for now

[xsbronco]

I had a post in regard to my power steering box moving....anyways thanks for the unput on that. My rig needs new tie rod ends and I can handle that. My question comes from Highboy73's suggestion to go to dana 60's which of course would be sweet but budget is tight. So, I want to know what are the week points of the dana 44 while running 38's. Housing? I could reinforce cheaper. I know axel size but that doesn't contribute to tie rod failure. If what i want to fix now is steering probs couldn't I just add some stabalizers? Running 2 now but way more room for more? Thanks for the help.....and patience.

p.s. Here is how the sierra mountains were hit with the last snow storms. Not to change the sub.

 

[highboy73]

ball joints,i've got 35's on a 44 and i haven't had any probs but i don't do no real serious wheeling either.

make sure you get some good quality tie rods like moog or something,I bought mine at o'reilly's and got a lifetime on them.

 

[xsbronco]

I'm going to machine some out of 1 1/2" solid 4140 alloy with race ends. At least try too. Found a steel supply place here local. Lots of ideas created.

 

[Broncoholics]

Most are going to the Chevy 1-Ton tie rod ends becasue they are strong, easy to find and flex more than a heim joint. You have to make your own rods with DOM tube, thread the ends of the tube with a left and right hand thread. The drag link connects to the rod end on the passenger side. You will need a tapered reamer to enlarge the holes for the rod end (top or bottom).

See below photos...

 

[Broncoholics]

Forgot to say, I run 38's on a D44. I have OK luck off road using the spicer 5-760X u-joints. The 5-297X snap like twigs. Axle shafts are also a problem. If you upgrade to chromolly with full circle clips you will increase the strength. You can then get CTM or OX u-joints but they're spendy.

I've been running F250 D44 axle shafts, cut down and resplined to fit the early Bronco D44. They seem to be larger in diameter than the stock bronco D44 shafts. I still break them but they hold up longer to abuse and are cheap.

I also added longer bolts for the steering stops so I can't turn as sharp which saves the u-joints. Off road you can feel for traction. Don't slam the gas peddle and tear stuff up. Even D60's will break when a tire jumps in the air with your foot on the gas and returns on ground with traction. So I guess what I'm saying you can get away with the 38's on a D44 if you take proper percautions.

 

[highboy73]

he's right,keep everything well lubed too.

 

[xsbronco]

I will look into the chevy 1-ton ends, thanks for the help.

 

[Broncoholics]

Since you are interested. Here's some more info...

The steering linkages are made using 1985 Chevy Blazer tie rod and drag link ends. The drag link ends are neat because they have about double the amount of travel of the standard tie rod end. I bought mine through Autozone.com which had really good prices.

Autozone Online Prices:

ES2233L $25.99 (draglinks)

ES2234R $24.99

ES2027L $24.99 (tie rod ends)

ES2026R $24.99

For the tubing, I used 1.5" OD x 1/4" wall DOM and then bored it out to accept some threaded rod end adapters. I only did this since I had the adapters and tubing already purchased. If I had to do it again, I would go with either 1.25" OD x .281 wall DOM or 1.5" OD x 0.344" wall (11/32nds). This way you can run the tap directly into the tubing and won't need any threaded adapters. The Chevy stuff does require some special tooling. You need a 7 degree tapered reamer and 7/8"x18 right and left hand taps.

Hope this helps... :blush: