1984 B2 EB edition

[JRHollester]

First off new to forum and couldn't find anything about this in the forums here. I recently bought a 1984 Bronco 2 Eddie Bauer edition. It has the 4 speed manual tranny with overdrive. Took it to get emissions testing, hole in resonator now fixed with straight pipe. Then found a leak in the rear main seal, fixed after 2 week in shop. But the problem I have now and have the whole time and can't get a straight answer from any shop I talk to is whenever the engine is running the is a clicking sound, sounds like it is going to explode. No other leaks or overheating or anything really. Is there anything I can do to fix this or is it ok to drive on a 1200 mile journey and possibly back.? Thanks in advance for any help.

P.S. Plan to swap the engine as soon as I have the money for a 302 or 347 crate motor. Any suggestions would be appreciated for that too.

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

Is there any way to record the tick?

We will be able to help you out better with the actuall noise...

In order to swap in a 302 or 347 is not as easy (or cheap) as buying a crate motor and setting it in the engine bay.

(It would be nice though!) Full-size power in a mini rig is fun, yet challenging...

Here is a list of components off the top of my head that will need to be changed:

1. Engine mounts

(I have heard of the stock I4 mounts being able to work with modifications)

2. Radiator

(V6 radiator cooling a V8 = Overheated)

3. Transmission

(Stock B2 will not hold to v8 power for long)

4. Tranfercase

(if equipped)

5. Rear axle

(Stock B2 will not hold to v8 power for long)

6. Driveshafts

(Due to the different running gear)

7. Body mounts

(If you have a 4x4 rig, the engine will not clear the body, minimum 2" of lift required)

8. Suspension

(If you have a 4x4 rig, the engine will not clear the front axle, need a suspension lift)

9. Tires

(With all the lifts, stock tires will just look funny)

10. Rims

(The bolt pattern from mini to fullsize changes)

11. Gauges

(All the new hardware probably will not hook up to the stock gauges)

(Speedometer, Tachometer, Ammeter, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Water Temperature, Oil Temperature, ect.)

A few other notes:

1. I am not sure if you are EFI or not, but if you are; a new pump or a regulator must be installed to run a carb.

2. The heater box must be modified to clear the valve covers of a V8.

3. If emmissions testing is required in your area, do not expect to pass with a V8 swap!!

4. Buying a complete donor vehicle is the best way to insure you have all the parts that work together for a swap.

 

[JRHollester]

Here is a link to the recording of the engine.

http://www.vkdvd.net/recordings/Clicking engine_0504180405.caf://http://www.vkdvd.net/recordings/Cli..._0504180405.caf

That seems like a lot of money and time to do that swap. What about like a 4.0? Or would it be better to just leave the 2.8 carb motor in it?

It looks like you have to download it and it plays in Quick Time. Sorry had to use my phone to get the sound. Again thanks for any help.

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

Please fix your link!!

With a 4.0:

Wireing harness

Possibly engine mounts

(old ones might work)

Possibly gauges

(depends on if this engine sends a different signal)

Possibly radiator

(I do not think the stock will support a bigger engine)

Will need to check to see if the 4.0 will bolt to your transmission

-Defintely simpler!!

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

How do you play a .caf??

 

[JRHollester]

How do you play a .caf??

If you have a MAC it should play normally. For PC's, took me a while to find the right program, you need to have QuickTime installed and play it with that. Here is the link again I don't know what happened before.

http://www.vkdvd.net/recordings/Clicking

I have also tried to attach the file but still a .caf file and not permitted to be uploaded.

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

All I got was 1.03 seconds of static...

I have Cool Edit Pro 2.0... it will play just about anything, but either it is a bad file or a bad recording, cause I got nothing!

 

[JRHollester]

The file is 37 seconds long and works fine in QuickTime. You can get it here.

http://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

Dude, it is like a 20 minute download.

Please convert it into a .wav or an mp3

 

[JRHollester]

I will add a better one in a deifferent format in the morning and make it shorter. Also I will try to add it as an attachment.

 

[JRHollester]

Sorry it took so long to get this recorded and uploaded but ut took me a while to find an app with a different format. But here it is attached and also it is only 10 seconds and in wave format.

New_recording_961346616.wav

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

I thought we lost ya!

That sounds like lifter tick to me...

This can be due to somethings as simple as dirty oil passageways or too heavy or too light of an oil. When is the last time you have used some kind of engine flush? What is the weight of oil that you use? What climate do you live in? What brand of oil do you use?

Please answer these questions, I would be glad to help you as much as I can!

~J

 

[JRHollester]

Never engine flushed. Just heard about something called SeaFoam from a friend, planning on using it in a couple weeks. 10w-30 not sure the brand. When I had the rear main sea replaced they put in new oil. I live in the Phoenix area so hot to very hot climate. After using the SeaFoam I know I need to change the oil again like the next day after running it for about 30-60 min. What brand, kind, and weight oil do you suggest?

 

[Jimmy Neutron]

Use the Seafoam product according to the directions on the can. I have used it many times with satisfactory results.

The weight of the oil I would use would depend on how many miles are on your engine. A low milage engine has tighter tolerances than a high milage engine. The more space the oil has to travel though, the heavier weight of oil should be used. Since we are hearing a lot of lifter tick, I would start using 10w40 after your engine flush. Especially if you are over the 100,000 mile mark, which you most-likely are. I have a truck with over 400,000 miles that requires 20w50 racing oil to maintain decent oil pressure. Once a vehicle gets to that point in its life, I would not depend on it for daily driving or long trips.

As to which brand of oil...

This might be an interesting post. Some or most may not agree with what I have to say. I have tore down many engines in my lifetime thus far. The ones that I tore down that used the cheapest oil they could find had lots of oily, waxy, sludge in every valley and surface of the engine. This is not good! The brands I have not found this occuring with are Valvoline, Mobile 1, Kendall, and AMS oil. Mobile 1 is not a true synthetic in my eyes, after some extensive research and heated discussion on another forum for Mustangs. AMS oil provides the most protection and the price reflects that. Kendall is hard to find, at least around here. Valvoline seems to be just about everywhere.

I hope this helps you out!!

PS:

The tick will never go away completely if the internals are wore. The heavier oil will quite the noise down and help reduce further wear however.

 

[Cipsow]

Hi there. Yesterday I bought Empire at War: Gold Edition which came with EaW and FoC. Empire at War works fine, but whenever I try to launch Forces of Corruption, I get this error and dont even get to any menu or anything.

Any help solving this problem would be greatly appreciated.