Year of 351w

[pitcherd]

I am running into problems figuring out what year my 351w is. I know that you can look at the number on the blck and that will help you determine what it came out of and then should help with the year. Where exactly am I looking for this number and once I find it how d I find out what year it is?

 

[Bully Bob]

Darryl..,

The number on my block is-----C6DE

The "C" is the decade...the "6" is the second digit of the year...i.e. it's a 1966 block.

The head is D3DE...meaning it's a 1973 head. (D3=73)

Those style of #'s will be on the orig. intake manifold & on the block below the head.., as I recall. (90% sure)

 

[Justshootme84]

Yes, the engine ID number is on the side of the block right below the head by the starter, which you often have to take off to view the number. Also, look for any other ID tags from an engine shop if the motor is a reman or rebuilt unit. I ran into that problem on the 66 Mustang, JSM84

 

[pitcherd]

Ok i looked under the started and located some letters in this order EOAE then under that it read D3C. Can anyone tell me anything about that and if that is the correct place to look?

Thanks

OK I read a little closer and what I think I am reading is that it is a 1976 and I would assume that the "C" at the end means that it came from some sort of a car. The heads I am unsure of.

One more thing I have figured out that I have a Dana 44 front end but I cannot find any numbers on the rear end any where.. The only number I found was a 17 off the pumpkin towards the drive shaft. Nothing else.

 

[Justshootme84]

Here's a link to a couple casting number sites:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/302110-s...-6-10-06-a.html

The code "E0AE" would decipher as a 1980. Galaxie engine. Read thru some of those links then re-check those numbers. I had to look several times with a good light and thorough cleaning to decode the numbers off my 66 Mustang block.

As for the rear axle, you can ID it as a Ford 9" if the rear of the housing is welded, or has no bolts on the cover plate. The whole pumpkin will come out thru the front side, and the ID tag should be bolted to one of the outer bolts there. JSM84

 

[pitcherd]

Thanks for the help> I am on the way to figuring out alot about my bronco. Unfortunatley it did not come with instructions so it is feel my way through it. First thing is to figure out what parts and pieces I have then I can work from there.

 

[Justshootme84]

That's what I do with a new project, too. Since the early bronco and pony mustang are like brother and sister, so alot of the parts are similar. Also, If you have trouble finding something for the bronco and can't find it on this forum, that site (Ford truck Enthusiasts) has some good info on engines. good luck, JSM84

 

[Bully Bob]

Darryl..,

--"I cannot find any numbers on the rear end any where.. "--

It's highly un-likely anyone changed the rear axle...but stranger things have happened.!

On the Ford 9" you'll find 3 ribs on the pumpkin runn'n horiz. & 1 rib runn'n fr. top down toward dr. shaft.

There's a ring of 10 bolts & a smaller ring of 5 bolts.

Wondering.., is it the gear ratio you're actually looking for..!

 

[pitcherd]

Yeah that is alos a wonder and I know that I will have to tear the thing apart for those answers. My mine thoughts now though are tying to figure things out so when I buy parts I know what will fit and what won't. It is not like you can just go and buy pats for a 73' bronco and they fit after everything has been changed, but it is fun so far. Maybe I can get some pictures together this week so you guys can see it where it sits now. I am not trying to make it a show truck I just want it to be fairly good looking and still able to take to the woods for some fun. I have plenty of street toys.

 

[Bully Bob]

"....and I know that I will have to tear the thing apart for those answers."

Naw.... (there's more info. you could put in your sig. page for more accurate help) If it's an Auto trans., it prob. 350 gears. If it's a stick., it's prob. 411's.

It's simple.., you rotate the rear wheel (jacked up) & count the dr. shaft rotations. That will give you the ratio.

 

[pitcherd]

It is manual three speed that has been moved to the floor. The gears are not my main concerns right now. I am trying to figure out what parts are there. I am trying to make a decision if I want to buy a stainless front windshield instead of oem style. My front windshield is in bad shape. It is coming apart from the piano hindge and has some old rust. Just alot of money. Trying to make a priorty list and it is hard when everything cost $1000 dollars. Guess I have to work more hours..LOL Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Justshootme84]

IF you get a free catalog from some of the vendors like Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, Tom's Bronco Parts, and James Duff, they have some sections in there explaining how to ID ceretain types of parts. An example is the small bearing or large bearing Ford 9" rear axle. You'll also get an idea of how expensive NOS (new order stock) parts are compared to repop (reproduction) or aftermarket copies. I used to get a copy of one of those with some of the issues of "Bronco Driver" magazine, too. JSM84

 

[BKW]

9" Rear Axle:

The Ford ID tag originally was at roughly 5 o'clock under one of the bolts that holds the carrier (pumpkin) to the axle housing.

Many of these tags are now missing.

The AXLE code is on the 2nd line of the Warranty Plate-far right.

The Warranty Plate is located on the left inner cowl panel.

I can decode the AXLE code for you, and any other codes that are listed on the Plate.

EOAE = Block casting prefix for a 1980 and later LTD/Crown Vic (no Galaxies after 1974).

The date code of D3C translates to: the third week © of April (D), 1983 (3).

btw: Engine bare block casting numbers cannot be cross referenced to actual Ford part numbers.