Ford Bronco 1971 Ignition problem

[joelhakes]

Hey All. I am excited and just bought a 1971 Ford Bronco. It has been sitting in California for 4 years and neighbor who I bought it from her in Indiana said it was running before it was truck lifted her to Indiana.

At first I replaced the starter solenoid and got the engine to crank. Also replaced the battery and both terminals. However, it was not getting spark to the coil. I took the lead off of the coil and cranked the engine, no spark. Tried again off of the distributor cap, again, no spark. I then bought a new coil. Again, same scenario. I then went and bought a new ballast resistor and again no spark to coil.

I used a light tester. Got power to the side of the resistor going to the coil but no power/light at the positive side of the coil.

I am at a lost for words. It is an old ignition switch. Only an ON side to the left, and turn on side to the right. When turning right, stays in the position and cranks the engine. There is no spring mechanism that I am used to with new cars. Only can test the power to resister when I am cranking the engine. Will not get any other way.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.

Joel

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi Joel, welcome..,

Sounds like you already isolated the prob.

1st., there's no spark at the + terminal on coil...just a steady 6+- volts, coming from the resistor.

Meaning the wire fr. the resistor goes to the + terminal on the coil & the distributor wire goes to the - (minus) terminal.

The hi tension wire in the coil center would have "spark" (during cranking) when pulled out of the dist. & moved next to ground.

"It is an old ignition switch. Only an ON side to the left, and turn on side to the right"

No., it's the same as current switches....counterclock is "accessory" ...... clockwise is 1st. notch "ON" (run) and complete twist clockwise is "START" --- AND., it should spring back to "ON/RUN position.

------------ This looks to be your "start" prob. (corrosion)------------

Here's what I'd do after setting that long..! (as you really don't want it to take off & run at length yet)

At auto store., get a can of "starting fluid" & a can of "non-explosive" elect. contact cleaner.

(un-hook bat.) Spray the cleaner in the keyhole & use airhose to blow it in & work the key. Not guaranteed but may loosen up the switch so as to function properly. (May need to repl. switch...cheap & easy)

Now., starting or even cranking an eng. that sat for 4 yrs. +- is not a good idea.

Changing the oil then removing the distrib. & using a "PRE-OILER" tool is the way to go.

But., one needs to know how to re-stab the distrib. & time the eng.

Then., you can test fire the eng. using a jumper wire fr. bat. + terminal to + on the coil. (assuming you didn't get the key switch to work)

Give a shot of starting fluid in carb. throat & then "crank eng.". Should it try to run., shut everything down & clean the fuel delivery system fr. tank to carb. ... Carb. is prob. full of yuck..!!! Poss. the tank is cruded up as well.

Dirty fuel sys., rotted hoses, etc. will give you nothing but trouble...

With clean oil & fuel., you can run it (eng.) up to temp. ----

Now., when time permits, move on to cooling system., brakes., & driveline inspection/maint.

Have fun with this project.., it should serve you well for many, many yrs.

Bob

 

[chase8266]

Hi Joel, welcome..,Sounds like you already isolated the prob.

1st., there's no spark at the + terminal on coil...just a steady 6+- volts, coming from the resistor.

Meaning the wire fr. the resistor goes to the + terminal on the coil & the distributor wire goes to the - (minus) terminal.

The hi tension wire in the coil center would have "spark" (during cranking) when pulled out of the dist. & moved next to ground.

"It is an old ignition switch. Only an ON side to the left, and turn on side to the right"

No., it's the same as current switches....counterclock is "accessory" ...... clockwise is 1st. notch "ON" (run) and complete twist clockwise is "START" --- AND., it should spring back to "ON/RUN position.

------------ This looks to be your "start" prob. (corrosion)------------

Here's what I'd do after setting that long..! (as you really don't want it to take off & run at length yet)

At auto store., get a can of "starting fluid" & a can of "non-explosive" elect. contact cleaner.

(un-hook bat.) Spray the cleaner in the keyhole & use airhose to blow it in & work the key. Not guaranteed but may loosen up the switch so as to function properly. (May need to repl. switch...cheap & easy)

Now., starting or even cranking an eng. that sat for 4 yrs. +- is not a good idea.

Changing the oil then removing the distrib. & using a "PRE-OILER" tool is the way to go.

But., one needs to know how to re-stab the distrib. & time the eng.

Then., you can test fire the eng. using a jumper wire fr. bat. + terminal to + on the coil. (assuming you didn't get the key switch to work)

Give a shot of starting fluid in carb. throat & then "crank eng.". Should it try to run., shut everything down & clean the fuel delivery system fr. tank to carb. ... Carb. is prob. full of yuck..!!! Poss. the tank is cruded up as well.

Dirty fuel sys., rotted hoses, etc. will give you nothing but trouble...

With clean oil & fuel., you can run it (eng.) up to temp. ----

Now., when time permits, move on to cooling system., brakes., & driveline inspection/maint.

Have fun with this project.., it should serve you well for many, many yrs.

Bob

I think your spark problem is with the distributer either magnetic pickup or the points,the 6 or 12 volt to the coil dosnt fire the coil the dist does,you mite have to replace it

 

[Bully Bob]

Good point chase..,

Some times I'm assuming.... i.e. assuming folks already checked the dizzy for function & points spark.