95 Bronco keeps stalling

[adtcadman]

95 EB Bronco, 5.8, 185,000 miles. Daily Driver

I'm stumped, Driving down the road the tach drops to zero, the engine light comes on and the engine shuts off? Some times it will start it self back up and some times I have to stop and then it will start??? When I stop sometimes it will start right back up and sometimes it will take 5 or 10 min.

It always starts cold.

After many searches, this is what I have found on another Bronco site

Here is what I have done so far

(yes I have Haynes)

replaced ignition module

replaced IAC

replaced fuel filter

1/2 can Sea foamed thru brake vacuum

full can Sea foam in tank

EGR Valve

EVS

Distributor cap

rotor cap

plugs (gapped @ .044)

plug wires

Coil

ignition module (under warranty)

Found ground wire on passenger side that was loose. fixed!

replaced EVS AGAIN!!!(got 327 code) electrical plug locked in place on this one!(under warranty)

Removed & replaced EVS & EGR to make sure down tube wasn't plugged, it

wasn't.

It is still doing the same thing???

When it dies, I can disconnect the negative side of the battery for a few min and it will start back up???

Any ideas?

 

[bidibronco]

Check the distributor. I had a nissan that did the same thing and it was that. Just put another one in and the problem was gone!

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Check the distributor. I had a nissan that did the same thing and it was that. Just put another one in and the problem was gone!

SeaBronc in another thread stated that a classic sign of a faulty pick up coil inside the distributor is that the engine shuts off (like someone reached over your shoulder and turned the key off) when it warms up.

In your Haynes manual, it says that a dirty air filter can be a cause for hard starting a warm engine.

I had an intermittent problem. The engine would stall, but usually start right up, (not always). It didn't throw any codes. Eventually it did throw a code 22 for MAP Sensor. I replaced it, and an extreemly dirty air filter. I suspect that the air filter was the real cause of the problem, but I couldn't get the cover off (that's a story in itself). Aparrently neither could/did the previous owners.

I am a little confused by your post... Did YOU replace all of those parts? OR did you show us what someone else had done to his truck?

joe

 

[adtcadman]

SeaBronc in another thread stated that a classic sign of a faulty pick up coil inside the distributor is that the engine shuts off (like someone reached over your shoulder and turned the key off) when it warms up.
In your Haynes manual, it says that a dirty air filter can be a cause for hard starting a warm engine.

I had an intermittent problem. The engine would stall, but usually start right up, (not always). It didn't throw any codes. Eventually it did throw a code 22 for MAP Sensor. I replaced it, and an extreemly dirty air filter. I suspect that the air filter was the real cause of the problem, but I couldn't get the cover off (that's a story in itself). Aparrently neither could/did the previous owners.

I am a little confused by your post... Did YOU replace all of those parts? OR did you show us what someone else had done to his truck?

joe

I replaced all those parts.

Also have replaced fuel filter & air filter.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

I replaced all those parts.Also have replaced fuel filter & air filter.

Seems to me that you are throwing a lot of parts at it. Perhaps you need to differenciate between is it a fuel problem, or a spark problem.

Next time it won't start, pull a plug wire, throw a spare plug into it, and ground it and have someone crank the engine to see if you are getting a spark. Stay clear of any moving parts!

If not...

SeaBronc in another thread stated that a classic sign of a faulty pick up coil inside the distributor is that the engine shuts off (like someone reached over your shoulder and turned the key off) when it warms up.

bidibronco Also suggests that it may be the distributor.

IF you are getting spark, then do a fuel pressure test. You can pick up a high pressure tester for $25-$40. The instructions for its use is in your Haynes manual.

joe

 

[adtcadman]

thanks Joe

 

[madmax]

could also be the fuel injectors, might be time to pull them and clean them with some carb cleaner.

 

[Ski]

If I could add my 2 cents, I had the same problem with my 96. It would just quit running, and then sometimes just start right up. After doing everything that you did, I found a loose wire. I dont know what its called but it sits just above and to the left (looking at the motor) of the fuel rail. Has 3 wires going into this black plug looking box. The middle one was working loose and when it got disconnected it would cause the motor to quit. I found it out of frustration and returning to the basics of troubleshooting wires, look for loose or broken wires. Sorry this is a little vague but it might help if someone reads it and knows what I am talking about LOL

 

[adtcadman]

If I could add my 2 cents, I had the same problem with my 96. It would just quit running, and then sometimes just start right up. After doing everything that you did, I found a loose wire. I dont know what its called but it sits just above and to the left (looking at the motor) of the fuel rail. Has 3 wires going into this black plug looking box. The middle one was working loose and when it got disconnected it would cause the motor to quit. I found it out of frustration and returning to the basics of troubleshooting wires, look for loose or broken wires. Sorry this is a little vague but it might help if someone reads it and knows what I am talking about LOL

Thanks, I'll and that the "To Do" list for Saturday (looks like it may run into Sunday)

 

[Broncobill78]

Unfortunately I don't have a specific recomendation. Might be useful to replace the entire distributor as an assembly, I've seen it cure odd problems before but to be honest most of the time when there's a stalling problem & the truck starts ok but then stalls out later but usually restarts it winds up being a *fuel* problem and not a spark problem. In the list of everything that's been replaced I don't see a fuel pump anywhere. I'd start looking more closely at the fuel system.

 

[adtcadman]

Unfortunately I don't have a specific recomendation. Might be useful to replace the entire distributor as an assembly, I've seen it cure odd problems before but to be honest most of the time when there's a stalling problem & the truck starts ok but then stalls out later but usually restarts it winds up being a *fuel* problem and not a spark problem. In the list of everything that's been replaced I don't see a fuel pump anywhere. I'd start looking more closely at the fuel system.

fuel pump replaced little over a year ago

fuel filter replaced 2 months ago

fuel pump relay 1 week ago

 

[bidibronco]

Would I be wrong by saying there is a magnetic thingy in the dizzy? I believe (sorry but i'm still just a dim bulb) that's what my problem was, that magnet thingy was broken and sometimes it would **** the car and it would start right up and sometimes it would sit there for hours before anything.