Steering hanging up turning to the right

[BronBronBronco]

I have a 1969 Bronco, 3 on the tree with manual steering. Basically pretty stock.

When driving and turning to the right at low speeds the steering seems to hang up like the tire is rubbing , but is not. Really need to crank on steering to turn to the right about half way through the turn. Really notice this when at a stop and then proceed in turning right. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Going to the left is ok.

Any suggestions?

 

[Bronc76]

Have you checked for low fluid or tire pressure? Lubricated all front end parts? Could also be a defective pump.

 

[Bully Bob]

Put your front axles on stands & repeat the turning attempts W/O the weight on the steering system.

Have a buddy cycle left to right while you watch & listen.

From what you describe., it sounds like someone attempted to remove play in the man. steering box by turning in the pre-load adj. ***** on the box. (this could crack the box)

However., it's odd it doesn't bind turning left as well.

Closely examine ALL joints including the axle u-joints.

Turning by hand using the steering shaft fr. under the hood gives a better feel for where the binding begins. Also, moving the wheel by hand.

BTW.., did this just start...? Is there oil in the box..?

Then, if necessary, you can remove the wheels & tierod & move ea. drum by hand to test the kingpins.

---or--- Could be something as simple as a faulty steer. dampener.

HTH

B

 

[BronBronBronco]

I purchased the Bronco about 2 months ago. This problem was there when I bought it.

The manual steering box was empty on fluids as the seals were leaking. Replace both seals & refilled with gear oil. Still feels the same.Did not check the adjuster. Also was no sure if the bearings in the manual box are damaged from lack of 90 weight gear oil.

Also no steering dampner on vehicle.

Strange to me too that it only happens when turning right & not left??? /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I will put it up on jack stands & take a look & feel & see if anything seems out of wack.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Bully Bob]

You're welcome..,

One other test, should nothing show up physically or visually., & the bind is still there even on the stands...,

you could disconnect the pitman arm & move wheels full left & right.

If the bind is gone., it's very likely the prob. is in the box.

Remember that adj. ***** is only meant to be used at the factory., or when re-building.

You can move it back & forth a bit but should not be turned in to remove play. If prev. owner cranked it down...that could be your problem.

If it turns out the box is shot.....good time to convert to power steering.

It's a fun, 2 banana, 1 day job..., & not that expensive.

Probably one of the best up-grades one can do to an EB...!! >

 

[BronBronBronco]

I will try the test in the morning.

I just went out & looked at the adjuster. The ***** head is about 1 1/2-2 threads below the lock nut. Not sure how far it should be adjusted in. Maybe too far?

I just replaced the complete steering column as it was worn out and would not shift at times. I was told if I go to power steering that I would have to change out the shaft in the steering column to work with the new p/s gearbox. I don't know if there is a way around that as I prefer not to do that extra work if not needed.

Thanks again Bully Bob!

 

[Bully Bob]

"The ***** head is about 1 1/2-2 threads below the lock nut. Not sure how far it should be adjusted in. Maybe too far?"

Yep.., that sounds suspicious ...however., wait 'til you test & isolate the prob.

If that's a factory *****., & it's down that far., it could be dangerous.

"I would have to change out the shaft in the steering column to work with the new p/s gearbox"

YES., but it's quite simple. The long manual shaft is tricky to remove...only because of its length. The P/S shafts (2) are easy to install.

If you want to go power...search out a "stock" EB box... long/short it's a good set-up.

I bought two used kits/set-ups....... I think I paid $5-6 hundred. They included pump, box, some pullys, hoses, brackets, belt, pitman arm, & lower shaft. They were filthy., but cleaned up nice & worked perfect.

Only additional cost was upper shaft.

HTH

B

 

[BronBronBronco]

Thanks again Bully Bob! Your a life saver.

A few weeks back you answered a question I had about my steering wheel shaking uncontrollably around 30 mph. I had the tires balanced & it seemed like the problem went away. I took it for another drive yesterday & the problem was still there. I only drive the Bronco after working on it which is not that often as I don't have as much time to do so. My thoughts are that one of two things. Water in the tires and rims. Or two the manual steering box has so much play that at the 25-30 mph speed it just allows the front end to shake side to side. Just my theory for now.

Whats your thoughts?

 

[Bully Bob]

Might need to look into that steering dampener..

Be sure you're not gett'n flat spots on (old) tires from setting....

Possible there's not enough toe-in.

With wheels on the ground., when turning the str. wheel & the pitman arm doesn't move in unison..there's play....even with the ***** that far down.

--or--

all the above..... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[BronBronBronco]

There's no slow speed wobble that I would relate to flat spots on tires.

I will also check your recommendation of the free play at the pitman arm when moving the steering from side to side.

Thanks again for your help! I will let you know what I find.

I just went outside her in Santa Clarita CA and the clouds are rolling in. May have to do the inspection in a few days.

 

[BronBronBronco]

Well I removed the manual steering box and took it completely apart. Cleaned the grunge out and inspected parts.

On the worm gear & worm gear on sector shaft had some damage (see picture below) but not sure the damage is enough to cause the hard steering to the right.

Bearings slightly pitted but otherwise look ok and races are in good shape.

 

[Bully Bob]

With the box out of the loop..., & moving the wheels left/right stop to stop....& there's no bind...then the box is most likely the culprit.

The debris in the bottom of the box is a good clue as to what's missing off the working/meshing parts.

Can't tell much fr. those pics as they're a bit blury--- there appears to be some chunks missing.

----That adj. ***** being about 1/4 inch or more below normal is what worries me.----

The re-build kits are pretty cheap & if you're going to stay with manual....that would be a good approach. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[BronBronBronco]

Thanks Bully Bob!

I found a local that has a p/s pump, cooler & pump with hoses for $300.00 . So all I need is the lower steering shaft to make this work or is there a upper half shaft I need to buy. Not sure what parts to buy for the shaft conversion?

Thanks again.

 

[Bully Bob]

That's a good decision/choice/price..!!

I think you meant a p/s box., cooler., & pump with hoses.......

( I'm assuming you got the mounting brackets for the pump.)

All the P/S set-ups use a two part shaft. Ideally the newer style telescoping lower shaft is best.

Originally., there was a u-joint at the box....a lower shaft.... a rag-joint.., & an upper shaft.

The rag-joint allows for flex & movement so as not to bind up the steering shaft.

---- 6 posts up, I listed the usual items needed. ----

 

[BronBronBronco]

After I get it all back together I will post a follow up letting all know if replacing the steering box cured the steering problem.

Thanks again for your wisdom BB. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[BronBronBronco]

Well I picked up a used manual steering box. Adjuster ***** was up about 1.50 threads above the tightening nut. I took it apart to inspect internal parts. They all look good. Reassembled with new seals. But my question is were should the free play adjuster be adjusted at. I brought the adjuster ***** up all the way till it stopped. Then backed it down about 2 complete turns down. Now there is about 3.50 threads showing versus the 1.50 before taking apart. But the worm gear shaft that connects to the steering shaft turns great.

Just want to be sure that free play adjustment is done right so I don't wear out the box. Maybe people have adjusted both of the steering box's of have before me and adjusted them wrong?

 

[BronBronBronco]

Just bolted up the steering box and took her for a test drive. Steering shake is gone. But steering wheel is still have hard turn going right initially.

Had someone turn steering to right when truck was sitting still. Found ball joint on left side sloppy when this problem occurs. Can see it the ball joint kinda jump.

Well replace & re-test.

 

[Bully Bob]

If it has "ball-joints" ...someone swapped in a D-44

----------In my 1st post I said;-----------

"Then, if necessary, you can remove the wheels & tierod & move ea. drum by hand to test the kingpins."

K-pins.., ball joints serve the same function.

Pre-load on that adj. ***** is a "long story"..... It's not hard (takes about 5 min.) but, req. an inch/pound torque wrench.

Easier done on a workbench/vise but can be done in the veh.

If you don't have a manual...check your local library....

HTH

B

P.S. Somewhere on this board is the complete EB repair manual....Don't recall where off-hand...

 

[BronBronBronco]

The ball joint in the long side of the tie rod. Would not show up with wheels off the ground. But when loaded with weight of vehicle the problem would occur.

So will be ordering a new left side tie rod & right side to play it safe and hope that problem goes away as well. Just strange the problem can only be felt on right turns only.