Replacing Front Axle 4x4 U-joints On '83

[jslebod1]

Well, my '83 full size has a noticeable pop on occasion when steering. Now, after I take a hard left or right turn(to the locks) and then come back on center, the truck tends to still bias whatever direction I just came out of. I had a garage take a look at front underbody, ball joints, etc... to see if anything stuck out. His suggestion was the front 4x4 axle u-joints were beginning to seize up, at least 1 if not both. I've heard this a pretty common failure on these trucks as well. Does anybody know if there is a good link to a "How to" article on replacing these, maybe somebody took some pics? The Chilton isn't very detailed and they never cover all the tricks...thanks for help!

 

[Broncoholics]

Its easier than you think. Take off the brakes, pull the hubs by pulling the outer retainer ring clip that holds the hub in, there might even be a center clip on the axle too. then using a special socket sold at all part stores undoes the large nuts that hold the bearings in. Once the first nut is out there is a middle retainer ring that has to be pulled out by hand to get to the second nut. This ring is what keeps the second nut from backing off. Once both nuts are off, the rotor/ hub comes off. Then unbolt the spindle and the axle shaft can be pulled out. Put the axle on the bench and take out the c-clips that hold the u-joints in with a ***** driver. Then with a hammer, vice or press use a small socket to push with (smaller than cap) and a larger socket on the other side for support and allow the cap to pass thru. Put the new u-joint in and put it all back together. The first bearing nut is not even hand tight. Its just slight snug, turn the rotor back and forth and feel for it. Feel to see if it wobbles up and down, if it feels good add the retainer ring by matching up the holes with the pin on the inner nut.

You might need to back off or tighten the nut slightly for the ring to fit. Then add the last nut and tighten to 100# or as tight as you can, you don't want it to come off. The reinstall the hubs. Done :wacko:

 

[Seabronc]

Actually the torque on those nuts should be 50 ft. lb on the inner one then back off untill the pin drops in the first available hole in the lock washer and then tighten the outer nut to 150 ft. lb. The reason for the 50ft lb. is to make sure the bearings are in the proper place. backing off to the first available hole in the lock washer will keep the bearings within tolerance and tightening to 150 ft. lb will prevent the other two from comming off.

If you absolutely can't get a torque wrench Broncoholics method will work. He is right, getting that much torque is hard to do while also keeping the spindle wrench locked into the nuts. I can just barely hand torque with my wrench to 150 ft. lb. , maybe I need a bigger wrench /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Good luck,

>-

 

[Broncoholics]

yeah, I just get out the cheater pipe and cranker down! I found the impact gun will take it off easier after its that tight and tough to hang onto but never use a impact to tighten them down... :lol: