Oil pump

[Burns]

I heard that the 5.0 has oil pump problems, causing valve taps and rattles and just all sorts of bad news. How difficult is it to do, and where do I get the high flow pump? I don't want to get some trashy peice, but does Autozone or Napa have good ones usually? Or would I have to look into specific brand names? And would a 5.0 oil pump be compatible with a 5.8?

 

[Seabronc]

Are you experiencing valve taps and rattles? If so, what is the oil pressure when you hear it? The stock Ford pump is capable of supplying enough oil for normal engine operation. Do you hear the valve noise all the time?

Good luck,

>-

 

[Burns]

Are you experiencing valve taps and rattles? If so, what is the oil pressure when you hear it? The stock Ford pump is capable of supplying enough oil for normal engine operation. Do you hear the valve noise all the time?
Good luck,

>-

It's most noticable when it's getting higher in the rpms, just before a shift. But it's always there now. I only have the stock "idiot gauge" that reads enough/not enough. I was reading around and was looking into an Autometer for a more exact number, but I'm not sure how easy they are to install.

 

[Seabronc]

It's most noticable when it's getting higher in the rpms, just before a shift. But it's always there now. I only have the stock "idiot gauge" that reads enough/not enough. I was reading around and was looking into an Autometer for a more exact number, but I'm not sure how easy they are to install.

A wet pressure gauge is a no brainer. All you need is a brass "T" fitting at the stock location and feed the tube in through a hole in the fire wall, snug your fittings and check for leaks h34r: /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . I ran mine in along side the speedometer cable. I'd pull the valve cover and check the valves to see if any are loose or worn. Replacing rocker arms can be done without removing the heads plus 1/2 the stems have replaceable stem covers that wear over time. There is no rocker arm adjustment except tightening to specifications. They make a valve spring compressor that grips the spring and compresses it by turning a large ****. If you go this far, I'd replace the seals, springs, rockers and valve caps. The procedure is as follows (off the top of my head).

1. Remove your spark plugs

2. Bring the cylinder you are working on to TDC (prevents losing the stem inside the cylinder if it gets away, also, it releases the pressure on the valve stems by the lifters). If it does get away, all you have to do is pull it back in place.

3. Using a compressor set to at least 90 lb and a fitting for the spark plug hole, pressurize the cylinder (that keeps the valve seated and sealed so you can remove the rocker arm and spring).

4. Install the spring tool and compress the spring (CAUTION; there are two small grippers holding the spring to the stem, don't lose them).

5 Remove the grippers, remove the spring and seal

6. Take the old spring out of the tool and install a new one (There are two different springs, one for the exhaust and one for the intake stem, be sure you use the correct spring).

7. reinstall the new seal, spring, stem cap, and rocker arm, tighten the nut to specifications, (Off the top, I believe it is 25 ft. lb. but if you decide to do this, I'll check to make sure that number is correct).

Good luck,

>-

 

[Burns]

Seabronc, you are my hero. Now I just need the parts and a day off where I'm not busy. The guys I talked to said to get into a valve job to fix this, I'd be pretty much taking the top half of the motor apart.

Well, onwards to the planning stage.

Speaking og the gauges, are they safe to mount out of the cab, like on the hood just outside the windshield? I think I will invest in one, and being as tall as I am, not having more things to smack my knees on getting in and out would good.

 

[Seabronc]

Forget step 1, just remove the plug from the cylinder you are working on, (with all the plugs removed at once, the pressure may push the piston down. Disconnect the ignition and use a bump switch to turn the engine over to get the cylinder to TDC. A cylinder will be at TDC when the rotor is pointing at the terminal for the plug you have removed.

Picture of my oil pressure tap.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Burns]

Well, now I've got conflicting stories. I have people (all who have heard the noise) tell me it's valve tap, it's the rocker's/lifters, or it could be some form of octane rattle. Right now, I'm going to baby till wens, when it goes in to the shop for rear shackles and bushings (which, I'd love to do myself, but I don't know which ones need replacing, pressed in bushings, or which ones are good) and while it's in tehre have them check it and give me an idea what it really is.

 

[Justshootme84]

Your stock oil pump should work fine, a will a Melling replacement unit. Problems I've seen are the pick-up tube gets clogged with sludge, or worn main bearings give off some metal shavings that **** the pump. WHat's the mielage on your engine? Does it burn more than a quart of oil/ 1000 miles? Any smoke? Pre-ignition or detonation, often called "dieseling", will occur at higher RPM's/ cruising speed. Most often, a lifter noise is worse at start-up on a cold engine, and get's less or goes away as RPM's increase. IF you have over 150K miles on the motor, it's likely to have worn mains, a stuck lifter, or excessive blow-by that shows up as oil in the air filter. You can do a compression check, and the mechanical oil pressure gauge is a great suggestion from Seabronc. JSM84

 

[Burns]

Your stock oil pump should work fine, a will a Melling replacement unit. Problems I've seen are the pick-up tube gets clogged with sludge, or worn main bearings give off some metal shavings that **** the pump. WHat's the mielage on your engine? Does it burn more than a quart of oil/ 1000 miles? Any smoke? Pre-ignition or detonation, often called "dieseling", will occur at higher RPM's/ cruising speed. Most often, a lifter noise is worse at start-up on a cold engine, and get's less or goes away as RPM's increase. IF you have over 150K miles on the motor, it's likely to have worn mains, a stuck lifter, or excessive blow-by that shows up as oil in the air filter. You can do a compression check, and the mechanical oil pressure gauge is a great suggestion from Seabronc. JSM84

Mileage right now is about 145k. It goes through about a quart per 3000 miles, I don't need to add before an oil change. No smoke, and I'm going to be looking into a pressure guage this morning. I'm pretty sure I have worn main bearings, which is why I try and not use the ac much and run 20w50 oil. Blowby is the PC valve, right? That's getting replaced, since I'm changing my oil and flushing my radiator today anyway.

 

[Justshootme84]

Maybe you can coax another 20-30K miles out of the motor, and the heavier oil swhould help, too. One thing you can do when changing the oil. Take the old filter and cut it open with a hacksaw. Check inside for metal filings (aside from what you get by cutting it open). When I did this onthe 84 351W, I found the filter was clogged with sludge, and the oil was milky-white. That's when I tore down the motor, as it was knocking really bad already. JSM84

 

[Burns]

Maybe you can coax another 20-30K miles out of the motor, and the heavier oil swhould help, too. One thing you can do when changing the oil. Take the old filter and cut it open with a hacksaw. Check inside for metal filings (aside from what you get by cutting it open). When I did this onthe 84 351W, I found the filter was clogged with sludge, and the oil was milky-white. That's when I tore down the motor, as it was knocking really bad already. JSM84

That's the plan, just baby it till I can get my 351w up and ready. Unfortunetly, I already disposed my oil filter (perks of working in a mech shop :lol: ) Found a set of heads, already worked, literally all that's needed is bolt-on, for $400. Found (but dunno if I'll trust it just yet) a full rebuild, upper and lower for $450, only thing missing are connecting rods. And the blocks been honed once and will be again after baked, cleaned, and painted. The conundrum I have now is, I need to save to move for school, but I really want this done. I want to go in to school with some hand's on knowledge, but it might have to wait.