor for a daily driver but if it's just a toy then why the **** not? Also, I believe that in doing this motor work you'll have to go a bigger cam wich in turn means you'll need a stall converter or manual tranny and with all the CI under the hood you'll want to make sure your tranny and t-case can handle it along with your rear diff and front diff. If I'm not mistaking that front TTB set up wouldn't like a lot of HP and TQ that a motor like that will make. Anyways, just things to keep in mind, unless it's a play only truck then you may want to think this over a little bit. Not to be an ass but I thought the same thing when I re did my motor and was talked out of it due to the EFI to carb and e4od to C6 swaps. I like the efficiancy of EFI and I like that OD gear in my tranny. Well, good luck to you...

its positively play only....im also doing the solid axle swap once its runing....dana 60 all around.....i just need to know what else i will NEED to efficiently run this engine at a 418......i did some research and found that the block alone is way beefier than a 302 and that it will gladly take on the 418.....kits go up to a rarely seen 454.....but a more common 427 stroker kit....like i said though.....once i buy the kit....crank, connecting rods, pistons, bearings.......what else will i need?

 

[FLA Moon Runner]

its positively play only....im also doing the solid axle swap once its runing....dana 60 all around.....i just need to know what else i will NEED to efficiently run this engine at a 418......i did some research and found that the block alone is way beefier than a 302 and that it will gladly take on the 418.....kits go up to a rarely seen 454.....but a more common 427 stroker kit....like i said though.....once i buy the kit....crank, connecting rods, pistons, bearings.......what else will i need?

yes the kits go up to 454, but to build this size small block you have to use an aftermarket block. I have built the 454/460 version with a svo sportsman block some time ago and if I am not mistakin at 427 you even have to go aftermarket block, not sure of the 418, but I am confident that the 9 extra cubic inches are in the bore.

Just in case anyone wants the formula for figuring out cubic inches on a V8 it is simple Bore X Bore X Stroke X 6.283

on any other motor keep BxBxSxNumber of Cylindersx.7854

IMO if you are building a true play truck the easiest stroker would be a 460 with a 400 crank ground to accept Chevy rods thus producing 523 cubic inches. This stroker is an easy one to do and has more torque than you will ever need. In fact with this stroker all you need is a competent machine shop to do the grinding of the crank, and if you wanted to you could even go the align boring route and add aftermarket splayed 4 bolt main caps, but this really isn't neccessary.

Now if you happened upon a factory Boss 429 Block (all five main caps are four bolts) this could be punched up to around 598 cubic inches.

Stay away from the 460 stroker using 300 6 cylinder rods as I have seen these emplode once too often

I was combing thru my notes after writing this I think a stock 351 W Block will only accept a 6.00 inch rod length thus giving a a max stroke of 4.00 or in otherwords a max displacement of 402 with a stock bore.

 

[FLA Moon Runner]

yes the kits go up to 454, but to build this size small block you have to use an aftermarket block. I have built the 454/460 version with a svo sportsman block some time ago and if I am not mistakin at 427 you even have to go aftermarket block, not sure of the 418, but I am confident that the 9 extra cubic inches are in the bore.
Just in case anyone wants the formula for figuring out cubic inches on a V8 it is simple Bore X Bore X Stroke X 6.283

on any other motor keep BxBxSxNumber of Cylindersx.7854

IMO if you are building a true play truck the easiest stroker would be a 460 with a 400 crank ground to accept Chevy rods thus producing 523 cubic inches. This stroker is an easy one to do and has more torque than you will ever need. In fact with this stroker all you need is a competent machine shop to do the grinding of the crank, and if you wanted to you could even go the align boring route and add aftermarket splayed 4 bolt main caps, but this really isn't neccessary.

Now if you happened upon a factory Boss 429 Block (all five main caps are four bolts) this could be punched up to around 598 cubic inches.

Stay away from the 460 stroker using 300 6 cylinder rods as I have seen these emplode once too often

I was combing thru my notes after writing this I think a stock 351 W Block will only accept a 6.00 inch rod length thus giving a a max stroke of 4.00 or in otherwords a max displacement of 402 with a stock bore.

I stand corrected you can get upto 427 with a perfect early 351 w, but before you invest into the kit at min I would have the block sonic tested while torqued with torque plates and checked for squarebess thru out. You are the shop that you have the machine work done at is going to have to clearence the bottom of each cylinder for the stroke.

I called upon a friend of mine that works in the engine development dept at yates racing, and Claude said that the biggest probelm with stock blocks was cylinder shifting. And, that for the torque difference he would build a 427 stroker for short term durability. In his opinion the 427 stroker would provide more torque. But if you wanted a decent reliable long term stroker stic k to a 393 stroker with a stock block.