No start, clicking noise heard

[NaturalRampage]

Heya guys, I'm in a bit of a bind here. I've tried what I know before I came to here for help. So my problem is the truck was running fine when I left for the bank, but as I was leaving it would not crank (all within 30 seconds of turning it off and attempting to crank). We got it started eventually by jumping the battery from the positive terminal to a different ground (suspecting the original ground was poor). Here are some Signs and symptoms:

When in run, dome lights are on, but are very dim, use any other load such as lights, it will cut off. The fuel pump is heard running but it very slow and not receiving its proper voltage. Dash lights are very dim as well. If left in run for sometime everything is speeding up very slowly (like increasing voltage very slowly)

When trying to crank the engine everything cuts off or very close to it. 

Now for what I've found during diagnosis:

Battery is at 12.5V

Done voltage drop across the battery cables and are good (.0012V)

I've attempted to clean and repair the original engine ground, but to no avail

Voltage from the positive side of battery through the solenoid to the starter are at 12.5 volts

Solenoid is NOT engaging completely due to low voltage from the trigger wire. (4.9V)

I've made sure there is proper ground for the solenoid, but it is still low voltage

I did jump 12 volts directly to the trigger of the solenoid and it does click and allow voltage to flow, but it does not turn the starter.

This is what i've come to so far, but would it be possible to create a new and solid ground somewhere else on the truck to reassure that the ground is the problem or not. And please some feedback will be excellent for this! I'd appreciate it. Thank you.

 

[Seabronc]

The first thing I would do is remove and clean all connections from the battery + and - sides.  Check the cables for corrosion where the lugs are attached to the cable.  If you have corrosion there scrap the cable and install a new one.  Clean the lug as well as the surface it contacts with.  

12.5 is good for a battery if the engine is not running, but it could read that and still have a dead cell so you may also want someone to do a load test on it.

The low voltage from the ignition switch is probably a bad connection.  If you have an automatic transmission, the netral safety switch, located on the side of the transmission, may be corroded or pretty much trash.  If you have a standard shift the switch is on the clutch pedal.

Good luck,

>-

 

[NaturalRampage]

Heya Seabronc!

I took up on your suggestion and recleaned the connections on the battery, Funny enough after I've replaced the cables and tightened it good, the truck is firing up great! So I think my problem was poor contact at the positive cable. I'm thinking of replacing the cable entirely just to be certain, but that appears to be the root of my problems here. Apparently I have a tendency to overthink simple steps b-( . Thanks again for the help!

 

[Seabronc]

Check the ground connection to the frame and engine also.

>-

 

[Rons beast]

Hey Natch,

Glad you got things sorted.  I had a friend have the same problems.  It was the battery cables, and it was made worse by him putting grease on the battery terminals.  It melted in the underhood heat and caused a weak connection,even with the clamps being tight, so a word against it.  I have found that gluing a penny near the + post draws the corrosion to it and away from the post.

good luck