ignition problems

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wejibbaed

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ok so ive got nothing when i turn my key no power no anything ive got power where everything needs it and replaced the solenoid igition mod checked all my grounds not sure whats next ... i dont know where to go from here but i dont want to miss out on all the mud lol if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be great TY

 

BroncoJoe19

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ok so ive got nothing when i turn my key no power no anything ive got power where everything needs it and replaced the solenoid igition mod checked all my grounds not sure whats next ... i dont know where to go from here but i dont want to miss out on all the mud lol if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be great TY
Dear Wejibbaed,

Please explain

where you have power, and when.. IE with the key on and the key off.

How you KNOW that you have power... did you check it with a voltmeter? or did the starter start cranking the engine.

Also where you do NOT have power (where you expect it to be) with the key on and the key off.

What is happening, as you expect that it should,

and what is not happening when you do something that should make it happen.

I realize that it might take you half an hour to write it all up, but the more information that you give us the better we will be able to hlep you.

 
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wejibbaed

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thats just it i have nothing no power when i turn the key the only power i have is my lights horn ect anything affiliated with the key or ignition doesnt work no starter radio rear window there is no power key turned forward or back not sure what else could be wrong the guy at the parts store gave me a relay that is on the steering column after i told him what was wrong maybe that that is it ? wont know till tommorow im not sure how else to explain lol besides it had a 4.9 efi and now has a 302 carb im not sure if i can hook it up like my monte carlo and just have the basic set up without all the wiring? i hope someone can help if anymore info is needed for an answer ill do my best lol thanks in advance

 

BroncoJoe19

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According to the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual, there is a yellow wire that feeds the ignition switch, and it is interrupted by a black fusible link. If that link is fried then you wont' get power to the ignition switch.

IF it is fried, then you will have to locate the short that caused it.

I guess you could have a faulty switch.

Here is a thread we are working on that links to threads that discuss dissassembling, and removing the switch.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=74554

 
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wejibbaed

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i am going to look for the fuseable link in the morn but i hope this isnt whats wrong http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Bronco/P...ing_Column.html

that looks like a PIA lol ive been trying to think about what happend before it went and things that happend when i got it the truck would die out of nowhere but it would turn over and not start for a bit then it would fire up but then one day when i was plowing the yard at work i left it running and it got really hot thats when the problem started luckly it started so i could get it home and there it sits lol if the fusible link is good then i guess off goes the steering wheel and i look at that actuator

 

shift1313

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has the truck run since you did the motor swap or was this the first time trying it?

What tranny do you have in it? did you do a manual to 5 speed swap or the other way around or is it the stock tranny still?

They key doesnt actually do anything except slide a rod up and down the top of the steering column to the actual switch. You need to take off the trim piece around your steering column, or drop the steering column down so you can see this rod. With the lower trim piece off of your dash you might be able to reach your hand around and feel it.

The switch has all the positions of your of your key(on,off,acc,start) and is mounted on two studs which ride in slots. If this unit came loose its possible that you can turn the key but you never get the switch into the on position. Its also possible this switch is fried. To physically get it out of the truck you need to undo the 4 bolts holding your steering column to the dash and drop it down, this is far enough for you to get to it.

Im assuming this truck has not run yet. I believe if you get an 87 eecIV computer from a 302 you can run just the TFI stuff off of it and not worry about the FI.

I may be getting too far into this but how did you attack the fuel pressure issue. Did you remove the electric fuel pump and run a block mounted mechanical unit, or do you have a fuel pressure bypass to bleed off the extra 30 or so psi of fuel?

Can you give us a little more insight on the swap and the wiring done.

 
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wejibbaed

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first off i didnt do the swap so im learning about the truck as i go the truck did run everyday till that one day although it did cut out on me once and a while it would turn over just not start

the tranny is still the stock 4 spd for now the fuel pump is mechanical on the motor and i dont know about the fuel pressure

not sure what the motors from but the guy said it was out of a mustang but who knows lol

i understand the rod that pushes on the column because thats how i have my monte carlo set up with no key and i dont know why i havent tried it yet with the bronco i can see the rod moving but i guess i cant assume that its doing what its supposed to sorry if im not being clear with this lol but thanks for the help im just trying to work out the bugs and clean up the mess that ive got most of the wiring is duct taped together so im checking all the connections and redoing everything then i can worry about the rest of it lol major pia

 

shift1313

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its always fun to finish something that was started by another person :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />.

do you have any idea about the ignition system used? Does your distributor have a vac advance on the side of it? or an electronic module? Im wondering if the previous owner used an old enough motor with a duraspark setup to remove the eecIV computer totally. This would simplify the wiring setup.

are there any emissions equipment left on your truck?

 

BroncoJoe19

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its always fun to finish something that was started by another person :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />.
do you have any idea about the ignition system used? Does your distributor have a vac advance on the side of it? or an electronic module? Im wondering if the previous owner used an old enough motor with a duraspark setup to remove the eecIV computer totally. This would simplify the wiring setup.

are there any emissions equipment left on your truck?
Wwhhhhhaaaaaattttttt!!!!??????

Where/how did you know he did an engine swap?

Seems I can't help out here.. I haven't a clue as to what is going on.

When you responded asking questions about the swap, I thought you were confused and posted your response in the wrong thread.

Oh well... he is in good hands with you Matt. :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

joe

 

shift1313

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yup in his second post he said it used to be an efi 4.9, a much more superior motor, and was swapped for a 302 carb motor. its going to take some digging but we will get to the bottom of it.

 
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wejibbaed

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its always fun to finish something that was started by another person :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />.
do you have any idea about the ignition system used? Does your distributor have a vac advance on the side of it? or an electronic module? Im wondering if the previous owner used an old enough motor with a duraspark setup to remove the eecIV computer totally. This would simplify the wiring setup.

are there any emissions equipment left on your truck?
i was hoping i could bypass everything and only have a few basic wires all the emissions are gone and the distributor has a vac advance i dont know how to set it up with a push button start or i would have already if it would help but i think thats what im going to try tommorow

nothing seems to help so far ive spent most of the day chasing wires and trying to get some power someplace lol and at the same time cleaning up some of the wires and connections that looked like rat nests lol whoever did it used duct tape and wire nuts on everything idk just messy to me

is there a write up on push button start or a forum somewhere that i havent found

and again thanks for the help

 

shift1313

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i have a push button on my 85 but really its just pulling the wires off the switch on top of the steering column that your key linkage/rod goes too. There are some large gauge wires that go to power everything. i believe they are yellow but its been a long time since ive been in there. Since you have an older duraspark setup you just need to have 12v at your coil and thats really it for the ignition system. then you need to supply 12v to starter relay on the fender and it should run. as far as tracking down the other problems there isnt too much i can really help you with over the computer.

just know that if you jumper 12v to your ignition system and you cross the terminals on your starter relay to get the thing running you have no way to shut it off without pulling power from your coil.

 

BroncoJoe19

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i have a push button on my 85 but really its just pulling the wires off the switch on top of the steering column that your key linkage/rod goes too. There are some large gauge wires that go to power everything. i believe they are yellow but its been a long time since ive been in there. Since you have an older duraspark setup you just need to have 12v at your coil and thats really it for the ignition system. then you need to supply 12v to starter relay on the fender and it should run. as far as tracking down the other problems there isnt too much i can really help you with over the computer.
just know that if you jumper 12v to your ignition system and you cross the terminals on your starter relay to get the thing running you have no way to shut it off without pulling power from your coil.
Well then all you have to do is put a little toggle switch in there to turn the power on and off.

YOu might want to put a inline fuse in there also.

Hmmm... I'm thinking that you will need to supply power to your fuel pump relay, and be sure that it goes through the fuel pump inertial safety switch, and your clutch or neutral safety switch too!

 

shift1313

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Well then all you have to do is put a little toggle switch in there to turn the power on and off.YOu might want to put a inline fuse in there also.

Hmmm... I'm thinking that you will need to supply power to your fuel pump relay, and be sure that it goes through the fuel pump inertial safety switch, and your clutch or neutral safety switch too!


Basically all your(I) do is remove the key from the circuit. One thing is my toggle turns the acc on, my push button is just for the starter. I can crank the starter without the toggle(nice for compression tests), and its semi antitheft:) since my truck has no choke. you could hide the toggle anywhere you want.

also Joe, i have a self resetting fuse wired into the starter button circuit behind the dash panel. In case it trips i dont have to fool with it:)

 

BroncoJoe19

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Basically all your(I) do is remove the key from the circuit. One thing is my toggle turns the acc on, my push button is just for the starter. I can crank the starter without the toggle(nice for compression tests), and its semi antitheft:) since my truck has no choke. you could hide the toggle anywhere you want.
also Joe, i have a self resetting fuse wired into the starter button circuit behind the dash panel. In case it trips i dont have to fool with it:)
Yeah Matt,

I was just doing a little CYA here... the earlier post could have been interpreted as just run 12v direct from the battery to the coil. Clearly that would not be a good idea.

Now you have made it clear that you did not intend that, but rather, the wire to the coil is intended to be the original wireing, and that you are only replacing the ignition ON switch with a toggle and that all the safetys remain intact.

 
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wejibbaed

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yup im a dumba$$ lol i decided to chase wires again for the third time and found a splice in the ignition wire as soon as i touched it it broke in half lol spliced them back together and everything was working b-( maybe next time ill drink a few less adult beverages while chasing lol i think the toggle switch in there would be a good idea for anti theft reasons

thanks for all the help

 

shift1313

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my 68 camaro has a barrel key in the drivers door jamb that cuts the power wire going to the ignition system. Its a good idea but easily bypassed by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

89eddie89

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Two days ago I had to call a LockSmith to come and replace my ignition.

For some weird reason my key would not fit into the ignition...

It sucked b/c they said they would be there at 10:30pm but didnt come til 12:30am

:/

 
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wejibbaed

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Two days ago I had to call a LockSmith to come and replace my ignition.
For some weird reason my key would not fit into the ignition...

It sucked b/c they said they would be there at 10:30pm but didnt come til 12:30am

:/
i probly would have gone to advanced and bought a new one there only something like 10$ lol

ill mess with anything till i get it or get it so screwed up i need to have someone else do it

 

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