Related problems?

[Jonas148]

Hi there. I have an 88 XLT all stock with a 5.0 liter and Auto. It is giving me issues with starting. I just got this truck and it ran fine until I backed into my driveway to clean it out with the shop vac. I changed one of the battery terminals it was pretty corroded and put it back on, simple enough right? Then it wouldn't start back up. The problem is that it will crank over, but it will not start.

Moreover, it will not even crank without moving the steering wheel (tilt) down a few notches, you know, "jiggle the handle as it were". On top of that, it takes tremendous effort to move the key back into the "off" and "lock" positions.

Does the ignition switch have something else to do besides telling the starter when to engage?

I am new to this so take it easy on me. I have no technical references other than the forums.

My actual questions are:

1. Does the column also control other aspects of the starting system that do not have to do with turning the engine over (it does that)?

2. If the engine actually turns over does it mean the ignition part of the column is working properly?

3. What is causing the key to be so difficult to turn?

Thanks already, I know somebody knows what I have going on here. If anyone has a line on where I can get a factory service manual for an `88 I know I will need one.

Thanks Again.

Jason

 

[Krafty]

if your having problems with your key/ ignition switch, it also sends power to the computer, fuel, and ignition components.

try to run some tests on the fuel and ignition system, if you follow the diagnostic procedures in the haynes manual it will tell you very quickly weather or not your ignition switch is working or not.

 

[Seabronc]

If it is a mechanical problem, (the key is is stiff to move), it probably is in the linkage from the key cylinder to the start switch mounted on the top of the steering column under the dash. There is a long rod that goes down the top of the column between the two. If so, take off the column shroud and see if something seems to be binding the rod. Possibly the ignition switch needs to be removed and cleaned, (mark it's position before loosening and removing, it will make reinstalling it easier. If you don't there is an aligning procedure that will get it back where it belongs).

Good luck,

>-

 

[crazyhorse85]

Like seabronc was saying could be the rod in a bind or trash in the switch causing it to bind up....But it also could be in the ignition switch....The last time my key was stiff when trying to turn it i pulled the switch cleaned it out and shot a spray of poly-**** in there and did wonders....(wd-40 should work just as good)....As far as good shop manuel you might check on ebay...Usually they have alot listed i found both of my ford shop manuels at a flea market for $25.00 each.... B)

 

[50joe]

I have also seen where the connection on the switch where the harness goes in actually melts over time. causes an intermittant contact to the switch. May wanna take a peek for good measure.

 

[Jonas148]

I will be ringing in the new year with a steering column fix!

 

[Jonas148]

Well, I found out why it wouldn't start! It was the little barrel connector up by the battery. Has two wires, (Blk/Gray, and Blk/DkGrn) that were in bad shape. No Idea what they go to, the schematics I have are not the best ones. But the connector was toast, the plastic was oxidized and crumbled in my hands. so I did the cut and splice heat-shrink weatherproof quick fix and it is good to go now...

Does anyone have additional grounds hooked up?

I am a fan of hooking up additional grounds. I did see a write up about that pesky negative ground cable, I plan to do the same as in the post, using heavy gage wire and two separate lengths to ground everything, but my question is do I need to go through and provide additional grounds on any components (i.e. the eec, or gauge cluster etc.)?

Thanks to those of you that replied, I appreciate it!

Happy New Year to everyone! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />