fuel lines and filter

[ToddJerad]

Jumble of questions:

1. Ran car (idle) for about 5 minutes just after changing dist. points to test. Noticed as car got warmed up more, starting seemed difficult (took more key turns and gas to kick than originally). My question is could the fuel filter that I have (all metal casing) and rubber fuel lines I didn't change be causing a problem. The reason I ask is because the lines and filter from pump which are run next to heads become very hot. The fuel filter even touches the heads. This is also the only filter installed in truck. Was thinking of buying aluminum lines or the possibility of running the lines around and away from heads and putting fuel filter on drivers side fender wall. Will this keep gas cooler? I am not knowledgeable of the properties of gas, but assumed hot fuel changed the qualities and performance. Could re-routing and aluminum lines possibly help warmed starting problem and if not at least performance. Also starter, solenoid, batt. cables, points, cap all new, but stock mechanical pump still there (seems to be working initially at least). And if one were to convert to aluminum lines how many feet of lines does it normally take in the EBs (relatively 25, 35?)

 

[Crude dude]

Any heat absorbed by the fuel is bad. I would keep all fuel lines and filter away from the engine and exhaust. Hot gasoline can definitely cause starting problems, its usually called a vapor lock (Google it). Fuel lines are all custom and vary per vehicle. I doubt people measure the lines before and after they install them. Look at BC Broncos , I believe they have a steel fuel line that goes from tank to engine with mounting tabs for a good price.

 

[Bully Bob]

What Crude said...,

PLUS ----- (great post by the way.....you knew that was coming... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> )

"In-line Tube" --- & "Classic Tube" have your stock veh. specific line fr. fuel pump to carb.

It runs up, in front of the head, a few inches away fr. the eng. It's "pre-bent", with fittings, & ready to "rock-n-roll"..!

(exception.., your Holley may line up different at the carb. connection)

The plastic line used by the factory is "bullet proof" & doesn't need changing unless damaged. (But, all lines & switch/valves need be 100% clean & no obstructions)

The plastic fuel line originally, ran right up to the steering box area. (along the frame)

From there, there was a short rubber fuel line-- filter,-- then a rubber line (with some slack) to the "in" side of the pump.

(at least, this is what I've seen on many stock veh.)

If someone cut the plastic line back to the firewall area.., then all you need do is run rubber hose along the frame to that point on the frame near the steer. box & secure that run to the frame...(if ya get my drift..)

You're on the right track here.., but don't feel bad if the prob. doesn't go away after these changes. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

It could be carb. thing, etc. ..... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

"....and rubber fuel lines I didn't change be causing a problem?"

This is not usually a problem unless clamps are loose...or.. they're NOT actual hose "approved" for fuel. (stamped on hose)

 

[ToddJerad]

Thanks guys, this was great help. I looked at in-line and will buy the pump to carb tubing (stainless I assume is better). They only show it for the 289 engine and stock carb (mine is the holley 4b, i think stock was 2?) Will call them to find out. Another interesting point is I think the previous owner installed or at some point changed fuel lines. Hard to tell because of undercoating and wear, but I believe they are not coded or stamped for fuel like Bully said. Previous owner must have changed position of fuel filter since it is inline between pump and carb. May be time to change, should I go with aluminum which people seem to like (some 25' rolls for about 50 bucks) or just use the oem replacement. Will also run lines like Bully said above and see if this helps. Will also rebuild carb to make sure everything is fresh. Also worried about clogged lines since filter was broken when purchased, car was full of dirt, and rubber S-line (not sure name) from main tank was completely cracked. Is it possible tanks are dirty or filled with "gunk" and if so is there a cleaning solution or simple fix to clean tank without me blowing something up since fumes + spark = bad news if pulled? As always thanks for help.

 

[Bully Bob]

"... pump to carb tubing (stainless I assume is better). They only show it for the 289 engine and stock carb "

Reg. steel is fine.... easier to work with (slight bend) if necess.

When you call.., ask if they have an "up-date" for the Holley.

"I think the previous owner installed or at some point changed fuel lines."

The orig. (main line) is "black" hard plastic. if it's metal...it's been changed.

Only the rubber hoses are marked for "fuel" ...not the main line.

"Will also rebuild carb to make sure everything is fresh."

No need to rush into this as yet. ....wait & see how the new line position works.

"..worried about clogged lines since filter was broken "

While lines are disconnected ....simply blow air thru ea. section ...if air passes freely.., they're good to go.

"Is it possible tanks are dirty or filled with "gunk" and if so is there a cleaning solution or simple fix to clean tank "

Don't use any cleaning solution. (makes things worse)

It's poss. there's debris in tank...but no worry unless it eventually plugs the inlet.

That's what a "CLEAR" filter is for...you'll see into the filter. If it gets dirty real quick....then it's time to clean the tank. (this is an easy/safe job) Most rad. shops boil'm for ya.

 

[ToddJerad]

As always extremely helpful, will update with info once done. And will buy a glass filter.

 

[Crude dude]

Be careful to mount the glass filter in a safe place. Have seen some bonehead mounts with those filters. They can crack and then you will have bigger problems than a hard to start Bronco. It is also a good idea to have a filter between the tank and the pump for debris in the fuel tank along with the filter between the pump and the carburetor. Its a cheap addition for a sensitive contraption (Carburetor).

 

[Bully Bob]

"....And will buy a glass filter."

OOPS.....!! When I said "clear" I meant plastic ...... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

It's a tapered, clear plastic bubble.., with "*******" on both ends. You can see the pleated filter media with-in.

Most all auto parts have them.

"Glass" is great.., but un-necessary for your application.

 

[ToddJerad]

Okay, I will use plastic. I already have the fuel filter between the pump and carb. but that was a problem since it was run hanging down on the heads from the carb. I wanted to run the line from the holley 4 carb to above the heads and onto the inner fender wall. than down to the pump. Did not know one was necessary from tank to pump, but will install when I replace lines. Aluminum seems easier to work with than steel and cheaper. Did you guys use the stock clips on the frame or buy some after market ones to mount nicely with brake lines. Also is 3/8" about right for the aluminum lines, didn't pull the old ones off yet but would like to buy the right size to do it all at once. Any other recommendations to make the mounting and connections easier and tighter with new lines. Plus was thinking of spending the money to replace mech. pump. Not sure what psi and other ratings are considered good for my 302?

 

[Bully Bob]

"Did not know one was necessary from tank to pump"

Yes...., necessary.

Forget the filt. between pump & carb. for now.

"...Plus was thinking of spending the money to replace mech. pump"

No.., the pump will dribble out the weep hole when it starts to fail.

However, you can pump clean fuel thru....to make sure it's clean & clear.

"..recommendations to make the mounting and connections easier and tighter with new lines"

Again, I don't recommend you changing the main hard fuel line...unless damaged.

Good "fuel" rated rubber hose where req. is a good thing.

"I wanted to run the line from the holley 4 carb to above the heads and onto the inner fender wall. than down to the pump."

NOOOOO...!! This is bad on so many levels...............................!!!

Todd..., you're no "engineer" for the 5th time, G-E-T A B-O-O-K...for obvious reasons. Stay as close to stock as poss.

 

[ToddJerad]

Book was supposed to arrive a week ago /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> . I have had some help with people that know the truckw. So not doing anything too crazy just my descriptions are bad. Will call the fuel line co. you recommend to get the right bend or steel line from carb to pump like you said anyway so I can't mess it up too badly. Then pump air through the lines to see about clogging. The rubber just looks old, crusty from the old undercoating, and wanted a nicer cleaner look and thought aluminum would be practical and maybe a little better than the old lines. Book will be here soon, but I can promise I'll have more questions. Thanks Crude Dude and Bully.

 

[Bully Bob]

"The rubber just looks old, crusty from the old undercoating, and wanted a nicer cleaner look and thought aluminum would be practical and maybe a little better than the old lines"

Then change the rubber..

Pulling & repl. the main line isn't all that easy....& not done correctly, could come back to bite ya..!

If it's not smashed, bent, cracked, or otherwise damaged....you're better off leaving it be.

"I have had some help with people that know the truckw"

Is this the classic..."blind leading the blind"...?? ....... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> :lol: :lol: (you saw that coming didn't ya..?)

Mr. Todd....., you make my day.., I'll tell ya............!

B

 

[ToddJerad]

If I trusted the opinion of those that think they know, I wouldn't be on this forum /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />. The more I read the more I realize my problem is with the line from pump to car, so replacing with a new steel one is my first priority and then putting in filters from tanks to pump which is absent now. If that doesn't fix problems then Ill be back to "buy a cane" since I can't see.

 

[Bully Bob]

LOL..!!

Well.., I sure hope you're not 6' 4" and 220 lbs. 'cause if we ever cross paths, you'll prob. pound me silly for all the gruff I give ya...!!

But 'til then..., keep-um com'n as you sure take the dullness out of my day.... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

P.S.

LMCtruck.com has the pump to carb. metal line as well. (In Kansas) Page 59 part# 43-5504 (302 V/8)---$24.95

 

[ToddJerad]

I checked out the catalogue and I wish I could see the part, but will order from LMCtruck since they seem like they have the exact one. Tried to look at diagrams, but how do you keep the line and possible fuel filter (plastic if it can withstand engine heat) from pump to carb away from the heat of the heads while keeping the fuel line taught and in-line.

And I'm not 6'4" 280lbs, but I would be worried if I start asking questions relating to cutting the barrels on a shotgun. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Bully Bob]

"...but how do you keep the line and possible fuel filter (plastic if it can withstand engine heat) from pump to carb"

You don't really need the filter between the carb. & pump.

Should a mech. pump fail...it leaks out the "weep-hole" ..to warn you it's dying.

As it gets worse...it won't pump well & eng. may studder at times.

The more it fails.., (little to no pressure) the less it can push "up-hill" to the carb. Any debris can't really swim up-hill.

Having said that....some new carbs have a sintered bronze filt. (or a paper filt.) at the inlet.

"...withstand engine heat from pump to carb away from the heat of the heads while keeping the fuel line taught and in-line? "

The stock fuel line, & the line you're buying runs in "front" of the motor....incoming air passes the line "first" ....then on to the motor...then out the bottom. (note; there is NO cold place under the hood..)

NOW.....,

Should the new line NOT line up with the Holley.... & cutting the line is necessary....that's a good place for a filt..., just for back-up. This should be done 1-2 inches in front of carb....& no way can it touch the eng.

Sooooo, can you actually "load a gun" ...??? :lol: :lol: (I just can't leave it alone...!)

 

[ToddJerad]

Okay, well I think my problem really is the fuel filter getting way too hot. Ill order the lines but have to look to see if my carb is different than the stock 2b.

And.... you have to understand that being born in los angeles means your taught pottery, art, and how to hate people that eat meat. But we still have guns. Lots of them.

 

[Bully Bob]

"....well I think my problem really is..... "

Don't load me up with these types of statments..! (can you believe I let it slide..?)

"I think my problem really is the fuel filter getting way too hot"

Touching the head...yes

& are we going in circles here........???

"....But we still have guns. Lots of them."

Why does this worry me..?

Judging by the following on these threads.., they're gonna want us to take this comedy show on the road...

BTW.., your local library has a dozen books covering all this, & 1000's of other auto related issues...it's all FREE..!

 

[Crude dude]

Maybe im tired....doesnt seem that funny