Hopefully someone can help me with this. I have a 1996 bronco, and sometimes when i try to star it, the engivne will crank but not turn over. Generally, it happens after sitting for more than 4 hours (ex. in the morning). Sometimes it fires right up and other times it out right just wont turn over, i replaced the spark plugs and wires, but still have the same problem. Any suggestions?
Help starting
- Thread starter daramsey
- Start date
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yo D!
WELCOME to da ZONE!
Have you had it checked for Codes yet for free @ a local parts store?
Check Engine Light (CEL) Overview in 92-96; "...The check engine warning indicator comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning; or a previous Owner or sloppy "mechanic: removed da bulb.
The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park
run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.
Make sure they do da KOER portion; because some are too lazy to do it.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function. or post em here.
Does Horn & radio work in accessory position?
Do headlights come on at all?
If you have a multimeter, get a reading of batty voltage w/everything off; should be at least 12 v
Then have some crank engine and get another reading; should be at least 9.6 V whie cranking in warm weather,
Dirty or loose battery cables: Clean and tighten cables - including grounds
Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles dating back to 1994, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."
Source: by genco1.com
No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the park/neutral safety switch (Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD) that turns the starter over. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to a park/neutral safety switch/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS) Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms such as changing solenoid to starter relay and deleting jumping large terminals on the relay. by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong
WELCOME to da ZONE!
Have you had it checked for Codes yet for free @ a local parts store?
Check Engine Light (CEL) Overview in 92-96; "...The check engine warning indicator comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning; or a previous Owner or sloppy "mechanic: removed da bulb.
The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park
run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.
Make sure they do da KOER portion; because some are too lazy to do it.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function. or post em here.
Does Horn & radio work in accessory position?
Do headlights come on at all?
If you have a multimeter, get a reading of batty voltage w/everything off; should be at least 12 v
Then have some crank engine and get another reading; should be at least 9.6 V whie cranking in warm weather,
Dirty or loose battery cables: Clean and tighten cables - including grounds
Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles dating back to 1994, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."
Source: by genco1.com
No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the park/neutral safety switch (Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD) that turns the starter over. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to a park/neutral safety switch/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS) Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms such as changing solenoid to starter relay and deleting jumping large terminals on the relay. by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong
yo D,
Are you ok?
Are you ok?
