1986 B2 2.9L acceleration hesitation

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Motech

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Just what exactly is your base ignition timing set at? If you have it too far advanced with SPOUT disconnected--say, 25 BTDC base--that would run pretty decent with SPOUT out. Soon as it's reconnected though, timing will advance 15-20 degrees more at idle, even higher with throttle, and that gorgeous little 2.9 will become all flustered and run wretched.
 
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Jbrownjr

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Time for an update...

Timing is at 12 degrees. (white crayon mark in the attached picture) Last time we checked (almost a month ago it seems) it would idle w/o the SPOUT connector, but not with the SPOUT installed.
This afternoon I started it for the first time in weeks, and it idled...a little rough, but didn't die. I installed the SPOUT and it settled into a nice even purr. o_O
I opened the driver door to get in and take it for a test drive, and it died - as if opening the door made a difference. I took it for a drive anyhow for a few miles and came back to inspect what might be contributing. It was definitely warm under the hood, so I focused on the SPOUT wires, one of which was laying on the valve cover. (Too hot?)
Just for kicks, I used a wire tie and bundled that section of the main wiring harness away from the valve cover. A few times I also noticed the fuel pumps weren't running (for that first few seconds) until I tucked those wires closer to the right fender. (We replaced the main wiring harness, and removed all plastic tubing to ensure no wires were shorting. We never did tidy them up because we've been troubleshooting for months.

Again, for good measure, I ensured the SPOUT was installed and started her up. A little feathering and she settled into a purr once again. 🤔 Took it for another drive, this time without having to feather the throttle at stop signs. Intentionally idling for extended time during that test drive, it seemed to run fine!
I swear, the only significant change was tying those wires together and out of the way. All I can figure is they've been routed (as designed) for decades, and we disrupted that during our swap and troubleshooting. For any good wire, it shouldn't matter how it lays, but these must be very accustomed.

(There will be a brief pause once again...we swapped gas caps along the way to troubleshoot fuel pressure (also have a 1997 Ranger with a locking gas cap). Along the way, that Ranger needed a transmission rebuild, so it's been at a shop for more than a month while the mechanic is trying to solve that issue. The BII is just about empty of fuel, and I can't refuel without the gas cap key, which is with the Ranger in another city 30 minutes away.)
There are many pieces we've removed over the past few years that need re-assembly. (Needs a muffler, inside molding from replacing the headliner, etc.) My son (who really wanted it 2 years ago) is now off to college and ready to sell this one. I get to finish putting her back together and find a buyer.

I assume this will be one of the last posts in this thread as the "acceleration hesitation" appears to be solved. Anyone chasing this down due to similar symptoms...there are a dozen similar threads which all end in a unique way. (No common root cause) I hope the story has been entertaining, saving you the hours-and-hours of frustrating, grease-under-the-fingernails, oil-stained driveway and garage floor, and space occupied by spare parts from many trips to the junkyard.

What an adventure it has been!!!
Thanks to everyone who's been monitoring this thread over the past few months. Y'all helped us bring it to closure (just about) and I SO appreciate that. :giggle:
 

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Tiha

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What a wild ride that was.

I suppose there could be some kind of magnetism affecting the resistance, also heat affects resistance. Even with all that there could a loose splice in the harness that you just tightened up.

How frustrating to get this far. Glad you got it going though.
 

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