Did I ***** my Cam up or worse

[Donkey-Driver]

So a coupe of weeks ago I installed a new HEI Dist this was due to the fact that my 83 Dist. wore out and no one has a replacement one. Even Ford Mo CO says good luck. My old one has no wires at all going to it nor does it have any advance or adjustment. I have never seen this before. Granted I havent had a lot of contact with older fords. Anyway. I am taking it my 1983 Donkey has a Flat tappet cam in it and the New Dist I was sent what I see now is a steel Gear on it. I find this now to be a bad thing. I was driving down the highway humming along as my truck was running great getting better fuel milage then ever when I heard a backfire from **** followed by a few dozen more while traveling at 65. I got off the go fast pedal asap coasted to a stop. Pulled the dist. cap and turned the truck over using the solenoid behind the battery. The dist. didnt turn like it should so I reach over and I could turn the rotor by hand. I put the old one in just to see if it would work to get me home, as I didnt remove the Duraspark system. It spun normal for a sec. then does the same thing. I can turn it by hand as well. 

I havent checked the cylinders but it turns over fine no funky sounds and no old in the water or water in the oil.

So I have no reference as to what the cam gear looked like but it doesn't look chipped up. Would it just wear the gear out.? 

Also after checking to make sure I have not grenaded my engine or bent anything in the valve train. 

Since I have a stock engine 2 Barrel carb and all the smog equipment. I do plan on at sometime going to a EFI setup 

What CAM should I go with. I live in Denver so thin air is real. I do go into the mountains a lot.

Thanks in advance for any info 

Chris

 

[Seabronc]

Welcome to the Zone, post some pictures when you get a chance.  Also, fill in your profile with the details on the truck.

It is more likely your timing chain or gear that went south. 

>-

 

[miesk5]

Yo Chris,

Welcome!

“Once the gear on either a steel cam or a cast iron cam is worn excessively, the cam itself must be scrapped. There is no repair for this problem, and the only option is to buy a new cam. This can be a painful and expensive mistake.”

Remember to check with your camshaft manufacturer for distributor gear requirements.

Read more @ http://www.onedirt.com/tech-stories/ignition-electronics-efi/selecting-the-correct-distributor-gear-its-all-about-the-details/

Overview; "...On gasoline engines, the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor senses atmospheric pressure to produce an electrical signal. The frequency of this signal varies with intake manifold pressure. The powertrain control module monitors the signal to determine altitude. The PCM then adjusts the E4OD, if equipped, shift schedule and EPC pressure for altitude. Symptoms: Firm shift feel, late shifts at altitude. Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 126-129. by Ford

"How to pick a CAMSHAFT for EFI by Ryan M. (Fireguy50);

For a good fuel injection Bronco cam:

intake duration @ 0.50" should be kept at or under 210

Gross valve lift should be kept under 0.500

Lobe seperation should be at or above 114°

Good 5.0L/5.8L (302/351) EFI hydraulic flat tappet cams:

Comp Cam 35-255-5

* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 214

* Gross valve lift: 0.478 / 0.485

* Lobe separation: 114°

Edelbrock 3782

* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 216

* Gross valve lift: 0.469 / 0.484

* Lobe separation: 116°

Crane Cams 444232

* Duration at .050 in.: 206 / 214

* Gross valve lift: 0.448 / 0.464

* Lobe separation: 114°

Best 5.0L/5.8L (302/351) Roller EFI cam:

89-95 Mustang 5.0L **

Ford Part numbers: E8ZE-6250-CA / F1ZE-6250-AA / F4ZE-6250-DA

* Advertised Duration: 276 / 266

* Duration at .050 in.: 214 / 210

* Gross valve lift: 0.444 / 0.444

* Lobe separation: 115°

Good 7.5L (460) EFI cam:

Comp Cam 34-255-5

* Duration at .050 in.: 212 / 219

* Gross valve lift: 0.490 / 0.495

* Lobe separation: 114°

-------------------------------------------------------

Stock 302

* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 211

* Gross valve lift: 0.421 / 0.447

* Lobe separation: 116°

Stock 351

* Duration at .050 in.: 206 / 221

* Gross valve lift: 0.440 / 0.450

* Lobe separation: 115°

Lightning

* Duration at .050 in.: 198 / 208

* Gross valve lift: 0.416 / 0.445

* Lobe separation: 114°

96-01 Explorer 5.0L ** roller

Ford Part numbers: F4TE-6250-BA

* Advertised Duration: 256 / 266

* Duration at .050 in.: 186 / 197

* Gross valve lift: 0.422 / 0.448

* Lobe separation: 116°

Stock 460

* Duration at .050 in.: 193 / 206

* Gross valve lift: 0.438 / 0.459

* Lobe separation: 111°? (unsure at this time)

But if you have the stock truck computer you are limited as to what you can do. The cams I listed above are about all you have to choose from. If you have a carb, or feel like spending $750-$3000 on programmable EFI you can pick out what ever cam you want.

If anyone buys a higher performance cam than the above limits for a stock truck computer, they will ruin the dependability of the truck. Fuel ratios will be way off, and idle will be so bad the owner will sell the truck.

A mild cam wouldn't necisarily make you fail an emmsions test. But why put in a mild cam without intake and exhaust mods would yeild much of an improment.

I did saying not to......

I'm saying the work and money involved in a mild cam wouldn't give much of a gain.

Camshaft is never a starting point. The stock cam can outperform the intake and exhaust, and possible the heads. you have to look at the total package and replace the week points. Cam is far down the line in weak points

Best 302/351 EFI roller cams:

89-95 Mustang 5.0L **

Ford Part numbers: E8ZE-6250-CA / F1ZE-6250-AA / F4ZE-6250-DA

* Advertised Duration: 276 / 266

* Duration at .050 in.: 214 / 210

* Gross valve lift: 0.444 / 0.444

* Lobe separation: 115°

Can be found on eBay or Mustang forums cheap

Several 1993-95 Gen 1 Lightnings going 11 sec 1/4 times

Good idle, good torque..."

 

[Bully Bob]

"I installed a new HEI Dist this was due to the fact that my 83 Dist. wore out and no one has a replacement one."

Strange...!!   Where did you get the above & what brand is it..??   ( HEI is GM brand name?)

THEY should have known/advised as to its compatibility W/your eng.

Don't see how you can turn the rotor by hand..??  

On both dizzys., is the gear on the bottom of the shaft still locked in place..?

    (meaning when they're out of the eng. & in your hand)

Is the rotor pushed down in place (into the notch) ?