No Spark!?!

[shift1313]

the noise cap is not technically needed so dont worry about it for now. it is there to reduce interference between your radio and ignition system. The ignition system will create a buzz or hum in your stereo(maybe).

im at a loss finding you a picture of a fusible link but here is one style.

the other style is basically just a wire and it may have a little rubber tag on it. these are basically wires designed to melt or burn up if overloaded. Id say the one for this system is 30-45amp rating maybe, but thats just a guess.

this is the best pic i could find of the other style

it may just look like someone used a butt crimp connector and added this on.

 

[shift1313]

kind of small but this is supposed to be a ford style fusible link

 

[shift1313]

here are some pictures i just took. the first two pics are of an 89 5.0. because of the loom i wasnt able to trace the wires for you. The second pic is at the starter relay to show you a fusible link wire(the green wire in my fingers you can see at the eyelet there is a black plastic block). the third pic is of my 85. i think that big block is another style fusible link ford used on older stuff(but im not sure).

 

[regarrr]

Yesterday I poked my better eye on a branch, and dropped my glasses and they broke. So even though I have an older pair of lenses, it is difficult for me to read smaller print. Therefore I can not check my comment by any authority before I post, so if I ***** up, please forgive me.
I seem to recall that the circuit to the + side of the coil gets its power from the ignition switch, I think in some systems it first it has to go through the NSS neutral safety switch/shift lever position sensor. What has me confused though is that you stated that when you tested the coil with a test light, that you were getting blinking. I think that would indicate that you are getting power, and that the pickup coil inside the distributor is working.

At any rate haynes and chiltons do a good job of walking one through the system, and it looks like you have it pretty well nailed down. Good Job!

Regarding fusible links, I think that they can be replaced with inline fuses. I also think that they are typically within the wiring harness near the battery, and in the newer cars, near the power distribution box. The color of the link depicts the amperage it is designed to carry.

View attachment 7920

Come to think of it, I did read something about coil juice coming from the ignition switch. Sorry to hear about your eye and glasses. I think when I tested the coil with a test light, I did it wrong. You know how sometimes when you test something, It's better to not know what's supposed to happen? Well I knew that the TACH side of the coil to the negative battery post was supposed to give me a rapid flash and it didn't. So when I tried TACH side to battery positive and saw the flash, I thought that was good. Sorry for the confusion, I screwed that up.

I did find 3 fusible links in the wire harnesses over the driver side wheel well. They look like little 1 inch long rubber blocks around a wire. From the points of the white/blue wire that I could check (from the coil to the terminal mounted on my air filter box) for continuity, it was good. I didn't find a fusible link though. I wonder if it was removed at some point. I hope not. I'd rather melt a fusible link than something expensive.

 

[regarrr]

here are some pictures i just took. the first two pics are of an 89 5.0. because of the loom i wasnt able to trace the wires for you. The second pic is at the starter relay to show you a fusible link wire(the green wire in my fingers you can see at the eyelet there is a black plastic block). the third pic is of my 85. i think that big block is another style fusible link ford used on older stuff(but im not sure).

Thanks. I forgot that fusible links could be wire shape too. I found a few rubber block ones like in your third picture. When I traced that White/blue wire (it's about 3 feet long) there was about an 8" section that I couldn't see because it had such a nice wrap around it and I didn't want to tear it up. I felt it for a block fuse link and didn't feel one but it's probably got one that is wire style. Thanks for the pictures. The white/blue wire has continuity all through there though so I don't think I need to worry about the fuse link anymore. Thanks again.

 

[Yardape]

you have continuity but do you have power? Should have power with the key on. Check at the farthest end that you can access and probe your test light into the wire.

 

[regarrr]

Alright. It's fixed and I feel like a stupid dummy. I had my buddy who is an aviation electronics technician take a look at it. He figured it out in five minutes. Granted I am an airframer and wire chasing is far far from my specialty. What had happened is the white/blue wire from the ICM goes to the white/blue wire coming from the positive side of the coil. The other part of the white/blue wire that ran to the terminal mounted on the air filter box connects to that ICM - Coil splice. So it's basically a triple splice. Which is why those wires were all the same color. I didn't realize that three wires could be spliced together so I never even tried it. Sorry for getting everybody so ******* with this. At least if somebody else has this problem they might be able to look at this topic for their solution. Thanks again for all the tips and pointers from everyone. It is greatly appreciated.

On a side note, I got this 87 Bronco for $800 as a trail truck and for here and there errands as well as a learning experience/hobby. It hasn't dissapointed. When it's running, it's one of the best stock off-road vehicles I can imagine. And when it's not running I get to learn a heck of a lot too. Thanks again everyone for all the support. I can't say that enough.

 

[shift1313]

glad you got it worked out.

 

[Nick]

I’m having the similar problem with my 90 bronco the old engine that was in my bronco was shot so I had to replace the engine replaced the engine with a 95 bronco and instead of replacing the computer and the wires in the fire wall we are using the old wiring house everything has power but no spark 

 

[miesk5]

Yo Nick,

Welcome!

Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns

If routing and order are ok, see How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L) @ https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1

Al