Tie Rod Over Set-up

[NMBronco77]

I bought all of the parts necessary to build the "1 ton Chevy" type of tie-rod over set-up. Now I am reading that these systems will interfere with the drop track arm bracket (4" lift from Duff) and the front double shock mounts.

Is this what other people have found, and how did you solve the problem?

Should I just sell all these parts (4 tie rod ends and 2 - 1 1/2" diameter Stainless Steel tubes) or is there a way to get around this problem? The track arm drop bracket is securely welded in place and I don't want to remove the front double shocks.

I don't have a droped pitman arm yet because I was going to put in this tie rod over set-up. What is really the best way to go. I definately want to get rid of the inverted "Y" system. What do you all think? Heim joints? 66-76 set-up? Over? Under? ........

I guess I could still use this set-up with the "animal" SST tubes and Chevy rod ends, and just put it under instead of over. I even bought the tapered reamer to do the job ($100) Kinda hate to have it all go to waste. :blush:

 

[Broncoholics]

Don't waste the parts!!! No need for the front shock it only makes for a stiff ride and less suspension travel. Why? When the radius arm drops and a shock is connected to the front, the shock will run out of travel before the suspension and rear shock does. This is why everyone went to the shock hoops. The hoops run the dual shocks side by side just behind the coil so less travel in the shock is requirred. (Cut off the shock bracket on the front so it doesn't hit the steering).

The trac bar drop bracket can be cut off with alot of work and blades. What I did was cut off the drop portion of the bracket flush with the bottom of the frame attachment. Then I built a heim joint trac bar so it attaches to the frame point where the drop trac bar would bolt onto. Is that confusing? Think of this, if the drop trac bar was off you have an area that you can still connect the trac bar to the frame if you run heim joints. The poly bushings are too wide to fit in there. Now its much higher but without a bend in the trac bar you might hit the diff cover under flex. I'm in the process of raising the trac bar mount on the axle to fix this problem. Sure its alot of work but if I bend the tube I have now it will be too short and I ran out of thick wall tube.

If you don't raise the trac bar mount on the axle you will have to cut the 3/4" bolt back 1/2"+ so the steering tube will not hit it. Did I miss anything?

 

[Broncoholics]

Here that photo I was talking about cutting off the bottom area of the drop trac bar bracket so things clear and see where the trac bar mounts to the frame...