Name these parts!

[Bryan93Bronco]

Ok, I'm taking the motor out of the 93 Bronco. I'm wondering what purpose these parts serve and if i need to put them back in with the new motor.

This one is the Carbon Canister. *** is that and do i need it?

What are these 2 stupid coffee can looking things?

All those vacuum hoses and tubes run to the above pictures and to this one below. One of the hoses in this pic runs to the exhaust. Again, ***?

Another weird canister type deal with hoses coming out of it below.

Ok, that's it, whatcha got? I also want to bypass the Thermactor (smog) pump system. Any idea on what belt size i need to bypass it?

 

[Seabronc]

Ok, I'm taking the motor out of the 93 Bronco. I'm wondering what purpose these parts serve and if i need to put them back in with the new motor.
This one is the Carbon Canister. *** is that and do i need it?

The carbon canister is used to collect fumes from the gas tank. I'd suggest keeping it since one of it's functions is to keep the tank from over pressuring when it is warmed up by the sun. The complete system also sucks these fumes out into the intake manifold, (method depends on type of induction (carb or EFI))

What are these 2 stupid coffee can looking things?

One of those stupid coffe can things is used to keep up vacuum for your A/C controls when a load is put on the engine. If it is not hooked up you will either not have any control of the vacuum motors in the duct work or it will switch to defroster output when a load is put on the engine. That all depends on if you rehook to the A/C system or just bypass the whole thing. Neither is recommended.

 

The other one is the muffler for the Air Pump on the Thermactor system.

All those vacuum hoses and tubes run to the above pictures and to this one below. One of the hoses in this pic runs to the exhaust. Again, ***?

That is the line for air from the air pump to the Cat

Another weird canister type deal with hoses coming out of it below.

That is the control that determines if the Thermactor air goes to the heads or the Cat

Ok, that's it, whatcha got? I also want to bypass the Thermactor (smog) pump system. Any idea on what belt size i need to bypass it?

Why do you want to bypass the Thermactor system? Take out what you will, run a piece of rope around the pulleys in the same pattern the existing belt runs and measure it, don't forget to add a little for slack to put it on.

Good luck,

>-

 

[Bryan93Bronco]

Why do you want to bypass the Thermactor system? Take out what you will, run a piece of rope around the pulleys in the same pattern the existing belt runs and measure it, don't forget to add a little for slack to put it on.
Good luck,

>-

I dunno, just looks like a waste of space. Most of the connections are broken or missing anyways, so i figured i'd just get rid of it rather than fixing it.

So if i put the rope around it at it measured say 70" exactly, what length belt should i get?

 

[Seabronc]

I dunno, just looks like a waste of space. Most of the connections are broken or missing anyways, so i figured i'd just get rid of it rather than fixing it.
So if i put the rope around it at it measured say 70" exactly, what length belt should i get?

You will have to do something to satisfy the computer if you remove the Thermactor, like a Oxygen sensor bypass resistor.

I'd add a couple of inches, but you can do the same thing with the existing belt and see how much they added to give installation slack. The tensioner will take up the slack and make the belt tight.

>-

 

[Bryan93Bronco]

if i don't do that will it just throw a code or actually run bad?

 

[Seabronc]

if i don't do that will it just throw a code or actually run bad?

Both, the computer depends on the O2 to know how to adjust the mixture on an EFI. The resister makes it think that the mixture is perfect. The down side of this is that you may run rich or possibly lean. Rich gives you crappier mileage and smelly exhaust and lean can burn a hole in the piston. That is not to say either will happen, but the computer won't know if it is happening and will not adjust to correct it. I'm sure there are people here that will say they run without the O2 sensor with no problems, but it's your engine. Personally, I like to have all the stock equipment running that I possibly can and fix it if it is broke. However, it is up to you what you do with your truck. It definitely is illegal in some states and makes the truck off road only. If you have a real inspection, removal of factory equipment is a cause for failure. In NYS vehicles up to 96 are supposed to have a visual inspection, some stations do it and some don't.

>-

 

[broncobob58]

When we used to have ten year vehicle inspections in connecticut , they failed a friend of mine for not having an air pump on his bronco.It could also effect emission readings enough for it to fail an emmission inspection (if you have them where you live).

 

[Bryan93Bronco]

When we used to have ten year vehicle inspections in connecticut , they failed a friend of mine for not having an air pump on his bronco.It could also effect emission readings enough for it to fail an emmission inspection (if you have them where you live).

I'm lucky, i live in Florida, no emissions test. Good thing b/c all the sports cars i've ever owned and know of have no cats.

 

[Seabronc]

I'm lucky, i live in Florida, no emissions test. Good thing b/c all the sports cars i've ever owned and know of have no cats.

Well, without the Cat there is not much point in having the air pump. The pipe that connects to the back of the heads can be removed but you should cap off the holes or just leave the pipe and check valve. Actually, now that I think of it, you may not have to remove the O2 sensor, the thing to do is to leave it and see how the engine runs.

>-

 

[Bryan93Bronco]

Yeah i planned on leaving the o2 sensor in there. I'm actually afraid it will break if i try and get it out. I'm running a stock y-pipe with the cat in it still. Should i get the cat off or what?