I just got an 84 FS bronco with a 351 that is a dog right now. Everything is stock under the hood and it is running 35's with a 6 inch lift. My question is what carb and intake combo is best for taking this thing off-road? I am planning on an ignition system and headers already so not sure how best to spend my money as I am on a budget. I am planning on using it for some regular daily driving as well.
Off Road Set-up
- Thread starter 84bronc
- Start date
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Welcome to Bronco Zone!!! I'd suggest a 4-barrel carb like the 600cfm Edelbrock 1406 (electric choke) or the 650cfm Holley truck Avenger off-road carb. I put an Edelbrock Performer intake on my 84 351W, and Weiand's stealth intake is great. Beware of your emissions regs, as these intakes come with or without provision for the EGR valve. If your Bronco has the C6 auto tranny, you'll also need the $50 kit for the kickdown rod linkage. Good luck, JSM84
Broncobill78
New member
You've already gotten some good advise. Run with it.
The 600/650cfm carb is a good one along with an intake & headers. You should be able to find package deals at any number of vendors. To *really* take advantake of the additional air & fuel that you'll be moving you really should consider a cam. The Carb, Intake, Cam & Headers package is pretty much the gold standard of engine upgrades.
Gearing will help a lot too. 4.10's or 4.56's would be my choice although some guys like the extra jump they get from a set of 4.88's but those will hurt your topend milage with 35's. Really depsnds on what you're going to be doin gwith it 51% of the time. If it's mainly a mudbog & trail truck then the 4.88's will fly but if you drive it back & forth to work then the 4.10/4.11 is probably the way to go. And if you're just not sure then split the difference with a set of 4.56's
The 600/650cfm carb is a good one along with an intake & headers. You should be able to find package deals at any number of vendors. To *really* take advantake of the additional air & fuel that you'll be moving you really should consider a cam. The Carb, Intake, Cam & Headers package is pretty much the gold standard of engine upgrades.
Gearing will help a lot too. 4.10's or 4.56's would be my choice although some guys like the extra jump they get from a set of 4.88's but those will hurt your topend milage with 35's. Really depsnds on what you're going to be doin gwith it 51% of the time. If it's mainly a mudbog & trail truck then the 4.88's will fly but if you drive it back & forth to work then the 4.10/4.11 is probably the way to go. And if you're just not sure then split the difference with a set of 4.56's
Seabronc
New member
Welcome to the Zone > . Post a picture or two when you get a chance, we'd like to :-B at them.
No matter what carb you get, make sure it is an off roading carb. A lot of carbs, like stock Holleys, don't function well on inclines due to the design of the fuel bowls.
Good luck,
>-
No matter what carb you get, make sure it is an off roading carb. A lot of carbs, like stock Holleys, don't function well on inclines due to the design of the fuel bowls.
Good luck,
>-I have an opportunity for a set of shorty headers off of an 82 mustang GT and was wondering if they would bolt on to my 351?
Also, a wierd issue started yesterday. I parked it and everything was working fine, this morning it had a dead battery and wouldn't start. No biggy, I charged it all day and tried it again, still nothing but a click of a cylenoid next to the battery. So then I tried to jump it off of another V8 and had the same non-responsive result. What could it be? Maybe the starter, or battery cable or ... Thanks.
Broncobill78
New member
Well if you're jumping it off another vehicle & still having the problem I'd start looking for a bad ground. How are the battery cable ends ? Green & crusty is not a good sign. Even if they look good externally you may have corrosion under the insulation. Also ck the ground to the engine/frame and the starter cable. When it's doing what yours is it's almost always a bad ground or poor connection somewhere along the line. You don't have to replace the cables as long as you have enough slack to remove the bad connectors and cut the cable back to good wire, then strip an inch or so & install new connectors.
