Ignition Cylinder

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12vbronco

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>>>I have purchased a new ignition switch, key w/cylinder and I am having the hardest time installing it. I bought them from BroncoGraveyard and no instruction where inside the purchase. So I have the switch in and found a bracket to ***** it to the panel. But when I try to install the key and cylinder and I put the key in auxliary it can not get the key out or anything, crying for help.

 

miesk5

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yo 12v!

WELCOME to da Zone!

Lock Cylinder Replacement; "...turn the key to ACC, use a paper clip and push through the small hole in the steering column under the lock cylinder till you feel the pin inside sink a bit, then turn the key to RUN (try the "off but unlocked" position if "run" don't work out), and pull the whole cylinder out. Install the new one in a reverse manner, it may not wanna slide in all the way the first time, and may take a bit of wiggling the key front-back till everything lines up. New lock cylinder with keys is like $12 from AutoZone..."

Source: by M.L.S.C. at FSB

btw, BigAls87 had similar problem due to LOUSY QUALITY by China made cylinders; in the end he returned 3 cyliners to a parts store until he got one to fit. see the Post here @ http://broncozone.com/topic/20556-ignition-key-cylinder/

Lock Cylinder Replacement; "...That pin isn't the ONLY thing holding the lock cylinder in place. The tip of the cylinder that actually works the gear is also keyed, and fits thru a slot in a retaining washer (3E700). If the cylinder isn't in the RUN position, the keyed end is captive in the washer and won't pull out because of the snap ring (3C610). The correct way (and I've done this a few times) is to drill out the key SLOT with a ~5/16" bit; once at each side of the slot so you destroy both sets of wafers & springs. (It helps to break off the chromed bezel first). After they're gone, the cylinder will turn to RUN, and you can press the little button (like normal), releasing the cylinder from the column without ever drilling near something you're NOT gonna replace anyway.Elmo's suggestion assumes you break the keyed end of the cylinder off (not easy or likely) and then rip out the washer & snap ring. There's no need for that kind of destruction. You might as well just replace the column now & save yourself the drilling & fighting..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

GL!

 
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12vbronco

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Well I want to thank you for answering however I am having the hardest time putting back the cylinder still. I'm almost thinking that I need to go buy a new one and try again. Of course return the one purchased from JeffsBroncoGraveyard who still hasn't answered like you have, again thanks. I will try doing it again today after my second cup of coffee then if not I will go to AutoZone.

yo 12v!

WELCOME to da Zone!

Lock Cylinder Replacement; "...turn the key to ACC, use a paper clip and push through the small hole in the steering column under the lock cylinder till you feel the pin inside sink a bit, then turn the key to RUN (try the "off but unlocked" position if "run" don't work out), and pull the whole cylinder out. Install the new one in a reverse manner, it may not wanna slide in all the way the first time, and may take a bit of wiggling the key front-back till everything lines up. New lock cylinder with keys is like $12 from AutoZone..."

Source: by M.L.S.C. at FSB

btw, BigAls87 had similar problem due to LOUSY QUALITY by China made cylinders; in the end he returned 3 cyliners to a parts store until he got one to fit. see the Post here @ http://broncozone.com/topic/20556-ignition-key-cylinder/

Lock Cylinder Replacement; "...That pin isn't the ONLY thing holding the lock cylinder in place. The tip of the cylinder that actually works the gear is also keyed, and fits thru a slot in a retaining washer (3E700). If the cylinder isn't in the RUN position, the keyed end is captive in the washer and won't pull out because of the snap ring (3C610). The correct way (and I've done this a few times) is to drill out the key SLOT with a ~5/16" bit; once at each side of the slot so you destroy both sets of wafers & springs. (It helps to break off the chromed bezel first). After they're gone, the cylinder will turn to RUN, and you can press the little button (like normal), releasing the cylinder from the column without ever drilling near something you're NOT gonna replace anyway.Elmo's suggestion assumes you break the keyed end of the cylinder off (not easy or likely) and then rip out the washer & snap ring. There's no need for that kind of destruction. You might as well just replace the column now & save yourself the drilling & fighting..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

GL!
 

Foul Al

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Well I want to thank you for answering however I am having the hardest time putting back the cylinder still. I'm almost thinking that I need to go buy a new one and try again. Of course return the one purchased from JeffsBroncoGraveyard who still hasn't answered like you have, again thanks. I will try doing it again today after my second cup of coffee then if not I will go to AutoZone.
lol,,,, you will have a few tough spots while installing the new cylinder but keep calm and objective! as for J.B.G. good luck with them! do not deal with Pat! ask for another rep.

the cylinder isnt all that straight foreward, you will have to wiggle and convince the cylinder to seat correctly. good luck and keep us posted on your success.

 

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