Front Blues....

[Big_Ford_POS]

Well I just completed my TTB over haul... bushing, ball joints, tierod ends and a gear box. Well I left the stock coils and after replacing the shock ( the old one were completely wiped) the front sit high. the camber looks way off and after driving I'm certain that it seems to have had a 1-2 inch lift. Only thing is everything is stock. What in the ****. I had the alxe halfs removed brought them to work. Replaced ball joints and pivot bushings. I'm confused. I'm seeing it hard to believe that new shocks would rasie it? I didn't replace the coils? Also I'm looking for a inch or two block for the rear to bring it slightly higher than the front or a set of spings. I don;t want to add a leaf because of ride quality but i just might. Thanks guys...

 

[Roadkill]

Have you taken it to an alignment shop yet? All the parts you listed have an effect on front end alignment. Since you've replaced old worn parts with new tight parts, you surely need an alignment.

Your description sounds like it has too much toe-in. If the front is toed in too much, the front tires will try to drive towards each other while going down the road; causing the the axles to pivot downward and raising the front of the truck and throwing the camber off.

 

[Big_Ford_POS]

I am going to get it aligned this week. I still want to lift the rear at least an inch just for looks. I hate the sitting back look as if its overloaded in the rear.

 

[Devil Dog08]

I am going to get it aligned this week. I still want to lift the rear at least an inch just for looks. I hate the sitting back look as if its overloaded in the rear.

i think it looks cool when the bronco is a bit lower in the rear when your cruising down the hwy . it makes it look like a mean running powerhouse

 

[BB33's]

Since you getting it aligned I'll leave that aspect of your problem alone but what about the shocks? When you replaced the shocks if you used a quality gas charged shock it could have raised the height of the truck, especially if the old shocks were worn out hydralic ones.

 

[Justshootme84]

I had a similar experience when I put new shocks on the 84 Bronco before lifting it. The old Monroe magnums were toast, froze up and wouldn't let the springs do there work. When I removed them and put on new ProComp ES9000's, I got 1-1/2" to 2" lift. You still need a new alignment when replacing any of the frontend parts like balljoints or radius arm bushings. As for the rear, keep the rear driveshaft/ rear axle yoke pinion angle in mind. you may get by with a simple zero-rate 1" block, but might need a wedge to correct the angle. You can find blocks at any 4WD parts store like 4Whelparts Wholesalers, Complete Offroad or maybe even Bronco Graveyard. JSM84

 

[Big_Ford_POS]

I thought about the blocks but i'm not sure if i can stack them on the wedge i already have. I put a different rear in it three months ago and the wedges probably will not survive being taken apart again, if they are not already cracked. I was hoping they had a replacement wedge plus an inch or so. The blocks at autozone are alumimum. The wadge is cast iron and brittle. I broke my old set on my first rear replacement ( im on my third rear). Thats why i was considering new set of springs that would bring it up just a little. Thats all i want a little bit of lift. Nothing more than 2 inches. Broncos already have bad angles from the t-case to the rear.

 

[Justshootme84]

The angle I'm talking about is at the rearend pinion yoke, not at the t-case. Where the driveshaft joins the rearend, the yoke on the driveshaft and the yoke on the axle should be close to zero degrees, or almost straight in. You want a bit of anlge (about 2*) so that when you apply power to the axle and it rises up or "spins", the angle goes to zero or the driveshaft is pointing straight at the rear pinion yoke. If the angle here is off more than a few degrees either way, you'll toast the u-joints faster than normal, as well as cause more stress on the suspensino, spring pads, blocks as the axle twists. The best solution for adding lift is with springs, be they an AAL (add-a-leaf) or a new set of lifted springs. An AAL will give you 1-2" lift. AS for the factory wedges, you most often need to keep them installed, even when adding another block on top. They also need to stay in if you install an AAL. Reason being that as you lift the suspension, the driveshaft-to- rearend anlge will increase slightly. So, as you go highe, you need to increase the amount of angle in the wedge under the springs, that's why a 4" lift block is tapered so much, with about 6-8* angle. Only lifting the rearend 2" may or may not affect the rear driveshaft angle. depends on the tranny, t-case and rear axle combo. A shorter driveshaft like you have with a C6, BW 13-56 and Ford 8.8" rear will be affected more than on a Ford 9" rear with a longer driveshaft. Good luck, JSM84

 

[bigtrux]

As far as your camber goes did you replace the camber bushings with adjustable ones when you replaced the ball joints, i know on my 93 i had too made a big differance. just a thought. actually the align shop didn't align it perfectly and it eneed tearing up my passenger side bearings. cost me alot of moneyy but couldn't do nothing about it i'm in cali now and it was done in nc.

 

[Big_Ford_POS]

I allignment seemed to help alot. and it looks normal... I still am debating what to do with the rear, springs or blocks. i will price them and do it in the spring time. I think some new springs and maybe a shackle flip... just a thought. Thanks guys...

 

[92bronco_in_progress]

I allignment seemed to help alot. and it looks normal... I still am debating what to do with the rear, springs or blocks. i will price them and do it in the spring time. I think some new springs and maybe a shackle flip... just a thought. Thanks guys...

all springs will give you a better ride and less axle wrap......but blocks are cheaper and get the job done so it really depends on your wallet