Is it hard to swap transfer cases from electric to manual? So i'm not messing up here buying it for $450.00?
nah specially if your switching to the manual trans, then you can use your old column shifter to control the transfer case, you'll just have to make up a linkage for it, which isn't hard at all. also if you do that make sure anybody you let drive the truck knows the column shifter works the transfer case, that could cause problems.
you can just unplug the wires from the old transfer case and swap the sped o gears if they are different colors (they are color coded for different rears) and trucks with sticks often have lower rears than autos, autos in our trucks typically have 3.55's and manuals will usually have lower gears, if they are different you might want to consider changing the rear axle as one unit, cause its a lot easier than changing out the differential, the front one needs to match the back but I haven't messed with either so I've no advise to give on how to swap it other than once you got it open use lots of brake cleaner and take pictures as you disassemble stuff, thats what I do in unfamiliar territory.
also for the trans swap you'll need to work around the neutral safety switch, I'll try and post a picture of how I did that so you can find the wires easily.
The swap from auto to manual tranny is alot of work, too, so much that I'd rather buy a manual-equipped rig to start with, or stick with your current auto or replace it with a C-6. But there are some other posts on tranny swaps, too. JSM84
I did the conversion from an E4OD to a Tremec RTS overdrive tranny I pulled out of an 83 f150 and my bronco is a 91. I did it in my driveway myself, it wasn't terribly hard but did require some elbow grease. I only ran into trouble with one thing, the starter, should be simple but due to design changes in 8 years I had to cut out a 1/4" shim so it wouldn't constantly hit the flywheel, I still have the pattern and can make more shims for I guess 10 bucks a piece (plus shipping) if somebody needs. Or if you can torch out a shim that sits on a 1/16th inch lip yourself I'll send ya a pattern for nothing (stamps don't cost much).
the parts you'll need to do the tranny swap are as follows
- new drives shafts - you can use the ones from the 88
- new universal joints - better to change them when you have the drive shafts out anyway.
- new clutch kit - pain in the ass to change later best do it now
- bell housing - you can use the one from the 88 or get one meant for an external ***** cylinder
- clutch/brake pedal assembly - you can use the stuff from the 88 there too
- clutch hydraulic line- dealer part only about 80 bucks too
- cross member - the one from the 88 should work if its not rotted apart
- transmission - now where could you find that?
- lots of bolts - I always like to replace old fasteners with fresh ones
- pilot bearing - don't reuse the old one, they only cost 10 bucks
- throwout bearing - don't reuse the old one, they only cost 10 bucks
- ***** cylinder - concentric or external, I like the external cause its cake to work on.
- clutch fork - only if your using the external ***** cylinder
- clutch fork boot - cant have crap finding its way in there
- electrical connector for your reverse switch - you'll need to hook that up to the wires for the auto
- new flywheel - the one from the 88 might be damaged; check it carefully.
- new starter - different size starter for the auto and manual.
- new bolts for starter - some starters take special bolts, I made a sleeve for a normal bolt.
- floor shifter boot - the one from the 88 if it's not junked
- new master cylinder clutch cylinder - unless you KNOW the one in the 88 is newish, sucks when they break
- gasket for in between the transfer case and the transmission - I've seen RTV used for this but the gasket will align itself and some gasket sealant will hold it in place for you.
- New flywheel bolts - Not worth using old bolts
- fluids - ATF for the transfer case, gear oil for the transmission and dot 3 or 4 break fluid for the clutch.
That's all I can think of for the parts list, rough price on new parts 550 - 700 bucks, you might do the job cheaper, but this is to do it with a new clutch, new pressure plate, new master and ***** cylinder hydraulic line, all new bolts, new starter. I kinda assumed the 88 was in pretty rough shape just to be safe.
When you cut a hole in the floor, try using a dremil with a cutting wheel a little at a time so you don't burn carpeting.
When you remove the old brake pedal assembly you can save some time by using a dremil or die grinder to cut the casting being removed out from around the spedo cable. there is enough slack in the cable to just shove it over the 2 inches saved by running it through the casting. Also you should change the vac assist brake booster while you have the pedal assembly out cause you have to unfasten it anyway.
To put the transmission and transfer case in place I just benched the pair of them in, I'd recommend using a jack and an assistant, at least have somebody ready to take you to the hospital if you get your head crushed (I figured that's usually fatal anyway so I just risked it).
With all the parts ready to go, it should take about a 5 or 6 hours under the truck and a couple hours of cursing to change out the pedals. Take out the driver seat so you can lay on the floor with your feet on the back seat, trust me a sore neck really sucks. If you have a lift or access to one and somebody to help ya for the day it can be done in a day without rushing, if you get everything ready ahead of time.
