Swapping Front Axles

[ljh70bronco]

Can anyone tell me what all is entailed in changing from a Dana 30 axle to a 44 on a 70 EB?

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi ljh.., welcome..!

1st. RU mech. inclined..?

2nd. "SAFTY" is job 1 ..!!

3rd. you need the correct gearing (D-44) as your current rear 9" axle.

4th. (see #2) The frame has to be up a ways & on some healthy stands..! NO wiggle/wobble or ability to slip.!

Then it's basically take the 30 out & bolt in the 44....

----or----

RU looking for a blow by blow/step by step...?

Do fill-in your profile & signature info. on this site so as to rec. correct help & eliminate guess work. i.e. help us help you. >< <'>

Notice my sig. below. It's easy & can be updated as needed. :-B

 

[ljh70bronco]

I am mechanically inclined, but this is my first full restoration project and I've never swapped an axle before. I appreciate the tips. My post was about me making sure I would not get any major surprises.

Hi ljh.., welcome..!

1st. RU mech. inclined..?

2nd. "SAFTY" is job 1 ..!!

3rd. you need the correct gearing (D-44) as your current rear 9" axle.

4th. (see #2) The frame has to be up a ways & on some healthy stands..! NO wiggle/wobble or ability to slip.!

Then it's basically take the 30 out & bolt in the 44....

----or----

RU looking for a blow by blow/step by step...?

Do fill-in your profile & signature info. on this site so as to rec. correct help & eliminate guess work. i.e. help us help you. >< <'>

Notice my sig. below. It's easy & can be updated as needed. :-B

 

[Bully Bob]

You won't have any prob. then. About a 2 banana job. :-"

Once the truck is up & stable., wheels off, take the springs/shocks out, brake line off, tie rod off knuckles, track bar off axle, remove large nuts & bushing on radius arms. once everything is disconnected, maybe put a floor jack under ea. axle tube & roll it forward 'til the rad. arms fall out. don't let'm slam onto the floor. Then pull axle out the side. Remove C-bushing caps.

ASSY.

EA. "C" bushing has to be put in facing correctly.., they're marked.

The (new) C-bushings need to be tightened in rotation (left-side right-side up down, back & forth) so as to keep the rad. arms parallel. (I greased mine for ease of positioning) Put it all back together.

I did mine by myself...having never done one B4. Actually kinda fun & a good time to clean/paint a few things.

Have fun..!! /

P.S. if you plan a lift.., decide now as it takes diff. C-bushings.

 

[Scodge]

The hardest part of the conversion is getting the bolts that hold the caps on the C bushings started, especially if you get the urethane bushings. Get some all thread in the same size as the bolts with about 4 extra inches in length, and a couple of nuts. You only need two pieces to do it. Put them on opposite corners and tighten down with whatever wrench you have that will work. An open end wrench is fine, but will take a lot longer. Once you get the bushing compressed under the cap, you can thread the bolts in the remaining holes and tighten down enough to remove the all thread, then thread the bolts into the remaining holes. This technique will be a huge time and frustration saver. Other then that, it's really just about a few bolts.

An unsecured axle with wheels on it tends to do some crazy things. Be sure to chock both wheels before you undo everything, and move the axle around carefully.

Remember to get a big bottle of brake fluid, you're going to have to bleed your brakes.