Second Radiator???

[Orangecrush]

My water gets hot (220+ in summer) with the a/c on. That's not acceptable, obviously. I've tried everything except valve timing (****** a little to make sure all exhuast is exiting). Before I swap motors, I wonder if simply adding a second, custom radiator might solve problems? Anyone ever done anything like this? I wonder where you can find a 10"H x 22"W custom radiator??

My compression is 135 lbs. when cold in all cylinders. I am told that this is well within specs. If that's the case, I can see no reason to dump the current motor. I may be that the Howe aluminum radiator is simply too small to adequately cool my 351w with the A/C on.

 

[Seabronc]

Not sure what radiator you actually have in there, but have you considered going to a 3 or 4 core radiator?

In my truck I have the largest radiator I can get for it which is actually for a truck with A/C which I don't have. It never gets above the thermostat temp by more than a couple of degrees when standing still.

Also, have you flushed your system? That should clean out some of the crud that makes heat exchange less efficient. Could also be that your water pump is getting a little inefficient.

That compression looks fine.

Good luc >- k,

 

[Bully Bob]

Hay Crush...

The elect. waterpump (I might have already mentioned these) & the anti-cavation plate for the stock waterpump, are available at Summit Racing.com.

Like Seabronc says, more cores is the way to go if you still have a two core. (My l'il L6 has a 3 core & struggles to get up to normal temp)

Howe is a good rad. but may not be cored enough.

2 rad. is not the answer......not to mention the mega-hassle getting it all to fit.

BTW, you can call Summit & talk to their tec reps.....they're very helpful

Bob

 

[brownbronco]

Try Redline Water Wetter in the cooling system. That will take 15 degrees off the temp right now. Spending $7 for the Water Wetter beats spends a couple hundred on a new radiator.

 

[Bandit]

My water gets hot (220+ in summer) with the a/c on. That's not acceptable, obviously. I've tried everything except valve timing (****** a little to make sure all exhuast is exiting). Before I swap motors, I wonder if simply adding a second, custom radiator might solve problems? Anyone ever done anything like this? I wonder where you can find a 10"H x 22"W custom radiator??

My compression is 135 lbs. when cold in all cylinders. I am told that this is well within specs. If that's the case, I can see no reason to dump the current motor. I may be that the Howe aluminum radiator is simply too small to adequately cool my 351w with the A/C on.

I had a similar problem,and went with a Wild Horses four core,at the time I couldn't afford the aluminum one,but got the standard four core.I haven't had high temps since.At Moab,on some real slow steep trails,it crept up on me a bit,I went to a Prokooler water pump that pumps more volume at slow speed's ,so far,no problems.

Did you go serpentine on your 351,I'm in the process of ordering a new crate 351,and was considering serpentine,but couldn't figure out a reasonable cost alternative to a 500.00 March set?

BANDIT

 

[Scodge]

General suggestions for keeping a Bronco cooler:

If you're running a brass radiator, take it to a good shop and have them solder off the tanks and clean out the rust. If you've never done it before, you'll be surprised at how much blockage there is in there.

Run a fan shroud.

Make sure you are using antifreeze at 50/50. Some guys try to get tricky and run antifreeze straight, but water actually transfers way more heat than antifreeze, but without antifreeze, water boils way to soon.

Use a 180 degree thermostat. Running without a thermostat actually can make your engine run hotter.

Install a solid fan on a new (not junkyard) fan clutch. Flex fans don't work, and electric fans usually don't move enough air.

The coolant passage on the back of your intake manifold has one threaded port (Should be on the driver's side). Pull the manifold and take it to a machine shop and have a matching port drilled and threaded into the opposite side. Then use threaded 90 degree bend Fittings and hose to bridge the two holes. In the center of that hose, run another hose from a T fitting to your heater return hose. Ford small blocks tend to run 10-20 degrees hotter in the back of the engine. If you can pull that heat away from the motor, it will cool everything else down.

Pull your headers and put your exhaust manifolds back on.

Put your headers back on, but send them to Jet Hot http://www.jet-hot.com/Pages/coatings.html

first for a ceramic coating.

Replace your two row brass with a four row brass radiator.

Replace your 4 row Brass radiator with a two row aluminum radiator.

****** your timing back to 10 degrees before top dead center, and tune your engine for a vacuum advance. Make sure to install a new vacuum advance canister on your distributor.

Get a High volume aluminum water pump. I've had an Edelbrock for over 6 years with no problems.

Install an oil cooler in front of your radiator.

Replace your old worn out temp gauge with a good pro-comp gauge.

Replace the old worn out sending unit with a new sending unit.

Cut the hood and install a hood scoop to get cold air into the carburetor.

Good Luck.