88 Bronco 2 V6 2.9 fuel injected stalls

BobJamisonIII

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I didn't seem to complicated to fix, just seems easier to just buy the whole new distributor assembly, Pop the old out and slide new one in and just put my new new ignition module and new cap and rotor on it. Fingers crossed that this fixes the problem, if not you can find the bronco on Craigslist

 

Bully Bob

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Thumbing thru some of these posts.., didn't see anything about checking timing.

With a timing light hooked up, you may see irratic firing. due to a sloppy timing chain/gears.

May have to rent a timing light anyway, to install a new dizzy.

You may be on to something...., there could be a failure/slop in the dizzy itself.

While at AutoZone, did they pull the codes..?  It's free.

While doing all these tune-up tasks, you may want to insp. the hose on the trannie modulator.

It can lose vacuum & cause hard shifting.

Modulators go bad but I don't think this would cause the issues you're having.

 

BobJamisonIII

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Found an old multi meter and I think I did the test right but I got codes 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, any ideas before I buy the distributor?

 

BobJamisonIII

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Ok so I went out, disconnected to ignition module and tore apart all the wires I could get and found nothing. Found a leaking vacuume line coming from the air filter box to the I take. So I started the truck, running really shitty of course and I grabbed the entire harness and just pulled up on it and the engine started running normal, I let the harness down and it started running bad again so I pulled it back up and it ran good, so now I need to know how do I get the harness that goes down behind the motor and runs what looks like above the tranny. I'm assuming that there is a wire somewhere in there that is bad. But with all the harness open and pulled up I managed to drive it around the block and seemed to run alright. Still would stall when putting it into drive. I put it in neutral and while it jumped up to high idle I puit in drive

 

BobJamisonIII

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Sorry, put it in drive and it wouldn't die. I know this is a lot of random stuff but I really do appreciate all the help guys. And one final thing, can anyone tell me what the vacuum line is running from the little box thing at the front driver side under the hood to the back of the vehicle. This line goes all along the frame back to the back tired but its not connected to anything

 

Seabronc

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That is your evaporative emissions system. It takes fumes of the tank when it gets worm and stores them in the carbon filter tank to be burned when the engine starts.  It also keeps the tank pressure from getting negative or positive with relation to the outside pressure.

:)>-

 
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Seabronc

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That is if the box you're talking about is a black plastic box about 6" x 6" x 4" and also ends up going to the intake.  Pictures are always helpful in diagnosis.

:)>-

 

Seabronc

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In the future, please open a new thread when changing subjects or you have a question that is not related to the original subject.  Some one with the same question won't be able to find it in this thread.

Thanks,

Fred

 

Seabronc

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Go to the top of the forum it applies to and you will find  "new topic" button on the top right hand side.  I'll have to go back and read through the thread.

:)>-

 

Seabronc

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OK.  If this were a carbureted  engine I would suggest a rebuild or replacement.  An engine will not start if the air to fuel mixture is too far off.  In both cases mashing and holding the pedal compensates for too much fuel by holding the throttle plates wide open.  In the EFI engine the computer depends on a small sensor called a TPS to figure out what the position of the throttle plates are. The computer increases or reduces the injector signal based on where it thinks the throttle plates are.  If the TPS is sticking or defective, in this case probably telling the computer the throttle is open wider than it actually is, causing the computer to increases the fuel to the engine.

So, I suspect that the computer is probably responding by sending more fuel than required causing the engine to flood on start up or stall at other times. my primary suspect is the TPS or it's connection to the computer.  Could be the TPS it's self, corroded TPS connector contacts, broken or  shorted wire in the harness, corroded connector contacts where the harness passes through the fire wall, corroded connector to the computer.

:)>-

 
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BobJamisonIII

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Bronco fixed and running better than ever. Thanks again for all the help everyone. Ended up being a bad ground and some other fusable links. Advice, buy multi meter and test wires and fuses and any and everything else before u buy any pets.

 

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