tire studs sheered off

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jsomedaysoon

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my girlfriend and i took the bronco out on the beach over the weekend and the entire time we heard this funny noise/vibration that we were trying to pin point. turns out my 33's had been rubbing the radius arm when we turn the wheel to tight and i think thats what caused two of the studs that hold the tire on to sheer off. allthough i'm not sure if thats exactly what caused it i do know that i have two studs completely gone and a third that is trashed and getting ready to go at any point.

so my question is this. how do you replace those studs that hold the tires on? i know they are cheap but are they easy to do yourself or should i take it to a profesional?

 

Shadow_D

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My thought is the noise was a lose wheel.

Replacing the lugs on the front is real easy, just take a hammer and pound them out then push the new ones back on.

They are a press fit and I have never had any bad luck torquing them into place with an air gun and lug nuts.

If you want to do it the hard way (might be the right way but not sure) you will have to take the rotor off then then remove the hub so you can pound out the old ones and use a press and press the new ones in.

It is a tight fit squeezing the lugs in between the rotor and what ever else is in there I just can't remember what is back there but I know something is there that will make it hard to take the old ones out and put the new ones in.

 

fordfan22585

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that sounds like a lose wheel to me also you might want to check all the other studs for damage and make sure you check the lugs on the other three wheels. what kind of wheel do you have are htey stock or aftermarket? and i would just replace them your self its easy and theres no point in paying someone to do what you can do. just make sure the new studs get seated all the way.

 
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jsomedaysoon

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so i don't really need to take the whole hub off i can just beat them out like they are now? i've got all weekend to figure it out but as always the more knowledge before you start the better haha.

 

KansasBronco

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i think its faster to just take the whole thing off. its just so much easier. and its a good time to repack the bearings....

 

BroncoJoe19

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I recall that we had a thread going a couple of months ago on this subject. I think it was... "my wheel fell off"

At any rate there was general concensus that the problem was probably caused by over torqued lug nuts. It was further suggested that a mechanic with an air gun and not using one of those torque limiting sticks could easily over torque a lug nut.

IF you broke two or three of them, you may want to consider replacing all five.

If I may suggest that you torque them to specs, take her for a ride around the block a couple of times, and then retorque them. Then recheck them at some reasonable time.

 

Broncobill78

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so i don't really need to take the whole hub off i can just beat them out like they are now? i've got all weekend to figure it out but as always the more knowledge before you start the better haha.
Well, you're the one who said you had time to goof around with it :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Sure, as Shadow said you *can* do it without pulling the whole rotor off but it DOES make everything a lot easier if you do. In the end it comes down to what you *feel* like doing. I've had to do this myself (it was actually worse since the wheel was still attached but had destroyed everything else and needed to be *cut* off before I could even begin to deal with the stud issue). At the end of the day it often winds up taking LESS time if you remove the rotor just because you spend so much LESS time dicking around with trying to make things fit or to get your fingers in somewhere. But, hey, that's just MY take on it, there are plenty of ways to fix this.

 
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jsomedaysoon

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ok so i couldnt wait for this weekend and decided to fix the studs last night. all in all it went pretty well. i havent tested it yet because i decided to do the brakes while they were out and exposed. they looked like they would need it pretty soon anyway. i think the hardest part of the whole thing was trying not to get caught staring at my hot neighbor who decided she had to wash her car as soon as i got elbow deep in hub grease. i'm pretty confident with the whole thing the studs popped out pretty easy and went back in pretty easy too. i still dont think i'll breathe that sigh of relief until i test it and the four wheel drive still works haha. thanks for everyones opinions and thoughts

 

Shadow_D

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What no pics of the neighbor??? LOL

Glad you got it fixed, just make sure you have them torqued correctly.

 
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jsomedaysoon

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haha na i couldnt pull that off! maybe next time! thank you everyone for your help. i havent tested it yet because i decided to do the brakes while i was in there. i'm anxious to see if my four wheel drive still works after all that messing with the hub.

 

Broncobill78

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ok so i couldnt wait for this weekend and decided to fix the studs last night. all in all it went pretty well. i havent tested it yet because i decided to do the brakes while they were out and exposed. they looked like they would need it pretty soon anyway. i think the hardest part of the whole thing was trying not to get caught staring at my hot neighbor who decided she had to wash her car as soon as i got elbow deep in hub grease. i'm pretty confident with the whole thing the studs popped out pretty easy and went back in pretty easy too. i still dont think i'll breathe that sigh of relief until i test it and the four wheel drive still works haha. thanks for everyones opinions and thoughts
Well, hot neighbor issues aside, what type of lug nuts were you using when this happened ? Now I'm not sure just WHEN the switch took place but I know I used to have plenty of 78/79's & early 80's Bronco's that all used the single-piece, tapered end acorn-style lug nut. NOW when I flip thru the factory manuals for 87/88 Bronco's I've spotted several bolt print warnings about this. Somewhere along the line Ford switched over to a *two-piece* lug-nut design with a flat-bottomed captive washer on the lower half. The manual is quite emphatic about not using the previous-style lug nuts with current-style wheels or current-style lug nuts with previous-style wheels. Apparently the old-style acorn nuts can/will cause the lugs to snap if used with the wrong set of wheels and the same occurs if new-style lug nuts are used with prev-style wheels. The warning from the factory is to NOT swap wheels between years that use the differents lugs and to NOT use one set of lugs in place of another because the concern is that it can cause the wheel studs to snap. I'll dig up the refrence & scan it for you if you'd like to see it but I thought it might be relevant (although I'm not sure it beats sporting wood for the hot **** nextdoor)

 
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jsomedaysoon

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sorry its taken so long to respond. i just moved and my internet was down for a while. you have me a little concerned now because when i got the new lug nuts i opted for the cheaper acorn style lug nuts. are you saying that these are the ones that break the studs? it originally had the longer ones that cover the whole stud. i'm pretty sure those are factory for that year. and its got factory rims. but now it has 4 new acorn lug nuts. i havent been able to take it out and test my work yet but you've got me curious if i should put the old style bigger lug nuts on first.

 

Broncobill78

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Well, truth be told I'm reluctant to say "THIS IS THE REASON", but I *am* happy to provide you with the relevant portion of the factory manual. This scan is from the 88' manual but I've also spotted the same notice in the 87' manual and can/will scan & post it for you if you'd like to see that one as well. If it were mine I'd read the info & give it some thought, that's as far as I'm willing to go without a set of 86' manuals to refer to. I have the factory manuals for 78/79/87/88 but outside of those I'm clueless. anything that falls in-between those years I can't honestly offer a difinative answer for, not with proof anyways. But I *would* read this and give it some thought since it applies to all PRE-85 vehicles and as an 86' yours would be effected. If I HAD to guess I'd say the lugs may well have caused the failure since this is something that Ford *specifical* states could happen if old/new lugs & rims are intermixed. I hate to say that you maybe did this to yourself but read the info and make your own decision and if nothing else walk away knowing more than you did before. To be honest with you I'd had no idea this issue existed until I started reading the manual for myself just a few weeks ago. after reading *your* experiences and understanding what the manual has to say I'm putting my other books aside for now so that I can read thru the *complete* set of manuals. there's a lot there but it's some good reading. Anyone interested can shoot me a PM and if more than a few of us are interested I'll scan & post the info chapter-by-chapter, or topic-by-topic as interest demands. I can't cover *everything* but I'm sure others here the other manuals that fill in the missing gaps and we can get this done. As we scan & post the info the moderators can segregate & pin the threads so everyone has acces to them before they get lost in the background clutter. But, that's not up to *me*. If not I'll try to fill in the gaps in my library and post the info as I get it. I have the 87/88/89 EVTM manuals & wiring diagrams en route, I'll purchase & post the others as needs dictate. Anyone here is welcome to shoot me a PM if there's something I can look up for them.

Aw, jeez. I feel stupid for forgetting this. The fact is that you *still* need to repair the effected hub. If you want/need the relevant scans for replacing wheel lugs then let me know. I'll scan & post the info for you. In a nutshell, it's pretty easy. use a hammer & drift to knock out the broken studs. Fit the new studs into place and pull/press them into place by pulling them in with the lug nuts. Put a lug nut on there and tighten it as far as you can, loosen & remove it. The first time should get the stud splines engaged with the rotor. Next time around place a stack of washers over the stud and then use the same lug nut to tighten it again. This will "pull" or press it into the splined portion of the rotor. Keep increasing the height of the washer stack until the wheel stud has been completely "pressed" or "pulled" into the rotor. Ck frequently to be sure but once the stud has "bottomed out" in the rotor your work is done and it can now be used to mount wheels. For the next few months always ck the wheel studs for looseness. Better safe than sorry.

sorry its taken so long to respond. i just moved and my internet was down for a while. you have me a little concerned now because when i got the new lug nuts i opted for the cheaper acorn style lug nuts. are you saying that these are the ones that break the studs? it originally had the longer ones that cover the whole stud. i'm pretty sure those are factory for that year. and its got factory rims. but now it has 4 new acorn lug nuts. i havent been able to take it out and test my work yet but you've got me curious if i should put the old style bigger lug nuts on first.
Lug_info_001.jpg

 
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